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Selling my 2011 RTS any advice Craigs List

mdblege

mdblege

New member
I posted this back in November 4 Sale by Owner, got no replies or emails now I think I am going to try Craigslist.
Any advice?
2011 RTS for sale 2011RTS-SE5 Orbital Blue, purchased new in April 2011. All services performed. Currentlyhas 25,500. CBcommunication package. Adjustable lower wind deflectors. With a few spare partsand a never used travel cover. Bike is located inBeaumont, TX.In excellentcondition always garaged. NADA average retail $14,137 Asking $13,000.00and if interested contact Mike. My wife can no longer ride with me.
 
Take a good long hard look at your price. My observation has been that for whatever reason NADA pricing is overly optimistic. I sold my 2013 base RT with 25,000 miles last March for $11,500. I started at $13,000 with ads in Arizona, California, and Texas and struck out. At the 11,500 price I sold it locally within about 4 weeks. I bought my 2014 RTS with only 654 miles on it from m/c dealer, not Can Am, for $18,000 in Dec 2015.

Some folks get very defensive when I've suggested they're asking too much. One such seller is apparently still sitting on his bike and he started advertising it for sale last August. If it was priced right he wouldn't still have it. A bike should sell in couple of months if priced right.

A bit of advice from my local Goldwing dealer when I was getting ready to sell my 2005 Goldwing back in the spring of 2014. He said don't ask too much expecting to be able to come down. If the price is too high no one will even express enough interest to give you the chance to come down. If the price is attractively low a buyer will jump on it and not push hard to go further down. If a bike is on a lot for more than 6 weeks it starts to become unsaleable. If people see it on the lot that long, and they have looked at it, they figure the price is too high and the seller isn't coming down. The same applies to Craigslist ads. Run the ad for awhile, and if it doesn't sell take the ad down. Then repost it a week or two later. Makes it look like a new ad.

Post lots of photos and be honest about any blemishes. If you're up front about scratches, etc., people will overlook them. Make the description as complete as possible. If the looker is serious he'll bite quicker if he doesn't have to dig out a lot of info from you by phone or email.

Look on craigslist nationally and check the price and posting date. If you see bikes at about the same price as you're asking, and they've been there for a couple of months, that should tell you something. Do a Google search for 2011 Spyder RT site:craigslist.org.
 
IdahoMtnSpyder said:
Take a good long hard look at your price. My observation has been that for whatever reason NADA pricing is overly optimistic. I sold my 2013 base RT with 25,000 miles last March for $11,500. I started at $13,000 with ads in Arizona, California, and Texas and struck out. At the 11,500 price I sold it locally within about 4 weeks. I bought my 2014 RTS with only 654 miles on it from m/c dealer, not Can Am, for $18,000 in Dec 2015.

Some folks get very defensive when I've suggested they're asking too much. One such seller is apparently still sitting on his bike and he started advertising it for sale last August. If it was priced right he wouldn't still have it. A bike should sell in couple of months if priced right.

A bit of advice from my local Goldwing dealer when I was getting ready to sell my 2005 Goldwing back in the spring of 2014. He said don't ask too much expecting to be able to come down. If the price is too high no one will even express enough interest to give you the chance to come down. If the price is attractively low a buyer will jump on it and not push hard to go further down. If a bike is on a lot for more than 6 weeks it starts to become unsaleable. If people see it on the lot that long, and they have looked at it, they figure the price is too high and the seller isn't coming down. The same applies to Craigslist ads. Run the ad for awhile, and if it doesn't sell take the ad down. Then repost it a week or two later. Makes it look like a new ad.

Post lots of photos and be honest about any blemishes. If you're up front about scratches, etc., people will overlook them. Make the description as complete as possible. If the looker is serious he'll bite quicker if he doesn't have to dig out a lot of info from you by phone or email.

Look on craigslist nationally and check the price and posting date. If you see bikes at about the same price as you're asking, and they've been there for a couple of months, that should tell you something. Do a Google search for 2011 Spyder RT site:craigslist.org.
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:agree: 100%.

The NADA and KBB books are simply unrealistic. I got $10K for my 2012 RT as a trade.
It should be noted that add-on's and extras don't increase the sale price at all... so you might as well strip it down and sell the goodies out here.. can usually get 50% of what you paid for them.

Another reason the trade-ins and 2nd hand sales are priced low is all the deals they have on new ones. You can still buy brand new 2015's out there for great deals... which hurts used sales.
 
You might also check with a local dealer and see if he will sell on consignment. That takes the hassle off you. Downside is you don't have it to ride while it is there.
 
I've had a lot of luck with C/L. I like to put myself in the buyer's shoes and ask myself what I would wanna know about the item. So, I take a ton of pics, and list everything I can about the item....just ask yourself, "what would I ask the seller?" Has worked well for me
 
All great advice. In addition, think about how you're going to let potential buyers test ride your machine. Many of them may have never seen a Spyder in the flesh before drooling over yours, and we all know the horror stories of first-ride wrecks even by seasoned 2-wheel jockeys.

Also, decide how you're going to accept payment. E.g., I learned years ago that a certified check can be just as risky to receive as a regular one; told to me by my bank as I deposited a $1500 certified check for a saddle I sold via eBay. She advised me not to ship my saddle until the check cleared; suggesting that I stop in or call in 3 days or so to make sure it had.

Good luck with your sale!
 
ruralgirl said:
Also, decide how you're going to accept payment. E.g., I learned years ago that a certified check can be just as risky to receive as a regular one; told to me by my bank as I deposited a $1500 certified check for a saddle I sold via eBay. She advised me not to ship my saddle until the check cleared; suggesting that I stop in or call in 3 days or so to make sure it had.
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A cashier's check is a good way to go, unless you're afraid the bank will go bust before the check clears! :gaah: A cashier's check is a bank check and won't be issued unless the payor has transferred money to the bank to cover it. But you will want to verify it is good right away to avoid getting scammed by a counterfeit one.
 
Selling My 2010 Can Am Premiere Edition RT-S

I'm also having a heck of a time Selling mine! I have 30,600 miles on mine and have it listed for $11,500. I was selling for 13 as I bought it last year for 14.. With 30k miles on it.. Love this bike so much but forced to sell. Best bike I've ever owned!
 
I just sold my Victory on CL as others have stated lots of pictures help, you will get scammers as well. I think what helped me was I asked a fair price, had all my slips for service and add ones (all though they may or may jot increase the value). I was honest about the bike about the pro's and cons of it. Everytime I got a post I would reply back to it through CL and if they replied back I would ask for a name. I've been lucky selling on CL but you do get nervous having someone come to your house to see the bike, I sold mine over the winter. Good luck on your sale.
 
Thanks

Thanks for all the suggestions and warning’s about scammers.
I guess I will lowerthe asking price to $ 11,000 and see what happens.
I really hate to sell the bike and it is in excellent condition.

 
mdblege said:
Thanks for all the suggestions and warning’s about scammers.
I guess I will lowerthe asking price to $ 11,000 and see what happens.
I really hate to sell the bike and it is in excellent condition.

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One more caution. Here in CT police departments encourage you to use their parking lots when dealing with Craigs List customers. I have done so. I arrive early and let the dispatchers know i will be meeting someone in the parking lot. Never had a problem. Good luck.
 
IMHO it's a cash only kinda thing. If you have the money to buy, go to the bank before you come to me. Banks give out cash all day long and @10k isn't really that much. Public meeting places, etc.👍

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IdahoMtnSpyder said:
A cashier's check is a good way to go, unless you're afraid the bank will go bust before the check clears! :gaah: A cashier's check is a bank check and won't be issued unless the payor has transferred money to the bank to cover it. But you will want to verify it is good right away to avoid getting scammed by a counterfeit one.
Click to expand...

My banker's explanation that day was along the lines of, if there's more than one name on an account, usually husband/wife, it's rare but possible that both parties have made withdrawals within a short time of each other, probably without the other one knowing it yet. IOW, there can be situations where the money isn't actually there at the moment the cashiers check is being verified for issue.

BTW, I just saw an ad that this coming Sunday night on the REELZ network, the episode of Murder Made Me Famous will be about the Craigslist serial killer!
 
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Craigslist is sketchy for sure. If I'm buying used I'd rather buy from a seasoned forum member. While not perfect, it does allow you the ability to do a bit of homework and search the forum reading all the sellers previous posts.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
 
My experience ( vey limited) has been a dead zone on vehicle sales till tax returns. Then all goes nuts ?
 
ruralgirl said:
My banker's explanation that day was along the lines of, if there's more than one name on an account, usually husband/wife, it's rare but possible that both parties have made withdrawals within a short time of each other, probably without the other one knowing it yet. IOW, there can be situations where the money isn't actually there at the moment the cashiers check is being verified for issue.
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I don't think that's going to happen. The bank isn't going to issue the cashier's check unless the money is not only just available in the payor's account, but actually transferred to the bank. Bank transactions are very quick anymore. No such thing as 'floating a check' like we used to be able to do years ago!

Certified checks are not any more trusty than personal checks. The only real risk with cashier's checks is they might be forged, but you run the risk of counterfeit greenbacks if you insist on cash. I would guess that both cash and cashier's checks are going to be something like 99.99999 risk free!
 
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Cash Only at My Bank- Money verified by Bank machine and the Title is signed over to you- Plate Taken Off and its Yours!! Bank has cameras!
 
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