SE5 Transmission question

[03hdjill]

I have a 2013 ST Limited. I have been shifting based on recommended higher RPMs. ( I have also been downshifting).....I have always downshifted much more than using brakes a lot. My question is why does the semi automatic transmission downshift at such low RPMs if the Rotax engine likes the higher RPMs?

 

[Bob Denman]

BRP engineers must have figured that since there's no real load on the drivetrain while coasting down; it'd be okay to let the rpms drop to that level... :dontknow:

 

[NancysToy]

In my opinion the auto downshifting is just meant to be a backup. I think BRP fully intended for the Spyder to be electricall shifted by the rider, both up and down. If the rider fails to do so, however, the engine could stall if the rpm dropped too low, so there was a need for a backup. If they had wanted it to shift automatically, at the optimum shift points, they would have made it shift automatically in both directions. The ide of an electric shift is to make it easier to shift and to eliminate the clutch, not to provide a fully automatic transmission. JMHO

 

[Bob Denman]

Wasn't there a recent update to the shifting protocals?
If you get on the throttle when the rpms are too low; the bike will now downshift? :dontknow:

 

[kepople]

Not trying to hijack the thread, but:
I read the thread about shifting.
Just curious who is following the shifting at 5000rpm philosophy?

Also where are you down shifting?
I seem to downshift higher and use the engine to slow. Don't know if its hard on the tranny or not though...

 

[revjvegas]

Being a BMW F650 rider, I'm already conditioned to the Rotax's high RPM shift point so its never really been an issue for me.

And like NT said, I think the downshift is meant to be a backup. No reason not to continue to use good riding technique and use downshifting to help decelerate.

 

[Bob Denman]

Just curious who is following the shifting at 5000rpm philosophy?

The idea behind shifting at or above 5,000rpm is to keep your engine at or above 4,000 rpm; the point at which the clutches are fully engaged.
Putting a load on them below that rpm level might allow for slippage, overheating, and... :yikes:

 

[NancysToy]

The idea behind shifting at or above 5,000rpm is to keep your engine at or above 4,000 rpm; the point at which the clutches are fully engaged.
Putting a load on them below that rpm level might allow for slippage, overheating, and... :yikes:

This seems to be escalating. The clutch fully engages at 3,200 +/- 200. Allowing for about a 1,000 rpm drop between gears, that means up-shifting at 4,500 or above is adviseable. Similarly, downshifting by 3,500 or more will keep you in the powerband. I think we also have to stress that these are the minimums...more is perfectly acceptable.

 

[daveinva]

Very rarely will I let the Spyder downshift for me. Yeah, I know it *can*, but I like the control and safety of knowing which gear I'm in at any one time, and knowing that if for some reason I need to accelerate out of a jam ("Hey, look at that guy in my rear view mirror, he's not slowing down! :yikes, I'm always in the gear that best allows me to roll on the throttle and scoot out of the way.

 

[Bob Denman]

I started with the 3500 rpm guideline...
Then I spent some time speaking with BRP reps; they said to use 4,000 rpm. :shocked:
:dontknow: So in order to be safe... :dontknow: 4,000 rpm it is!

 

[my3gs]

I have always shifted at 5300-5600 in about every gear. We ride at 5000 most all the time. It shifts good an u always have good responce at this rpm.

 

[Cruzr Joe]

This seems to be escalating. The clutch fully engages at 3,200 +/- 200. Allowing for about a 1,000 rpm drop between gears, that means up-shifting at 4,500 or above is adviseable. Similarly, downshifting by 3,500 or more will keep you in the powerband. I think we also have to stress that these are the minimums...more is perfectly acceptable.

Thanks for the clarification on the 3200 +/- 200 it seems that this number gets escalated at times and i was afraid it might reach 6800 +/- 5000 very soon. :thumbup:

Cruzr joe

 

[Jeriatric]

Auto Shift

To my thinking (and I did not start off this way - it's learned). The auto downshift is a 'fail safe' and does not keep you at an optimal RPM. It simply keeps the clutch in the lower end of it's designed operating RPM.

ROTAX RPM's and the SE5 transmission

Consider the recommended valve check 'language'.

14,000 mile valve check - more often if RPM's are above 6K 10% of the time.

That's 1,400 miles above 6K in 14,000 miles - Possible by some, not likely by most.

The ROTAX engine likes to spin.

Keep it serviced and it'll keep you happy.

I downshift at 4K and stay at or above 5200 when maintaining a given speed. (closer to 6K when climbing)

Listen to an feel the ROTAX. It will tell you when it is 'happy'.

tol

 

[Bob Denman]

Mine seems happy enough in the 4,000 to 5,000 rpm range that I'm not going to upset the applecart with any more changes...

 

[Jeriatric]

I started with the 3500 rpm guideline...
Then I spent some time speaking with BRP reps; they said to use 4,000 rpm. :shocked:
:dontknow: So in order to be safe... :dontknow: 4,000 rpm it is!

Very close to the number BRP's tech's recommended when I asked in Durango. (3750 was their number - to keep it simple I made it 4K - call it insurance)

That information met a lot of resistance when passed along here tho - oh well. 2 each his own.

:thumbup:

 

[Green RSS]

I try to shift up at 4500 RPM. I also downshift to try and keep the engine above 3000 - 3500 RPM when stopping.

 

[Jeriatric]

I try to shift up at 4500 RPM. I also downshift to try and keep the engine above 3000 - 3500 RPM when stopping.

If you have an SE5 you need to raise the shift points. Doing what you're doing now is to low in the RPM band and it will end up costing you big time. fwiw

 

[Bob Denman]

Very close to the number BRP's tech's recommended when I asked in Durango. (3750 was their number - to keep it simple I made it 4K - call it insurance)

That information met a lot of resistance when passed along here tho - oh well. 2 each his own.

:thumbup:

I was one of those that resisted loud and long... pps:

Now I'm a believer! :thumbup:

 

[MidLifeCrisis]

I try to shift up at 4500 RPM. I also downshift to try and keep the engine above 3000 - 3500 RPM when stopping.

My RT won't run at that range. It really struggles. HP, torque and weight is definitely different on the RS, but I'm with Jer, keeping that range up will likely cost you big $$$.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[mclaw44]

Confused

I'm just a little confuesed here. I know I'm not shifting at the right points or even close with my new RT-L so the shift point should be:

UP at 4000 RPM
and down WHEN? 3500

Sorry the stupid stupid side of my brain has checked in today and needs help! THANKS