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SE5 not shifting

My bike has less than 1000 miles, and just had its 500 mile service. It is having the explained problem as well so I did this grounding solution which did not help. The problem has gotten worse in the last 50 miles now missing down shifts,keeping RPMs up, and screwing up as above. I plan to take to dealer Tue. I have read the tech book over, and believe it is a bad gear box sensor. The TPS, and the GBPS have a lot to do with this also so this is where I stand. I need to obtain the BUD dia tool for my laptop to look at this stuff my self as well.

I wish the tech guide had a adjustment procedure for various sensors that did not require a PC. I wish it would be based on voltage that could be monitored with a DMM.


Did you have the problem before the service?
 
My bike has less than 1000 miles, and just had its 500 mile service. It is having the explained problem as well so I did this grounding solution which did not help. The problem has gotten worse in the last 50 miles now missing down shifts,keeping RPMs up, and screwing up as above. I plan to take to dealer Tue. I have read the tech book over, and believe it is a bad gear box sensor. The TPS, and the GBPS have a lot to do with this also so this is where I stand. I need to obtain the BUD dia tool for my laptop to look at this stuff my self as well.

I wish the tech guide had a adjustment procedure for various sensors that did not require a PC. I wish it would be based on voltage that could be monitored with a DMM.

If the cause is a generation one Gearbox Position Sensor (the solder problem, which can cause intermittent steering issues, idle problems and long-time-to-warm-up), it does not leave error codes. There is no telling what else is affected on an SE.

Because a bad GPS apparently does not leave error codes, it is difficult to diagnose. The only real way to test it, is to replace the sensor. My dealer has replaced upwards of eight, not including mine.

See my experiences here:
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7831

BTW, to my knowledge, no one has yet successfully hi-jacked a copy of the BUDDS software and penetrated the BRP network (which would be illegal, BTW).
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I am become uncomfortable after reading others problems, and want a road side repair

I thought German engineering was the best so when I purchased it I felt comfortable. Now 1000 mile later, and reading the bs I want to enjoy my purchase and have the ability to find a solution to my problem with out being **** up a creek. The BUDs would do that for me. If Can Am wants to keep tech software under lock then they will need to provide same day repair service on the spot. If not I will start my campaign to get ride of my Spyder by pushing my States lemon law of three strikes, and I get my money back rule. I did that with a Jeeps paint job one time so I know that system.
I really want is a enjoyable purchase, were I feel comfortable not having to have a wrecker follow me around to recovery me, and deliver me to a dealer. Then have to wait a week to get repairs as I purchase air line tickets to get home, and then fly back to pick my bike up. FTS life is to short for games that last so I will push the button now, and get strike number one out of the way. If it is not fixed then go for strike two, and the strike three to get my $17,000 back.

Can am would be better to sell me a $400 software package then have me wrap the independent dealer network who could give a dam.
 
Bow Cycle from Calgary delivered my SE5 back to me on Saturday after having it for two weeks they fixed the locking up in gear problem by running ground wires. Ive ridden it for 3 days now without any problems, fingers crossed this is the end of the nightmare. They replaced my squeaky brakes as well but the new brakes still squeak ????. Thaks to BJ from Bow Cycle, I know he went the extra mile for me.
 
I thought German engineering was the best so when I purchased it I felt comfortable. Now 1000 mile later, and reading the bs I want to enjoy my purchase and have the ability to find a solution to my problem with out being **** up a creek. The BUDs would do that for me. If Can Am wants to keep tech software under lock then they will need to provide same day repair service on the spot. If not I will start my campaign to get ride of my Spyder by pushing my States lemon law of three strikes, and I get my money back rule. I did that with a Jeeps paint job one time so I know that system.
I really want is a enjoyable purchase, were I feel comfortable not having to have a wrecker follow me around to recovery me, and deliver me to a dealer. Then have to wait a week to get repairs as I purchase air line tickets to get home, and then fly back to pick my bike up. FTS life is to short for games that last so I will push the button now, and get strike number one out of the way. If it is not fixed then go for strike two, and the strike three to get my $17,000 back.

Can am would be better to sell me a $400 software package then have me wrap the independent dealer network who could give a dam.

I really don't understand some of the stuff you have written, so I won't go there. If you are not willing to give your dealer a chance to correct your issues, then you will create a worse problem. I don't know of any company willing to give or sell you their computer programs to solve problems. Most people would have no idea how to go about the program. So I don't know where you are leading to. If you want to have a wrecker follow you, get one on retainer, but leave BRP out of it. I don't know of anything made by man that doesn't break, so chill. If you want to go to court, have at it. Doing that doesn't impress most of us...the Spyder is a new machine and most of us are willing to be patient to help make it a better machine by getting ours fixed and learning as we go, and sharing our experiences with others. And for your information, the Spyder is made in Canada, not Germany. Get your facts. The VSS system is German, and as with anything electrical, it does not warn you when it wants to go bad. That's a chance we all take with anything we buy.
 
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My bike has less than 1000 miles, and just had its 500 mile service. It is having the explained problem as well so I did this grounding solution which did not help. The problem has gotten worse in the last 50 miles now missing down shifts,keeping RPMs up, and screwing up as above. I plan to take to dealer Tue. I have read the tech book over, and believe it is a bad gear box sensor. The TPS, and the GBPS have a lot to do with this also so this is where I stand. I need to obtain the BUD dia tool for my laptop to look at this stuff my self as well.

I wish the tech guide had a adjustment procedure for various sensors that did not require a PC. I wish it would be based on voltage that could be monitored with a DMM.

I am expressing my objections to your abbreviations for vulgarity and your **** use in your other posts. If you can't post in any other manner, please stay off the Forum.
 
LAMONSTER - Earlier in this thread you asked why run TWO ground wires, since ground is ground. Those of us who did the mod ourselves or had a dealer do it used two wires because that's exactly what BRP says to do and we want our Sypders fixed. But its a really good question! BRP...if you are reading these forums, why TWO ground wires to the same point on the coil?
 
LAMONSTER - Earlier in this thread you asked why run TWO ground wires, since ground is ground. Those of us who did the mod ourselves or had a dealer do it used two wires because that's exactly what BRP says to do and we want our Sypders fixed. But its a really good question! BRP...if you are reading these forums, why TWO ground wires to the same point on the coil?

When I talked to one of my BRP contacts he never mentioned a second ground wire, only the 27" one. This was before it was a official service bulletin.
 
LAMONSTER - Earlier in this thread you asked why run TWO ground wires, since ground is ground. Those of us who did the mod ourselves or had a dealer do it used two wires because that's exactly what BRP says to do and we want our Sypders fixed. But its a really good question! BRP...if you are reading these forums, why TWO ground wires to the same point on the coil?

When I talked to one of my BRP contacts he never mentioned a second ground wire, only the 27" one. This was before it was a official service bulletin.

Could be they decided to get the ground to the ignition coil bracket and, from there, to get ground to the oil cooler mount. That way you use only about 30 inches of wire instead of 50 inches of wire. :dontknow:
 
And then another 30 inches to get to the oil cooler mount from the ground lug. I am just guessing that someone at BRP decided they should also ground the oil cooler mount directly to the frame for some reason. Hence they said, "Lets just add a second 4" wire from the ignition coil ground wire we'll tell them to run to catch the oil cooler mount also." Maybe they decided they weren't getting a good enough ground there through paint, powdercoat, thread locker, etc. :dontknow: No telling unless the engineers or mechanics at BRP tell us why. Sometimes people do a shotgun approach to fixing things, especially if its hard to understand or track down exactly what's happening or why. Thats the way some things get fixed at my workplace. I'm sure its the same everywhere.
 
GM, Ford, Toyota, Harley, Triumph, ect. sell a diagnostic tool why not Can AM?

Every other company retails a scanner. Why does CAN AM/ BRP not offer this. I wish I would have known when I purchased this spyder that I would just be borrowing from the dealer, and not owning it.:lecturef_smilie:
 
Every other company retails a scanner. Why does CAN AM/ BRP not offer this. I wish I would have known when I purchased this spyder that I would just be borrowing from the dealer, and not owning it.:lecturef_smilie:
Isnt there a way to read the codes on the speedo display?
 
I think the oil cooler is mounted in rubber isolators (not a good ground). Vehicles electronic control components are being made to function at the milli volt level. Electronic noise from a component like the coil function at the k volt level. This is a big descrepency. The need for good clean grounds is imperative in any electronic controled vehicle. Ground it to the frame where you are comfortable with. It is a pain to get to the frame ground bolt. Do yourself a favor and Just ground it.
 
Here are some pics.
First pic shows the ground wires at the coil pack, and the wire to the oil cooler mount. Remember to clear the paint off of the oil tank for a good ground.

Second pic shows the chassis ground. There are 3 wires to it and there is also a star ground washer. It is at the frame member that the steering column passes through.

Third pic is a better side view of the chassis ground. run the wire to the frame and through the existing wire ties along the frame. Be mindful of the exhaust, keep the wires away.

Thanks! very much appreciated.:thumbup:
 
Thanks! very much appreciated.:thumbup:

Ditto to all who chimed in on this thread. I love my Spyder, and I am Glad That BRP is at least addressing these issues. To the guy who wants a lemon law suit.

I can understand your frustration with the issues with your new purchase. But that is what warranties are for. You could own a harley and have to work on it everyday to keep the oil leaks at bay!!!

:yikes::yikes: To all harley owners.. I love you man!!:cheers:
 
Why two gorund wires...?

When I talked to one of my BRP contacts he never mentioned a second ground wire, only the 27" one. This was before it was a official service bulletin.

I have installed a home-made ground wire from the coils to the oil radiator mount bolt.

Do I really need to install the second one to the grounding lug on the frame?

My 2009 SE5 so far (+/- 450 miles) hasn't stuck in any gear, but when started in the mornings, and after backing out of my garage, it takes some fiddling to get it to go into first gear, and sometimes it even shows an 'E' reading in the dash.

This is not repeated after being warmed up / ridden for some time.

Suggestions? :dontknow:
 
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