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Screen lit up with Ign, then went blank with start - HELP PLEASE?!

OK all, what SIZE battery do I have and what should I be looking for? and where? HELP as I can't find one, Walmart may have one but there is no CCA info on their batteries.


" OK all, what SIZE battery do I have and what should I be looking for?"


Something like the photo in post #4 should do the job.

Isn't that your post?

Swap it like for like.

Follow the set up instructions.

Bin a trickle charger and get a "smart" type charger.

Over to you.
 
So, just to be clear, a Battery Tender is a "proper" charger/maintainer as opposed to one that doesn't stop charging when the battery is fully charged?
I believe all "Battery Tender" brand units are maintainers. Battery tender tends to be used as a generic reference to any small charger/maintainer. There are several brands such as NAPA, Schumacher, Die Hard, and others who offer a charger/maintainer. Just make sure the unit is clearly marked as a maintainer.
 
" OK all, what SIZE battery do I have and what should I be looking for?"


Something like the photo in post #4 should do the job.

Isn't that your post?

Swap it like for like.

Follow the set up instructions.

Bin a trickle charger and get a "smart" type charger.

Over to you.

What is the size? as I can't find this one anywhere? as I want to go pick up at a store. This one says "YTX24HL 350 CCA" ?????
 
Is it ok to remove the battery from the bike for some time so I can take it with me shopping for a new one?
 
Is it ok to remove the battery from the bike for some time so I can take it with me shopping for a new one?

Yep. :thumbup:

Little trick to that tho. When you are down there trying to get it out, there's a little lip at the front of the tray that you need to lift it up onto before it'll start to slide forward & out. You hafta tilt the battery juuust a little as you lift it maybe 1/2 an inch to slide it out. :2thumbs:

Oh, and when you put the new one back, check to make sure that:

  1. The terminals are clean & tightly connected - ideally, with star washers in there to ensure a good connection that won't work loose over time/vibrations;
  2. You don't push the battery back onto one of the dangling cables, they can fall down between the back plate & the battery as you slide it in, making it impossible to push it in far enough to secure;
  3. You need to keep the movement of the cables to a minimum, cos moving them around too much can loosen the 'other end' of the cables, making for a less than adequate connection resulting in poor charging &/or DPS (electric Dynamic Power Steering) issues or more! BRP usually put SO MUCH yellow Locktite goop onto bolts/screws everywhere, but somehow, still the bloody earth to frame connection deep behind the battery & alongside the DPS can come loose if you move those cables around enough!! So go on, ask me how I know this bleedin' well happens, and as a result the battery can get a 'less than adequate' charge &/or the DPS can start acting up at the worst time possible, making you think that VERY expensive part has failed! :banghead:

Good Luck! :cheers:

Ps: Getting a battery with LESS than 350 CCA can be a real issue, so if Walmart don't specify that somewhere on/for theirs & can't tell you, then it might be better to go elsewhere to get a new battery! :banghead: It won't hurt if you get a higher than 350 CCA battery, just so long as it fits in the hole (check that the metal strap that goes over the top will fit too, or that you can flatten out a tab or two on it to make it fit! Maybe take that metal strap with you, but DON'T lose it! :rolleyes: ) In fact, it might be better for you in the long run to get a slightly higher CCA battery (I think my current battery is 480 CCA or something higher?! :dontknow: ); but you do need to make sure that whatever it is, YOU need to ensure that any new battery you install gets a good 8 hours of charge on a battery charger/maintainer (Smart Charger) BEFORE you install it; and unless you seriously trust the retailer to have done that for you (did they make you wait 8+ hours before picking it up?! :rolleyes: ) then don't believe them if/when they say you don't need to do that - all that does is bring them more business sooner than really necessary.... Sometimes, MUCH sooner! :lecturef_smilie:
 
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Another Trick .... whenever I've had to remove a battery before replacing it, I would loosely wrap some strong string or cord around it..... This makes it a lot easier to remove it the next time ......Also add STAR washers to the terminals before you attach the wires .....& I'm old enough to remember when AUTO batteries didn't have the removal straps built onto the batteries :gaah:.......Mike :thumbup:
 
Walmart bike batteries don't have any CCA's listed on any of theirs.

I don't think you need to be concerned about the CCA (cold cranking amps) rating. That matters only if you are going to leave the bike parked in cold, cold, weather. In normal weather a Spyder takes a minimal amount of juice to start. If it doesn't start right off you have other problems that need to be ferreted out. The greatest issue, which you have just experienced, is deterioration of the battery with time and it's total current capacity at any time. If the battery doesn't have much reserve capacity when you hit the starter, the starter load will drag it down quickly. When it drops below 10.5 volts during the start process the computer goes bonkers, just as you saw yours do.

Be more concerned about the overall reputation of the battery rather than the statistics of it. I, myself, tend to equate Walmart offerings as cheap and would buy one from them only if I don't have good alternate choice. What matters most is properly conditioning the battery before you use it. A stellar battery poorly prepared won't serve you as well as cheap battery properly prepared.

By and large the Yuasa batteries have proven to be a reliable battery that are more than adequate for power sports vehicles. Having said that, there has been a shortage of them on the market the past couple of years. I had to opt for a Batteries Plus battery for my RT a couple of years ago. I'm not particularly impressed by its performance now. I wish I could have gotten a Yuasa. There are those on the forum who tout lithium-ion batteries as being the bee's knees! IMO, using a Li-on battery in a Spyder is akin to using a one ton truck to haul sand for a kid's sandbox when a compact pickup will do the job quite nicely.

As far as physical size goes that is usually locked into with the part number. Battery sizes are also noted by a Group #. Most any YTX24HL battery will be the same size. If you want the actual dimensions look up the specs on the Yuasa website.
 
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Second in what he said /\/\/\ I had to replace my battery on my 2019 RTL. The one in there had been replaced by PO and it was a generic one that did not fit right, the top holder did not fit the top of the battery. And it failed in less than 1 month. I replaced it with a Batteries Plus one -BS type. That one did fit and the battery top mount worked on it. It came with the acid to add to it. I did that and charged it up over night. It works but not as well as the one on our new 2023 S2S. And yes I do add star washers, including to the new S2S. those terminals on the S2S were actually loose :yikes::roflblack:

Here is the Yuasa on amazon with the acid pack: https://www.amazon.com/Yuasa-YUAM62...p/B000WJX2PY/ref=psdc_404722011_t1_B000N5SBBM Note it has 350 CCA and is a 22.1aH . BS means comes with the acid pack that you add to the battery. then charge up @ 2 amps overnight.
 
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Not a Spyder expert by any stretch, but I'd say yes you can take it out and take it with you. I just put a new one in the wife's F3s. If you've got a Batteries Plus close by call them. That's what I did and they were able to match it right up. Extreme Brand , same size 350 cca.

Easy install!
 
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OK, I got this one at the battery+ store, and charged it over night. I will try to install it today, and will let you all know if it works. THANK you all for the help.
 
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Hi there Chris,
Lew from BattleBorn Spyders. I don't have the membership info handy, so if you're not already a member, please join us. We are on FACEBOOK also. Good luck with the new battery. I have found that pulling the trunk lid makes any battery work so much easier, and it's just 4 bolts.
Lew L
 
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:coffee:...Remember to slowly charge the new battery with a 2 amp or less charger. A battery charger/maintainer is the better way to go. Your battery store should have the correct unit. This may take 24 hours or more before you have a full charge. The voltage needs to be 12.8 or better when you check it. (My Battery had 13.1 volts.)

Doing the charge and check will save you time and money down the road. If you don't take the time to do it right the first time.

Good luck with the battery project.. ....:thumbup:
 
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