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Scotty...winter storage tire pressure?

wyliec

New member
Scotty,

I found a thread in which you mentioned 40-50 lbs when storing your bikes for winter. I have the stock spyder tires and the rear shows a max. of 30#; didn't check the fronts. I know you said in the same thread that the 40-50# is much higher than what is shown on the tires of some of your bikes. Before I put in 40# I wanted to double check that that would be okay.

Thanks
 
Scotty,

I found a thread in which you mentioned 40-50 lbs when storing your bikes for winter. I have the stock spyder tires and the rear shows a max. of 30#; didn't check the fronts. I know you said in the same thread that the 40-50# is much higher than what is shown on the tires of some of your bikes. Before I put in 40# I wanted to double check that that would be okay.

Thanks

You don't want to go that high with the pressure...there is no need...I keep my bike in the garage during the winter and don't play with the pressure...I'll either take the bike out from time to time or roll it around a 1/4 or 1/2 revolution...more importantly is running the bike for some time every week or two to keep everything lubricated and running properly...
 
You don't want to go that high with the pressure...there is no need...I keep my bike in the garage during the winter and don't play with the pressure...I'll either take the bike out from time to time or roll it around a 1/4 or 1/2 revolution...more importantly is running the bike for some time every week or two to keep everything lubricated and running properly...

I think you should not operate the spyder at high tire pressure, but storing the Spyder with high pressure shouldn't do anything. Anything, except keeping flat spots from forming on your tires. I agree that it is better, if you have the chance, to take it for a ride. However, if you are unwilling to throw common sense to the wind long enough to ride in the winter, over-inflating can help.
 
I don't raise the pressure on the Spyder or the BMW RT at all. That is because I try to ride them periodically, if the weather doesn't stink. My opinion is that belted radial tires don't tend to flat spot like the bias ply tires on my vintage rides. The best method to prevent flat spotting is to jack the vehicle up. Big pain with as many as I have! I have found raising the pressure keeps the tires round, and more importantly prevents cracks in the sidewalls where the tires bulge. I have never had difficulty, or the slightest sign of tire failure. I do not ride the motorcycles at raised pressures. None of this is according to Hoyle, or the manufacturers recomendations. It should be noted that the pressures printed on the sidewall are operating pressures, though. Safe storage pressures have not been determined. From past experience with pressure vessels of many types, however, the test pressures are always considerably higher than the safe operating pressure, usually 2-4 times the safe level. I can't advise you what to do, I can only relate what works for me.
 
Scotty do you recommend starting the bike every couple of weeks. I basically put my bike up on stands, do the oil change, fog the throttleboddy and tailpipe as well as put fuel stabilizer in the full tank of gas. Is this all necessary if you plan on starting it every couple of weeks ? Oh yea I also leave the battery in the bike on an Optimate 4 battery charger.
 
You are doing everything correctly. Do not start the Spyder untill you are ready to ride in the Spring.
 
You are doing everything correctly. Do not start the Spyder untill you are ready to ride in the Spring.
:agree: The only additional thing I do for long term storage is remove the plugs while the engine is warm, and fog the cylinders. Also remember to top off the gas tank with the stabilized gas, to limit condensation
 
You are doing everything correctly. Do not start the Spyder untill you are ready to ride in the Spring.
:agree: The only additional thing I do for long term storage is remove the plugs while the engine is warm, and fog the cylinders. Also remember to top off the gas tank with the stabilized gas, to limit condensation.
 
Lift the weight off the...

tires so they don't flat spot. Even the best tires seem to get a flat side if left sitting for more than a couple of weeks.
 
Scotty do you recommend starting the bike every couple of weeks. I basically put my bike up on stands, do the oil change, fog the throttleboddy and tailpipe as well as put fuel stabilizer in the full tank of gas. Is this all necessary if you plan on starting it every couple of weeks ? Oh yea I also leave the battery in the bike on an Optimate 4 battery charger.
When you put stabil in the tank you should RUN the engine several minutes so it goes through the entire fuel sytem!! Don,t just add it to the fuel tank.
 
What does it mean to (FOG) the cylinders? :dontknow:
There is a product, originally produced for two-stroke engines, called fogging oil. This aerosol spray is squirted into the intake of running engines until they stall, or into the open spark plug holes of a warm engine. It can also be sprayed into the muffler. It coats the parts with a film of clingy oil, preventing rust and corrosion (i.e. "stuck" engines). Sort of like the old Cosmoline for storing parts.

When you put stabil in the tank you should RUN the engine several minutes so it goes through the entire fuel sytem!! Don,t just add it to the fuel tank.
Good point. I run to the gas station to top off the tank, putting in the stabilizer before I fill. This gives a good mix, and allows the satbilized fuel to go completely through the fuel system on the way home. If I already have stabilized the fuel, but it is a tiny bit low, I just top off the tank to minimize the air space which allows moisture to condense.
 
tires so they don't flat spot. Even the best tires seem to get a flat side if left sitting for more than a couple of weeks.

You can just roll the bike forward a few feet and this will defeat any issues with the tires...

I run the engine about 10 minutes every week or two when it's the middle of the winter and I ain't going anywhere...
 
I just use my ATV lift and take the Spyder up about 1" off the ground--- problem solved.

Where are you placing the lift to get all wheels up at the same time?

I tried jacking on the frame just below or in front of the engine; but, it seemed to raise only the back wheel. The back wheel was about 4"-6" off the floor and the front wheels were still on the floor.
 
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