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"School" me on shocks

I would be careful in regards to drilling the bodies to change oil. The newer shocks are gas pressurized, not sure if they are emulsion or IFP. If they are IFP, drilling may only release the gas.
 
With today's shocks; drilling would be a bad thing...
But during a rebuild; nobody said that the what was put into them, couldn't be changed... :thumbup:
 
With today's shocks; drilling would be a bad thing...
But during a rebuild; nobody said that the what was put into them, couldn't be changed... :thumbup:

OEM shocks are not considered rebuildable as far as I know. I do not have them in front of me, but thought these were welded units without removable sealheads.

The 2014 front oem shocks are gas filled per the stampings on the bodies.
 
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:D Where there's a will...

There's the inevitable trip to the emergency room!! :roflblack:
 

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So, in order to reduce the "roll" in corners, we turn up the shock preload, but it stiffens up the ride and makes it rougher. Then we lessen the preload to get a smoother ride, but increased "roll" in the corners. My shocks are stock on our 2010 RT, and I currently have them set in the #5 position to minimize the roll, but the ride feels kinda harsh. How can a shock be "smart" enough to give us the best of both worlds? I guess for $800/pair, they should even install themselves...:yikes: I knew I shoulda bid higher on the Elkas at Spyderfest.;)

I lean my body to the inside of corners, works for me.
 
I would be careful in regards to drilling the bodies to change oil. The newer shocks are gas pressurized, not sure if they are emulsion or IFP. If they are IFP, drilling may only release the gas.

True, you don't want to drill gas filled shocks. Dangerous and would do you no good. But the early Spyder shocks were not gas filled. Besides, I don't think anyone will bother with it anyway. But good point to make because you never know.
 
Another alternative is to get a set of the Pitbull Shock Relocators. These move the top mount location out from the frame giving the shock better leverage against the suspension. This functionally increases dampening and spring rate.

In the words of the spyderlovers mechanical #1 guru (who shall not be named, and hasn't been here in a while), the word is damping, when referring to suspension. Although I was on his ignore list, he was still #1 in my book.
 
In the words of the spyderlovers mechanical #1 guru (who shall not be named, and hasn't been here in a while), the word is damping, when referring to suspension. Although I was on his ignore list, he was still #1 in my book.

It is a schoolboy mistake made by many people that do not work a lot with suspension. It happens all the time in cars, bicycles, motorcycles and other stuff. Honestly hardly worth mentioning these days. But you are correct.

A damper dampens...A dampener makes something wet. A motorcycle damper uses liquid to dampen the suspension movement, unlike when you wash you bike, you are the dampener and apply liquid to to the bike to clean it.

Crazy and not a big deal to me.
 
In the words of the spyderlovers mechanical #1 guru (who shall not be named, and hasn't been here in a while), the word is damping, when referring to suspension. Although I was on his ignore list, he was still #1 in my book.

:shocked: Are you saying that I might have used the correct term?
Imagine that... :D
 
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