SAVING MONEY ON CAT DELETE...............................

[Ramrover]

Instead of purchasing a new cat delete for my 2012 RT Limited, would it be possible to remove existing converter, have it gutted and then reinstall. I have not checked with my local shops yet, I just need to know if a gutted converter would be the same as a new bypass pipe....

 

[Peter Aawen]

A few have done that reasonably successfully, but do bear in mind that the 'primary muffler' or Cat as it is often called is pretty much designed to create heat at that particular point in the exhaust so that what little actual catalyst honeycomb there is in there can work appropriately at catching the unwanted emissions.... so gutting your OE Cat might reduce SOME of the heat generated & may even reduce the turbulence & excessive back pressure created in the exhaust/cat that helps all that happen, but it won't ever be as good at reducing any/all of that as a 'proper' cat eliminator will be. :thumbup:

 

[heyharris1]

Howdy,

If you pull off the cat will it throw out some kind of emission code. We I live you don't have to go through inspections but in some states you may have to. Could it possibly come back to bite you in the end instead of just replacing it with the proper item?

Jim

 

[SPYD3R]

CAT GUTS


this is a Cat from a 990 RT... this will give you an idea as to what's inside yours...
the center tube is the actual CAT, the rest is for noise abatement.
Dan P
SPYD3R

 

[jcthorne]

Howdy,

If you pull off the cat will it throw out some kind of emission code. We I live you don't have to go through inspections but in some states you may have to. Could it possibly come back to bite you in the end instead of just replacing it with the proper item?

Jim

Removing the cat will not set a code on any Spyder.
There is no post cat O2 sensor on any Spyder.
Spyders are not subject to emissions inspections in any state in the US. Including CA.

 

[Bob Denman]

How much money are you REALLY saving? :dontknow:
By the time you gut the converter, and put it back together: you could have already been riding your bike with the bypass installed.
Don't forget: having that converter intact will always give you the option to re-install it...
(What if a potential buyer is scared off by your modifications?)

 

[Chupaca]

Have to agree

:agree: If you have reservations on the needing the cat at sometime you should remove it and shelf it. The difference may be mininal...:thumbup:

 

[Bob Denman]

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

GUTTING THE - CAT

View attachment 152420 View attachment 152421
this is a Cat from a 990 RT... this will give you an idea as to what's inside yours...
the center tube is the actual CAT, the rest is for noise abatement.
Dan P
SPYD3R

The 1330 is similar to above !!! . .. the important point is you can't just remove the plumbing inside and have an empty / hollow Primary Muffler .....it might work but not very efficiently ....IMHO....... Mike :thumbup:

 

[pauly1]

The catalyst-containing honeycomb structure on an F3 is at the inlet of the primary muffler. Simply knock it out with a chisel. I've done that on both our F3s. That maintains a certain amount of back pressure, removes the structure intended to be hot, and increases the exhaust tone a bit. No one runs at WOT to benefit from open exhaust. The other argument is save weight: that primary is adding traction at the rear wheel which an F3 and F3-S need.

The primary muffler has a double wall construction to reduce radiated heat. I get way more heat from the radiators than the gutted primary.

On one I also removed the packing from the secondary muffler. On side by side runs, it is stronger and normally takes another liter/0.3 gals of fuel on a near empty fill. Oh, and it was the strongest at the unofficial drag race at SpyderFest 2015.

Wayne

 

[El Dorado]

I removed mine yesterday and replaced with a Spyderman Exhaust. I could not believe how much the stock system weighed. reduced weight and much less undercarriage heat can only be a good thing. Not to mention my 1330 now sings beautifully.

 

[tjtabler]

The catalyst-containing honeycomb structure on an F3 is at the inlet of the primary muffler. Simply knock it out with a chisel. I've done that on both our F3s. That maintains a certain amount of back pressure, removes the structure intended to be hot, and increases the exhaust tone a bit. No one runs at WOT to benefit from open exhaust. The other argument is save weight: that primary is adding traction at the rear wheel which an F3 and F3-S need.

The primary muffler has a double wall construction to reduce radiated heat. I get way more heat from the radiators than the gutted primary.

On one I also removed the packing from the secondary muffler. On side by side runs, it is stronger and normally takes another liter/0.3 gals of fuel on a near empty fill. Oh, and it was the strongest at the unofficial drag race at SpyderFest 2015.

Wayne

What kind of tone difference did you get from your chisel work? Was it raspy and high, or low and mean?