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Ryker comfort seat installation.

Spyderdale

New member
Picked up my new Ryker Rally today and as soon as I got home started installing accessories. Things went well untill I tried to install the comfort seat. Watched videos several times and looked like a simple job. It would not latch on in the back so I removed it and one of the plastic latches (the hook on the end ) was broken off. Dont know if the dealer will take it back or not. Bummer for a $300.00 item.
Any comments ?
 
I'm sorry to hear that. If you purchased it from the dealer, then its worth a try. I also have the Solo Comfort seat, didnt have any issues with the installation. I just lifted up on the original foam seat a little, slid my fingers to the tabs and popped it up one tab at a time. Lined up the tabs on the Comfort Seat, pushed downward gently but with enough pressure and it just popped right in place. I havent tried to remove it, afraid I might break a tab. If I remember correctly, the tabs are hard plastic, not foam like the original.
 
I bought a comfort seat on sale off Amazon about a week after I tucked my Rally in for hibernation. I'll be installing it soon I hope. I'm wondering if there are some rough edges around the square(?) "holes" where the tabs snap in. I haven't looked too closely at mine yet. If the seat support plate is stamped steel, the stamp dies do get dull and won't punch out the opening as cleanly as earlier in the lot. I'm thinking it probably won't hurt to use a 6 or 8" file and smooth up the top and bottom inside edge of the tab holes. Maybe a little grease also on the tab angle area also. If there is a rough edge it's probably scraping too much on the angled area of the tabs. Deburring Dept.? "Write 'em up!" By the way, living up here in Northern Illinois I have wondered at times if it gets too cold for those plastic tabs, push pins, and other plastic gizmoes on the Rykers not to break.
(my shed isn't heated)
 
I picked up this same seat from my dealer last week and It was old stock made in early 2019. I yanked off my factory seat and popped this one on in below freezing temps with no issue. I did make sure the tabs were lined up before I smacked it into position. hopefully your dealer will help you out.
 
I got it on. There are two torx screws holding the seat pan down at the rear of the seat pan. They are accessable from underneath. I loosened those two screws to allow the seat pan to lift up slightly and after doing so the comfort seat snapped right in. After it was snapped in place I tightened the two bolts. Im mght add that just for a more secure mount I put a zip tie through the seat (between the foam and plastic bottom then through the slots where the tabs snap in) then secured it underneath the max mount. If somebody was to try to rip off the seat they would have to cut the zip tie which is underneath and only visible if you are almost laying on the ground.
 
so I removed it and one of the plastic latches (the hook on the end ) was broken off. Dont know if the dealer will take it back or not. Bummer for a $300.00 item.
Any comments ?

Give the dealer a call and explain when you tried to install the seat you noticed it was damaged and you'd like to exchange it. The worse the dealer can do is say "Sorry, no can do."
 
I got it on. There are two torx screws holding the seat pan down at the rear of the seat pan. They are accessable from underneath. I loosened those two screws to allow the seat pan to lift up slightly and after doing so the comfort seat snapped right in. After it was snapped in place I tightened the two bolts. Im mght add that just for a more secure mount I put a zip tie through the seat (between the foam and plastic bottom then through the slots where the tabs snap in) then secured it underneath the max mount. If somebody was to try to rip off the seat they would have to cut the zip tie which is underneath and only visible if you are almost laying on the ground.

:congrats:
 
Yes, I know, old thread, but I just had a frustrating experience. All, listen to Spyderdale above even if you know of others who just "popped the comfort seat in". There is very little room between the metal frame and the bottom of the plastic seat pan, and this condition can break a tab. I snapped off one of my 8 tabs (back of seat) trying to push the seat into place, and no epoxy or super glue is going to do you any good in this situation as far as repairing the tab. It's super irritating that BRP uses plastic tabs of the material they do given most people would rather not lift the body off to replace a seat that *should* just snap into place. I saw a YouTube video where a guy was claiming the tabs were metal. I don't think so. Maybe they were a few years ago. If you want to consult a shop manual to remove the body or "clamshell", you will avoid this situation entirely at the expense of extra work. I took a shortcut because I had seen so many others do it on here and have heard of dealers using the same shortcut (carefully pull the original seat off and line up and pop the new one into place).
 
Yes, I know, old thread, but I just had a frustrating experience. All, listen to Spyderdale above even if you know of others who just "popped the comfort seat in". There is very little room between the metal frame and the bottom of the plastic seat pan, and this condition can break a tab. I snapped off one of my 8 tabs (back of seat) trying to push the seat into place, and no epoxy or super glue is going to do you any good in this situation as far as repairing the tab. It's super irritating that BRP uses plastic tabs of the material they do given most people would rather not lift the body off to replace a seat that *should* just snap into place. I saw a YouTube video where a guy was claiming the tabs were metal. I don't think so. Maybe they were a few years ago. If you want to consult a shop manual to remove the body or "clamshell", you will avoid this situation entirely at the expense of extra work. I took a shortcut because I had seen so many others do it on here and have heard of dealers using the same shortcut (carefully pull the original seat off and line up and pop the new one into place).
BEFORE I installed the Comfort Seat I filed the top edges of the square? holes thinking that may ease the entry of the tabs. I think I may have also put some grease on the angle area of the tabs. Still had to be careful with the alignment. Front ones 1st with press in I saw on youtube. Maybe BP should have made a separate plate with tabs, made of more flexible plastic that screws on to the bottom of the seat in case of replacement needed. I didn't know if the filing/grease would help but it may have. Sorry to learn of your misfortune.
 
I'm not saying that you did anything wrong, or that can am made the seat correctly. What I am here to tell you is that if you break a plastic tab, and they won't replace, all isn't lost. Plastic welding is a thing, and it is pretty cheap to buy the equipment for it. A cheap HF iron, a used hair dryer, and some plastic strips and you can fix it and strengthen it. I learned to plastic weld out of necessity, I'm not great at it, but it works and is super cheap and easy. If the weld isn't being seen, it just makes it that much easier. I've welded up water tanks (they are pricey for a plastic tub), and they still hold water. I also weld my kayak from the dragging up the bank.
 
I took the easy way out, and had the dealer install mine. ;-}

Not a bad idea to use a heat gun on any tabs like that when the temp dips though. I don't know of many plastics that won't soften up a bit with a bit of heat. Even a blow dryer will work in a pinch, but make sure you get it back inside before the SO finds out you've been using it to fix the bike. <G>
 
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