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Ryker 900 will not start - any recommendations?

Once the engine is running again it may be a good idea to put some gasoline conditioner in the tank to help clean up any left overs from the fuel separation in the tank and injectors.
 
All
Thanks for the expert advice.
Today with car battery attached got her starting and running but still in Limp mode. Got my boat out of garage blocking the bike. Got her out on the road going at bursts from 0 to 60mph. Errors disappeared, and Limp mode took a bit more time to finally give up the ghost. New lithium battery arrived today and per Peter it is on a charger overnight. Swap over tomorrow.


In retrospect not sure what actual caused it to die. Bad fuel or Battery going bad. So, lesson learned here keep check on battery status. And as far as the fuel I am blessed with Ethanol gas. I have 2 boats, and both hate it, so adding the Ryker to the hate list. so surely will add fuel conditioner to make everyone happy.
One more thing, the service manual contains a limited listing of fault codes especially in the "C" category. And the other thing is cost of the BUDS Tester. I guess this forum is the backup version BUDDY'S.
 
I liked the 'BUDDY'S' pun :2thumbs: :clap: It's certainly better'n BUDDETTE! :p . And it could've been either or a combination if both that caused the failure - but if you've resolved it, lessons have been learned, & things are now working.... then I reckon it's probably time to chalk this all up to experience & move on. :ohyea:

BTW, here's a post from another Spyder Forum about Lithium Batteries (it's not my post, but it is by someone I respect & who I believe knows what they're on about, especially when it comes to Spyders & their electricals!) ;)

A lithium battery has an unloaded terminal voltage of 14.4V. An AGM lead acid battery has a unloaded terminal voltage of 12.8V. Your regulator will be set up to charge an AGM battery to 13.8V (the float voltage) which is short of the lithium battery's fully charged voltage.

Also, a lithium battery will suck as much current as it can get when charging from a constant voltage charger (your regulator). Things will get hot. It should be charged with a dedicated lithium battery charger, which provides constant current until the lithium battery is fully charged.

So, some electronic intervention will be needed.

You can fit a lithium battery straight in. It will probably work, but not ideally and probably with some problems.

Now I wouldn't expect you'd see 'problems' per-se any time soon after fitting up a good quality well charged lithium battery; and maybe some of the circuitry embedded in most lithium battery cases will help mitigate any issues developing over time, but in my experience and as per the quoted post, with a lithium battery installed in your Spyder you should be at least aware of the potential for 'less than ideal' operation over time and at least try to give your lithium battery a proper charge every now and then - but then we are told that they do last longer if you keep them/operate them within the right temperature range (23°C - 26° C or there-abouts... 25° C is frequently espoused as 'ideal' ;) ) and largely between 20 & 80% of full charge. :rolleyes:

There's a lot of info out there about them if you want to go searching (both here & elsewhere, some of it quite technical &/or academic! :shocked: ) and it might pay you to do some reading/research the best charger/maintainers to use with your lithium battery. :thumbup:

Over to you! :cheers:
 
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All
Thanks for the expert advice.
Today with car battery attached got her starting and running but still in Limp mode. Got my boat out of garage blocking the bike. Got her out on the road going at bursts from 0 to 60mph. Errors disappeared, and Limp mode took a bit more time to finally give up the ghost. New lithium battery arrived today and per Peter it is on a charger overnight. Swap over tomorrow.


In retrospect not sure what actual caused it to die. Bad fuel or Battery going bad. So, lesson learned here keep check on battery status. And as far as the fuel I am blessed with Ethanol gas. I have 2 boats, and both hate it, so adding the Ryker to the hate list. so surely will add fuel conditioner to make everyone happy.
One more thing, the service manual contains a limited listing of fault codes especially in the "C" category. And the other thing is cost of the BUDS Tester. I guess this forum is the backup version BUDDY'S.

Batteries can be fickle things. I've gone a decade with zero battery problems but my late Tiger 800XC went through three in 2years! Just luck of the draw I guess. Great news you've got it running though:ohyea:
 
I am a firm believer in Marine Stabile, have been using it ever since the government started shoving this darn gas down our throats. I think it works, using your toys more often would be better, but sometimes things get in the way of that. I think between the battery, and stale gas you had a no-win deck of cards. Glad you're on top of that!
 
Glad you got that sorted, MDRyker. This will be a reminder to never overlook the battery as a suspect. The factory battery in my '22 was no-name junk, didn't last a year.

Sarah
 
Thanks to all:
Got the new battery into bike with some modification. I should have paid more attention to position of the battery terminals. Old battery had (+) in lower right position. The new battery has (+) upper right. So, with some stretching and adding a lug extension got it to fit. Negative side had more wire flexibility. Plus, I swapped out those square nuts (that I hate) with threaded inserts with US threads (1/4x20).

As for charging I have a charger designed for Lead Acid, AGM, & Lithium with maintainer mode as well (from Noco).
As for fuel adaptive I'll check into Marine Stable, but I have used in my boats a product from STAR BRITE Star Tron Enzyme Fuel Treatment

So, as it has been stated, time to move on to the next thing plus my wife's bike.

On a new issue will first search the forum then likely post a new thread on "Clunking".

Take care and thanks for the help, much appreciated.
Paul
 
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I wouldn't try WOT on a Ryker.
With the centrifugal clutch, if it starts you are gone.
If the parking brake is on, something is going to break.
If you hold the brake on and go WOT it will probably throw a fault. :dontknow:

The ECU will not rev the engine with the parking brake on.
 
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Dead battery

Hi everyone, thought I'll quickly share my battery experience in case someone hunts and find this thread.

Ready to hit the road yesterday my new to me 2019 Rally just did not want to start with dash flashing and popping up with all kinds of messages, fuel sensor error, VSS error and then the dash just go dead and tail lights flicker. Obviously initial worry set in.....

Grabbed my charger, connected battery and showing fully charged, jumper cables ready and connected but engine just won't turn over but at least the dash settled down and no error messages.

Went to store and purchased a new Motobatt Quadflex MBTX12U and it was so quick and easy to install. Rocky fired up first turn and purred away my heart was happy again!

Hoping this helps for anyone searching.
 
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