Running an SAE connector ... can I put a fuse block here?

[Mike0123]

As I was pulling an SAE connector wire from the battery to the seat area, I realized there is a lot of room in that spot under the cheesy panel at the base of the windshield, top of the frunk. Does it make sense to run 12 or 10 gauge positive and negative from the battery to that area, and then use a fuse block with a negative bar to hook up the tender, heated gear connectors etc? LED’s??
I could maybe switch the whole fuse block through a relay too.

Make sense?



TIA

 

[Navydad]

That's where I put mine and did just what you have in mind INCLUDING the relay. Works just fine.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

As I was pulling an SAE connector wire from the battery to the seat area, I realized there is a lot of room in that spot under the cheesy panel at the base of the windshield, top of the frunk. Does it make sense to run 12 or 10 gauge positive and negative from the battery to that area, and then use a fuse block with a negative bar to hook up the tender, heated gear connectors etc? LED’s??
I could maybe switch the whole fuse block through a relay too.

Make sense?

View attachment 187725

TIA

IMHO 10 or 12 gauge wire is way over-kill, but those gauge sizes won't hurt anything ...... Mike :thumbup:

 

[Mike0123]

Thank you all! Glad to hear it, there seems to be plenty of room there.
Imma gonna glue or super Velcro a fuse block there and be done with it!

 

[Mike0123]

That's where I put mine and did just what you have in mind INCLUDING the relay. Works just fine.

Where did you grab the trigger wire from?
Thanks

 

[PMK]

You did not mention if you fuse holder / box is weather proof. That area is not in a 100% dry area and could cause shorts, and / or corrosion to your electrical items. If the fuse holder / box is not weatherproof, I would find a drier location.

 

[Mike0123]

You did not mention if you fuse holder / box is weather proof.

It will be now!!!
Thanks

 

[spyder01]

I did it a little different.I ran a heavy wire from the positive terminal of the alternator over to where the original horn was and then wired in a double relay setup that I made.One relay is triggered by the horn wire and that controls the wolo horn the other relay is triggered by a wire that is hot only when running,I think it was for heated hand grips,whatever is convenient is fine.That 2nd relay runs wifes heated gear but I have extra wires in place so if I want to add something in future it will be easy.
I have 25 amp fuses on each relay and I mounted them just behind the new horn,and they stay dry and clean.After hearing all the stories of the battery terminals getting loose I thought it might be better to stay out of that area.

 

[Mike0123]

Thank you

 

[Mike0123]

That's where I put mine and did just what you have in mind INCLUDING the relay. Works just fine.

Did you have any issues with water?

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

You did not mention if you fuse holder / box is weather proof. That area is not in a 100% dry area and could cause shorts, and / or corrosion to your electrical items. If the fuse holder / box is not weatherproof, I would find a drier location.

I have a fuse block in that area and have seen no water coming up in there even though it is not a waterproof area. I tapped into the wire to the frunk light for a trigger wire. It's hot when the ignition is on up to the light in the frunk. There isn't as much free space in there as one might think. I've got quite a few wires in there but it does look something like a rat's nest. :yikes:

 

[RayBJ]

You can trigger off the GPS power plug located behind the right side panel. 16 or 18 gauge wire is more than enough for the current draw. You may want to locate the fuse block in the same area as the GPS plug since there's room for it and it's easy to access when needed.

 

[Navydad]

Did you have any issues with water?

Nope. Rode through tropical storm Olga in Louisiana shortly after installation. Rain suits and waterproof boots and we got wet, real wet. No electrical issues at all. I used 12 gauge wire in my installation and haven't had any issues. I run our heated jacket circuits (2) and the power for the trailer harness off the block. All connections, splices, or added connectors were soldered and double heat shrink wrapped. Everything I do electrically is fused. Made my living for 40 years working with electricity, often high voltage. Fuses and relays are my friends :thumbup:

 

[HastingsRider]

I am interested in mounting a fuse block in the same area. Do you have a photo of where you finally found to mount it ?

Thanks