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Electrical help...please!
- Thread starter latony007
- Start date
Magdave
New member
Any Batteries + in you area ? A dead cell in a battery will show a full charge but not have the CCA to do anything which is what you probably had. Having a heavy load on a battery kills it and can cause the dead cell. Expect to pay ~$100 for a proper battery remember what happened when you cheaped out on the install. You should have used a relay fuse block many are on the market and a search will help you find the right one. It works by isolating the device from your fuse box except for the very small amperage to engage the relay and then supplies battery voltage to the heater.. It must be hooked up to a powered by key circuit like the trunk charger. Good luck. :thumbup:
latony007
New member
I didnt intend to cheap out on the install. I thought i was going the extra mile buy buying the fuse kit as suggested in the instructions or i just would have wired it to the battery, which is what i am going to do now since it has its own switch, except im going to use an SAE to plug into my battery tender pigtail so i can just unplug it and it has a fuse.
I just looked and there is a batteries plus fairly close, i have never seen it but will check it out next time. i had to oder last night to have it here tomorrow and i have free prime shipping with Amazon so it will be here tomorrow with no extra charge. Right at 100 for the Yuasa
IdahoMtnSpyder
Active member
I think it's the same reason the lights came on, a mucked up ECM. The ground side of the starter relay actuator coil goes into the ECM. The ECM has to be happy in order to complete the circuit necessary to crank the starter. And from what you've described, for whatever reason the ECM was not happy. To paraphrase an old saying, "If the ECM ain't happy, ain't nobody happy!"
IdahoMtnSpyder
Active member
But, but, but, jump starting is an approved procedure by BRP. Look in the owner's manual. That is why there are the two booster posts under the service cover in the frunk.
Magdave
New member
:thumbup: You are still better off getting an aux relay controlled fuse block if you are going to start farkling. Isolation of the system is a good thing and it is good to have a "on only when running" system. Switches fail...sometimes. Hope it goes well.
Chupaca
New member
Jumping your spyder....
It is recommended you do not have the jumper vehicle running. Ignition should be off and you should go through the battery in your machine. Your battery serves as a filter and a great investment is a jumper charger like antigravity for such occasions. A direct hookup to the car battery may send a signal to the computer of an overload...jmo these machines do get querky when the battery is not just right and logic and science don't seem to apply...Hence all the glitches..
It is recommended you do not have the jumper vehicle running. Ignition should be off and you should go through the battery in your machine. Your battery serves as a filter and a great investment is a jumper charger like antigravity for such occasions. A direct hookup to the car battery may send a signal to the computer of an overload...jmo these machines do get querky when the battery is not just right and logic and science don't seem to apply...Hence all the glitches..
latony007
New member
It is recommended you do not have the jumper vehicle running. Ignition should be off and you should go through the battery in your machine. Your battery serves as a filter and a great investment is a jumper charger like antigravity for such occasions. A direct hookup to the car battery may send a signal to the computer of an overload...jmo these machines do get querky when the battery is not just right and logic and science don't seem to apply...Hence all the glitches..
That is certainly proven! lol.
Ok so i got the new battery today and hooked everything up and its starts fine. It is however giving me the engine light and the "check DPS system" i seem to remember getting that once before and it just cleared itself. Any thoughts? That is the power steering or something? i did not have any trouble steering it around the neighborhood. I just have this charity ride tomorrow and want to make sure all is well before i take it.
Magdave
New member
Carefully take it around the block again. DPS is Dynamic Power Steering. Some times codes will reset. Also check relays to make sure they are tight.:thumbup:
IdahoMtnSpyder
Active member
Did you by chance turn the wheels right or left while the ignition was on and you had the funny cluster display? If so, the DPS may have thrown an error due to insufficient current to assist in the turning. That could also have happened while you were riding and the battery was about ready to give it up. If that's the case you should be OK now with a good battery. The DPS draws a lot of power and poor cable connections have been known to cause DPS errors.
latony007
New member
i screwed the cables pretty tight, but i figured since it was an amazon battery maybe it had been around a while so i put it on the battery tender to charge. I hope that will solve the problem. I dont recall turning it while i was having the problem it was just sitting in the garage. its been on the tender over an hour and hasnt gone green yet so i am hoping it just needs a charging. Started up the bike with no issue so it cant be that low. Hopefully when it goes green the error will go away. im going to take it out a little later to try it
Battery Tenders don't "charge"....they maintain the amount of discharge that occurs over time.
I know that various makes of "tenders" may have different codes for their indicator lights, but I believe that the yellow light means that the tender is checking the battery, and that the green light means that it is in a maintenance mode, and NOT that the battery is charged.
I know that various makes of "tenders" may have different codes for their indicator lights, but I believe that the yellow light means that the tender is checking the battery, and that the green light means that it is in a maintenance mode, and NOT that the battery is charged.
When you buy a battery from Amazon it will usually have the acid in a container in the box with instructions on filling and nuts and bolts and possibly a breather tube. The battery is dry charged when you get it but usually does not have acid in it as it is illegal to ship a filled battery as even a sealed battery can leak or explode. When you fill the battery you let it stand for a while while the plates get saturated and top up to the fill line either with some of the remaining acid or water.
Have a look here;
http://www.atbatt.com/motorcycle-batteries/how-to-fill-and-charge-yuasa-ytx14-bs-motorcycle-battery
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Have a look here;
http://www.atbatt.com/motorcycle-batteries/how-to-fill-and-charge-yuasa-ytx14-bs-motorcycle-battery
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Gray Ghost
New member
There are a lot of batteries that come direct from the factory already filled, the battery the OP ordered from Amazon was one of those shipped filled from the factory. "Factory activated - filled, sealed and charged at the factory". They can be shipped, but are restricted to ground shipment.
IdahoMtnSpyder
Active member
Mine will. I've got a NAPA 2 amp charger/maintainer. When my Spyder sits for a few days and the battery monitor starts beeping because the voltage has dropped below 12 I plug in the NAPA unit. Overnight, or so, the battery will be back up to full charge. I even recharge a 115 amp hour deep cycle battery with it from a 20% to 30% charge level. Takes close to a week, but it does it. The red LED on it shows active charge. While it's charging the LED stays on. In maintain mode the unit sends about a one second charge about once a minute as evidenced by the LED lighting up that way.
Whether it would recover a totally discharged and sick battery I don't know, but then even most high amp chargers won't.
Point taken, Grey Ghost. I sold batteries for near thirty years. Auto and truck shipped wet motorcycle shipped dry with acid in a sealed container as per video. All shipped by land! Your experience may differ [emoji6]. When assembling new bikes for sale the battery is shipped dry.
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PatriotRider
New member
my last 2 batteries for my FJR were MotoBatt purchased from Amazon...came sealed and ready for install (and yellow, never had a yellow battery before
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Gray Ghost
New member
I work at a dealership. Some bikes are shipped with batteries that have to be filled and charged. Some are shipped with batteries that are filled and charged at the factory. Technology has changed.
latony007
New member
You must have like an old ass tender or something. i have two and both charge the battery (red) and then turn to green when the battery is charged and its just "maintaining" it.
The one i purchased "Yuasa YTX24HL" is factory filled and charged battery, no acid separate. In fact the Yuasa web site says to only use factory filled and sealed batteries in the spyder because the battery lays on its back and is at an angle and there could be leakage with a fill-able battery.
I stuck the Yuasa in without charging it and took off for the 7-11 (stupid #1), within about a few blocks it went into limp mode with low voltage and DPS warnings. I also made another stupid mistake and when i got the SAE adapter i hooked the positive and negative of the seat to what was labeled on the wire not realizing it needed to be reversed because the labeling was the same as the SAE adapter attached to the battery (stupid#2). Result was it died. I took it home and put it on the tender for about 20 hrs and it was completely charged. Went to start it and fired right up, i went around the neighborhood a few times and all seemed well EXCEPT the stupid DPS warning wont go away. Could that be the computer/buds whatever just needs to be reset? What happens if the power steering actually does go out does anyone know? Because it did not seem like it was a problem steering it to me.
IdahoMtnSpyder
Active member
The DPS error should go away if everything electrically is OK and there is nothing wrong with the DPS. If it persists you need to get it checked out. It could be something as simple as the steering angle sensor needs to be reset, which is a simple BUDs procedure. Considering all the screwed up actions your computers seem to have gone through I would say that is a real possibility. If than isn't it, then the DPS could be bad. They do crap out. Mine did last year. If it's not covered by warranty fixing it won't be a pleasant experience, unfortunately.
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