RTS Belt Tensioner Question

[Papahoosh]

I just installed Tensioner (Doc Humphreys+219800412 IDLER BELT KIT) following the video provided by Doc Humphrey.
Looking at the finished job it looks like I could directly attach Idler belt kit to the frame. This would bring the Tensioner ball about 2.75 inches towards the left where the white take is and it would still give me about 1.5 inched clearance from the bottom of the gas tank and therefore put little bit more tension on the belt. I also noticed the idler where the ball touches the belt the back part only has less than 1/4 inches gap (where the arrow is pointing). The ball perfectly in the center of the belt.

Has any done this or tough about it?

Thanks for your input.

 

[Roadster Renovations]

I just installed Tensioner (Doc Humphreys+219800412 IDLER BELT KIT) following the video provided by Doc Humphrey.
Looking at the finished job it looks like I could directly attach Idler belt kit to the frame. This would bring the Tensioner ball about 2.75 inches towards the left where the white take is and it would still give me about 1.5 inched clearance from the bottom of the gas tank and therefore put little bit more tension on the belt. I also noticed the idler where the ball touches the belt the back part only has less than 1/4 inches gap (where the arrow is pointing). The ball perfectly in the center of the belt.

Has any done this or tough about it?

Thanks for your input.
View attachment 142716

The closer you move that to the front pulley the more vibration will return and if you do that I would suggest doing a clearance test to make sure it will clear the tank in a rear shock failure. I believe from my tests that if the rear shock failed it would get into the tank. I don't recommend using it without the adapter at all.
Here is the failure test:

Lamont, if this is a no-no, please delete and accept my apologies, but I thought it important from a safety factor.

 

[Papahoosh]

The closer you move that to the front pulley the more vibration will return and if you do that I would suggest doing a clearance test to make sure it will clear the tank in a rear shock failure. I believe from my tests that if the rear shock failed it would get into the tank. I don't recommend using it without the adapter at all.
Here is the failure test:

Lamont, if this is a no-no, please delete and accept my apologies, but I thought it important from a safety factor.

Thanks Doc Humphreys, I am no expert in this matter.
Currently it is installed per your video. I was just curious if anyone thought of moving it forward.
I am not sure what year is your RT, mine is 2016 and when I compare yours with mine it looks like the idler on yours is closer to the tank and away from that support (marked red) than mine is.

 

[Warlock]

Thanks Doc Humphreys, I am no expert in this matter.
Currently it is installed per your video. I was just curious if anyone thought of moving it forward.
I am not sure what year is your RT, mine is 2016 and when I compare yours with mine it looks like the idler on yours is closer to the tank and away from that support (marked red) than mine is.

View attachment 142720

I see by the pictures your idler is mounted wrong. The idler needs to be under the piece that Doc made and not on the top. This will change the tension and distance.
David

 

[Roadster Renovations]

I see by the pictures your idler is mounted wrong. The idler needs to be under the piece that Doc made and not on the top. This will change the tension and distance.
David

Good catch, Warlock. I missed that. The reason it is placed under is to put it in the same position it would be in without the adaptor, height-wise.

 

[Papahoosh]

I moved the idler under the slotted bracket. Thanks Warlock.

 

[irvin48]

how do you know that the tensioner is properly aligned ? can you run the
vehicle to perfectly square it before tightening ?--irv

as an additional ?, if the tensioner worked fine on top of the bracket and
eliminated the vibration, wouldnt it be better on the belt ?
too close to the tank ?
i do have 1 coming.

 

[Roadster Renovations]

how do you know that te tensioner is properly aligned ? can you run the
vehicle to perfectly square it before tightening ?--irv

I would make sure that you have pulled the byke in forward before installation so that the normal tracking of the belt will be in place. Once you have aligned it (splitting the difference the pulley will slightly hang over each edge, then secure it down. If you still are not sure at that point a short test ryde around the block with the panels off should be able to give you a good idea if it's right.
I didn't test tyde either the RT or F3 after install and they both tracked exactly right. I think the most important part is pulling forward to align the belt, splitting the difference on the overhang, and loc-titing and adequately tightening the bolts so they cannot move.

 

[Devious56]

When you install it, it is pretty obvious when it is lined up properly, it is right in plain view.


David

 

[irvin48]

anyone ordered the new aluminum arm kit from doc yet. any idea on ship
date ?--irv

 

[Roadster Renovations]

anyone ordered the new aluminum arm kit from doc yet. any idea on ship
date ?--irv

.
Around Feb 1st is projected.

 

[eddieshep999]

anyone ordered the new aluminum arm kit from doc yet. any idea on ship
date ?--irv

Doc posted this on Facebook today :

https://www.facebook.com/doc.humphreys.7/posts/10158263328180455

They are looking good

 

[irvin48]

is there a reason the roller isnt a little bigger so it doesnt spin as fast ?
gas tank ? i come up with 12,672 revolutions per mile.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

THE ROLLER

is there a reason the roller isnt a little bigger so it doesnt spin as fast ?
gas tank ? i come up with 12,672 revolutions per mile.

Although I haven't seen it close up ..... it may contain bearings, which would reduce the spinning resistance a hugh amount. But I think there really isn't any room to make it larger. When you look at it in a stationary position, there is clearance , however when you load the Spyder that changes dramatically ............. jmho...... Mike :thumbup:

 

[jroberts650]

is there a reason the roller isnt a little bigger so it doesnt spin as fast ?
gas tank ? i come up with 12,672 revolutions per mile.

I'm going to try to coat my roller with plasti-dip. I have an older model so my belt has ridges on the top side and it causes a small amount of whine since the roller is hard plastic and smooth.

 

[Warlock]

I'm going to try to coat my roller with plasti-dip. I have an older model so my belt has ridges on the top side and it causes a small amount of whine since the roller is hard plastic and smooth.

I wouldn't do that. You could get it thicker in some spots and could cause vibration on the roller. Don't think the dip will hold up anyway.
David

 

[Roadster Renovations]

We tried a neoprene sleeve on the roller of a 09 RT and it slid over within 1/2 mile and almost cut all the way through the plastic arm. Not good.

 

[jcthorne]

Why the need to develop aluminum arms? The plastic one from BRP is effective and its a pretty low stress part and not subject to wear. Strangely enough the bearings BRP is using are pretty good. Its actually amazing they are selling the arm for the price they are consider the cost to make.

 

[Roadster Renovations]

Why the need to develop aluminum arms? The plastic one from BRP is effective and its a pretty low stress part and not subject to wear. Strangely enough the bearings BRP is using are pretty good. Its actually amazing they are selling the arm for the price they are consider the cost to make.

Actually, the lateral play increased .005 thousands in 200 miles. I have a video using a dial indicator that can be posted, so as the miles mount there will be more slop in it until it fails. In 50 plus years of automotive repair I have never seen a pulley application that did not extend at least most of the width of the pulley or was properly balanced with a bearing on each side. I got started on this aspect when a member reported that after a 20 minute 80mph ryde that the plastic pulley became extremely hot. Repeated times of heating up and cooling down will eventually "fry" the plastic and it will loose it's quality. Heat and plastic are not friends of each other. That is why we developed a double bearing pulley.
As far a the plastic arm goes, it might be fine for a time (probably as long as the pulley lasts) but with an aluminum it will never cause an issue or wear out. For those of us that are able to routinely take our bykes apart (even on the road) a part built to wear out and need replaced would just be an inconvenience. For someone that relies on the dealer to install this would require a tow and a dealer to get unstranded. Also, with the aluminum arm setup, only the pulley would need to be replaced if/when it needed replaced rather than the entire unit.
There will be some that will stay with the plastic and I am curious to see how long it takes for the first one to fail.

 

[Bike-O-Din]

Idler on RT = Ride Report

I am pleasantly surprised. I just installed the idler pulley with Doc's kit and put on a hundred miles or so on all kinds of roads. Highway speeds to 70+, and backroads as well. So far so good.

I bought the original smooth spyder setup back in 2012/3 and never installed it. I really did not want to drill into the frame, and I did not notice the vibration that others complained about. Well now that i put on this new BRP version, I discovered that I apparently had the vibration all along, because now it is GONE!! :clap:
]
The RT seems "smoother" throughout all speeds (but maybe I just wanted it to be), and there is only the engine vibration characteristic of all V Twins. I am impressed.

Yes, there is a whine because i have the older style belt, but it sounds a bit like a turbine engine, so it has some "cool factor" and is not so loud as to be annoying.

I am also worried about the longevity of the pulley, so I will be eagerly awaiting the ability to get the aluminium arm and a better pulley.

Today was just a great day for riding - who would have thought you could ride comfortably in the Shenandoah Valley in January!!

Mr Bill