RT622 TRAILER LIGHTS

[Harvey]

Has anyone had to replace the brake/flasher light on their RT622 Trailer?

I have removed the carpet and plastic cover inside the trailer. After removing the two small phillips head screws from the black cover on the plastic light module/housing, the black cover should come off of the silver housing. There is a black gasket holding the two together and I do not want to apply so much pressure that one of them breaks.

Is there a secret, or do I just have to muscle it off with lots of pressure to break the seal?

Thank You…

 

[NancysToy]

The brake lights on the RT622 are part of the taillight module, and are multiple LEDs. The entire module has to be replaced if they fail. An owner who is handy and who knows electronics might be able to disassemble and repair it, but it is not normally needed nor done.

 

[Harvey]

The brake lights on the RT622 are part of the taillight module, and are multiple LEDs. The entire module has to be replaced if they fail. An owner who is handy and who knows electronics might be able to disassemble and repair it, but it is not normally needed nor done.

Thank You. My dealer lists two different bulbs for the brake/tail light assembly. With two screws to hold on a plate, one would think that same plate would then be removable. If one must replace the entire assembly because one bulb burns out, that could be $200-$300.

The entire lighting assembly has not failed, I still have tail lights, but no brake or flashers. Again, the dealer lists two different bulbs for this unit, so I would think they must be replaceable without replacing the entire assembly.

Any other suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[harrypottar]

I have a 2010 RT622 and those the holder just twist out on a bayonet type fitting.

Newer models maybe different. Odd that both bulbs went, I wonder if you can check the trailer module outlet with a 12 volt tester.

harry

 

[NancysToy]

Thank You. My dealer lists two different bulbs for the brake/tail light assembly. With two screws to hold on a plate, one would think that same plate would then be removable. If one must replace the entire assembly because one bulb burns out, that could be $200-$300.

The entire lighting assembly has not failed, I still have tail lights, but no brake or flashers. Again, the dealer lists two different bulbs for this unit, so I would think they must be replaceable without replacing the entire assembly.

Any other suggestions would be appreciated.

The 2010 RT-622 had separate turn signals and non-functional provisions for backup lights. Your dealer may have seen those bulbs in the parts fiche, or mistakenly looked at the LED clearance lights. The brake/turn function on the 2011 and newer RT-622 (and brake lights on the 2010) are the center row of LEDs in the taillight assemblies, same as the brakelights on the RT. I had a brakelights fail on my 2010 RT and had to have the taillight assembly replaced. If both sides are out on your trailer the problem is more likely in a connector, the wiring, or the trailer module. I'd start at the Spyder connector with a multimeter and trace my way back. You could also test the trailer lighting, jumped with a separate battery.

 

[Harvey]

The 2010 RT-622 had separate turn signals and non-functional provisions for backup lights. Your dealer may have seen those bulbs in the parts fiche, or mistakenly looked at the LED clearance lights. The brake/turn function on the 2011 and newer RT-622 (and brake lights on the 2010) are the center row of LEDs in the taillight assemblies, same as the brakelights on the RT. I had a brakelights fail on my 2010 RT and had to have the taillight assembly replaced. If both sides are out on your trailer the problem is more likely in a connector, the wiring, or the trailer module. I'd start at the Spyder connector with a multimeter and trace my way back. You could also test the trailer lighting, jumped with a separate battery.

Just one side is not working. Tail lights on both sides are ok, flashers & turn signal on one side ok, other side not ok. The black panel with gasket is what I cannot remove. Not sure if gasket is super tight or it is not supposed to be removable. I have removed the two small screws that appear to be holding it on, but it will not budge. Don't want to break it. Thanks for the input.

 

[NancysToy]

Like I said, sealed assembly, not meant to be serviced. An electronics person might be able to repair it if you could dismantle it, but the standard fix is to replace the entire assembly. I don't know what year your RT-622 is, but they are warranteed, much like the Spyder. I'm not sure of the duration.