RT Oil Drain Plug issue

[SpyderRTOhio]

I have a 2013 Spyder RT SE5 and trying to do an oil change. I am having issues breaking loose the drain plug under the Oil Tank.
Seems my torx bit is not gripping and getting slightly chewed up. I suspect the dealer on the last oil change torqued it down tooooo much. Would it be ok to try an impact driver to break this loose or any other tips from other owners who may have run into this issue.

 

[Grandpot]

Grab and turn the head of the plug on the outside with vise grips while turning with the Torx wrench. Throw the plug away and order Gold Plugs. Do this for both plugs.

 

[BoilerAnimal]

You need Allen wrenches, not Torx wrenches.

 

[billybovine]

You need Allen wrenches, not Torx wrenches.

:agree:

 

[BajaRon]

There are 2 reasons people have trouble with the OEM drain plugs.

1- They get them WAY TOO Tight! They only need to be snug. That's plenty. They get tighter with the heat/cold cycles.
2- Using Torx on Allen head bolts and Allen wrench on Torx head bolts

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

You need Allen wrenches, not Torx wrenches.

Metric. But get a set of metric hex bits for your ratchet. An Allen wrench hardly gives you enough leverage.

 

[SPYD3R]

GOLD PLUGS

www.goldplug.com

Gold Plug, LLC

888-578-3851[email protected]​

if you call, ask for TIM, and he will supply you with all you need: plugs, crush washers, O-rings, etc....
Dan P
SPYD3R

 

[pegasus1300]

If I remember right that is a 6mm Allen.BTW the hole is quite deep so be sure your
Allen goes in all the way.Also do not bother with the Gold plugs they are waaaaaay to expensive.Go to Value Accessories(sponsor on the Home page) and order one of each plug they have,I think they are $6.00 each and work very well.And now you can use a socket wrench. Torque specs are pretty light so don't use your head bolt arm when doing them back up them down.Remember you are putting steel into an aluminum thread. Guess what is going to give 1st.

 

[Chupaca]

Here's how....

When ever doing the oil change with the oem plugs...First, as stated above, use the correct allen and use a socket allen you can attach a ratchet wrench to. Insert the socket allen in the plug and hit the socket a couple of times with a hammer. This will help break up the varnish acting like locktite. Then add the ratchet and give it a good swift jerk. Always worked for me on all vehicles...:thumbup:

 

[Richardv]

Good eyes, still sharp......

You need Allen wrenches, not Torx wrenches.

......didn't see it when reading it. Good for you

 

[UtahPete]

I have a 2013 Spyder RT SE5 and trying to do an oil change. I am having issues breaking loose the drain plug under the Oil Tank.
Seems my torx bit is not gripping and getting slightly chewed up. I suspect the dealer on the last oil change torqued it down tooooo much. Would it be ok to try an impact driver to break this loose or any other tips from other owners who may have run into this issue.

If you use the correct wrench in the respective drain plug, it will be TIGHT and won't strip out the plug's fitting. There have been other, detailed threads on this topic and you should spend some time reading them.

Keep your life simple; use the OEM plugs and the correct wrench for each. Unless you have really ruined them, you don't need to replace them with something else. In either case, you don't need to spend a lot of money on something like a Gold Plug.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...-Transmission-drain-plug&highlight=drain+plug (this one is for the 1330 engine, but has some good info on breaking loose stubborn plugs)

 

[billybovine]

There are TWO drain plugs for the engine oil. One is an allen (hex) fitting; the other is a Torx. You must NOT use the wrong one in each plug. You MUST use the correct size of each.

If you use the correct wrench in the respective drain plug, it will be TIGHT and won't strip out the plug's fitting. There have been other, detailed threads on this topic and you should spend some time reading them.

Keep your life simple; use the OEM plugs and the correct wrench for each. Unless you have really ruined them, you don't need to replace them with something else. In either case, you don't need to spend a lot of money on something like a Gold Plug.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...-Transmission-drain-plug&highlight=drain+plug

The OP has an 2013 model. That means it is a 998 Cc engine. So both drain plugs should be hex. Not like the 1330 engine you referenced.

 

[UtahPete]

The OP has an 2013 model. That means it is a 998 Cc engine. So both drain plugs should be hex. Not like the 1330 engine you referenced.

Oh, nuts. You're right. Thanks.

 

[pegasus1300]

If I had to spend $36 on a pair of drain plugs I would sure find a way to make the stock ones do. Since Value Accessories has plugs $6.95 each that have magnets and I do prefer bolt heads to Allen's,I'll go with them. I have had them on my Spyder for a couple of years of oil changes now and they have worked just fine.If you don't mind the Allen's and yours are find then stick with them. The biggest problem with them is if you are not used to tools or Allen heads you may not get your Allen seated deep enough to really get the plug to break loose.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

BRAKING IT / THEM LOOSE

If I had to spend $36 on a pair of drain plugs I would sure find a way to make the stock ones do. Since Value Accessories has plugs $6.95 each that have magnets and I do prefer bolt heads to Allen's,I'll go with them. I have had them on my Spyder for a couple of years of oil changes now and they have worked just fine.If you don't mind the Allen's and yours are find then stick with them. The biggest problem with them is if you are not used to tools or Allen heads you may not get your Allen seated deep enough to really get the plug to break loose.

Try this the next time you do an Oil change ..... put in your tool and give it two hard taps straight up .... this almost always BREAKS the varnish seal on the threads ...........works everytime I've done it ....it also ensures the tool is in as far as it can go :clap:..... Mike PS - Value Accessories has only one PLUG for the 1330 , but both of the V-twin plugs ......... Mike :thumbup:

 

[Rookiespyder]

That happened to me when I did my oil change this spring on my 2015 RTL 1330. I tried the drill out bits but no luck also tried vise grips no luck. So I tried something different I put in a oversized drill bit into it to the point where it jammed it not to far in. Then I used my drill gun as a rachet going back and forth and pulling the trigger at the same time and it worked. I threw the dam thing out and replaced it with a set of gold plugs.

 

[Bensonoid]

Get the Spyder up in the air also, I jack mine up and let it down on a 6x6 under each wheel. It's much easier to see what you're doing and dealing with under there.

 

[hensmanj4220]

Magnetic side view mirror mounts

MAGNETIC SIDE VIEW MIRROR MOUNTS:

FYI - To work on anything with a Spyder, the first thing you need to remove are the mirrors. Mirror attachment is a poor design and will fail after removing several times. Spyder suggests - the purchase of Magnetic Magic Mirrors to solve the problem at $109.00+ for 6 magnetics (crazy). In doing some research we found the same material "much cheaper" and installed on my 2011 Spyder RTS-SE5 and only spent $51.00 (no shipping $). They fit RT 2010-2019. Here is the information if you need to fix your problem. Company: MAXPEEDINGRODS (website: http://www.maxpeedingrods.com/ ) (Product #3002072131) (Full Description: Magnetic Side View Mirror Mounts for the compatible for Can-Am Spyder RT 2010-2019, 2011, 2012, 13). THEY WORK GREAT. Please note: Existing screws holding plastic clips has a washer under the screw head that will not allow screw to fully recess - blocking the magnetic connections; therefore, washer either needs to be removed and screws replaced. Magnetics "must fully engage to the new metal plate to make the seal."

If you have any questions - reply accordingly.

 

[davev1pa]

MAGNETIC SIDE VIEW MIRROR MOUNTS:

FYI - To work on anything with a Spyder, the first thing you need to remove are the mirrors. Mirror attachment is a poor design and will fail after removing several times. Spyder suggests - the purchase of Magnetic Magic Mirrors to solve the problem at $109.00+ for 6 magnetics (crazy). In doing some research we found the same material "much cheaper" and installed on my 2011 Spyder RTS-SE5 and only spent $51.00 (no shipping $). They fit RT 2010-2019. Here is the information if you need to fix your problem. Company: MAXPEEDINGRODS (website: http://www.maxpeedingrods.com/ ) (Product #3002072131) (Full Description: Magnetic Side View Mirror Mounts for the compatible for Can-Am Spyder RT 2010-2019, 2011, 2012, 13). THEY WORK GREAT. Please note: Existing screws holding plastic clips has a washer under the screw head that will not allow screw to fully recess - blocking the magnetic connections; therefore, washer either needs to be removed and screws replaced. Magnetics "must fully engage to the new metal plate to make the seal."

If you have any questions - reply accordingly.

https://www.maxpeedingrods.com/index.php?search=spyder&submit_search=&route=product/search

 

[davev1pa]

I have a 2013 Spyder RT SE5 and trying to do an oil change. I am having issues breaking loose the drain plug under the Oil Tank.
Seems my torx bit is not gripping and getting slightly chewed up. I suspect the dealer on the last oil change torqued it down tooooo much. Would it be ok to try an impact driver to break this loose or any other tips from other owners who may have run into this issue.

https://www.lamonstergarage.com/show-chrome-can-am-spyder-1330-m14-1-5-magnetic-drain-plug/ 1330cc
https://www.lamonstergarage.com/show-chrome-998-motor-m14-x-1-5-m12-x-1-5-magnetic-drain-plugs/ 998cc