RT-622 trailer tire stem problem

[TicketBait]

Had trailer all packed up for Spyderfest trip.

Went to check the tire pressure in the trailer

tires and they were both low, 17lbs, should be 35:yikes:


So I have a portable compressor I put air in and when I went

to check one of them the tire valve stem little pin was

stuck in the inverted open position, so the air would not

stop till I put the cap back on. Then no air is escaping

I filled it back up, and put cap back on. Is it ok to pull

trailer empty to a tire repair shop 1 mile away, or do

I need to remove tire and take to them?

Also if I have to take off the tire, where do I put the
jack under the trailer?

Remember you are speaking to someone with very limited

repair knowledge.


And on another note, today I check my oil and I have too much in it,

so I go and buy a siphoning extractor, and extracted 160z, only to

learn I needed to add 8 oz of new oil back. That was a good thread I read.

Then in my search for finding an answer for this question, I read allot of

posts about repacking/ servicing trailer bearings at 12k miles, although

Scotty recomends each year. I probably have 10k miles on my trailer
over the last 3 years, I hope they serviced it last year at the dealership. :dontknow::gaah:

 

[NancysToy]

Go to the store (Walmart, K-Mart, auto parts store, etc.) and buy some valve stems and a valve stem wrench. Remove the old valve cores, screw the replacements in snugly, and fill the hires. You should be good to go. I would not try to tow the trailer with just the valve caps holding air...not even around the block. If you must, however, fill the tires to the max pressure on the sidewall before you head out. Better to remove the tire and wheel if you don't fix it yourself.

 

[TicketBait]

Going to AutoZone tomorrow morning
and getting (parts) what you said. Will post when I finish the project.
I do have a spare I can put on in place if I am unsuccessful.

Thanks Scotty!

 

[NancysToy]

These are what you are looking for. Either the long or the short cores will work fine. The end with the little slot is what you use to screw the core out or in. The other parts of the tool are an easy-out for broken cores, and a tap and die to restore the stem threads if needed. Everybody should have a tool and spare cores in their toolbox. Valve core leaks are the most common cause of slow tire leaks. Most are just from loose cores.

 

[TicketBait]

Thanks, I will bring mt iPad to the pep boys store so there is no confusion:thumbup:

 

[MouthPiece]

As to the wheel bearings which was commented upon, the 2012 trailers have a warranty campaign based on either the serial number or vin number. I had mine checked. It fell in the warranty campaign. Fortunately my dealer, Seminole Power Sports in Sanford, Florida, had already replaced.

Chris

 

[TicketBait]

These are what you are looking for. Either the long or the short cores will work fine. The end with the little slot is what you use to screw the core out or in. The other parts of the tool are an easy-out for broken cores, and a tap and die to restore the stem threads if needed. Everybody should have a tool and spare cores in their toolbox. Valve core leaks are the most common cause of slow tire leaks. Most are just from loose cores.

Did almost exactly what you said, I found a 1993 quarter, but didn't have a "New Pence 50" , so I used a silver dollar :roflblack:

Seriously can't believe how easy that was, now I will just store the tool and spare on the bike for the future :yes:

Thanks again :bowdown::firstplace:, I feel so accomplished nojoke for me.

 

[StanProff]

trailer bearings on 622

My trailer has about 6ooo miles on it and I thought I would check the wheel bearings before heading to Spyderfest. I went ahead and bought some bearing grease and jacked up the trailer. One wheel looked o.k. and I repacked the bearings and put it back on. The other wheel had a little back and forth play indicating the nut wasn't quite tight enough. I pulled it apart and the bearing seemed o.k. turned smooth and has no ruffness to it. I repaked both bearings and put back together and turned the nut to the next hole for the cotter pin so there was no play in it. put the wheel on and it turns smoothly with no noise. This might be something to check in regards to the play in the bearings, just reach down and give each wheel a good shake back and forth. You should not be able to hear it thunk when you pull or push on it. Not sure it would have caused a problem but it shouldn't have that "play" in it.