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RS SM5 trouble shifting into 2nd

Graptor

New member
I've been having a problem shifting into second that has been getting worse over time. It will not go into second with out jamming it several times. I've read about the oil causing an issue so I checked it, no problems with that. All the other gears I have no problems with. It will also shift from 3rd to second without issue. Going from first to second is the only issue. No error codes or messages either.i have notice that if I hold shifter in and shift it will also go into the gear. Keep in mind, this is only a problem half the time. The other half of the time it goes into second without issue.
 
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Shifting Problem

I've been having a problem shifting into second that has been getting worse over time. It will not go into second with out jamming it several times. I've read about the oil causing an issue so I checked it, no problems with that. All the other gears I have no problems with. It will also shift from 3rd to second without issue. Going from first to second is the only issue. No error codes or messages either.i have notice that if I hold shifter in and shift it will also go into the gear. Keep in mind, this is only a problem half the time. The other half of the time it goes into second without issue.

Ok..first the obvious..is the shift lever tight on it's shaft? If not it can move a little as you're shifting and will require more force to change gears. If it's tight, then make sure your clutch disengages fully when the lever is pulled in. If it doesn't, you could have air in the hydraulic lines. Open the master cylinder, squeeze the lever and if you see bubbles, bleed the clutch to expel the air that may be trapped. If that doesn't do it, then either the master or slave cylinders for the clutch are going away, but more likely you have a worn shifting fork inside the transmission, in which case it would be time to take the trike in to a good shop to have them take a look.
 
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As TerryTheSpyderRyder said clutch worth checking. I started having problems going into neutral and also occasionally from 1st to 2nd. When I checked the clutch fluid it was pretty dirty, certainly more than I would have expected with the mileage I'd done at that point. Replaced the clutch fluid and it sorted the problem.
 
All of the above...

The other is the rpm's you are shifting at. I can smoothly shift all gears without the clutch 2nd thru 5th. If you run the rpm's high enough and the shift is smooth this will eliminate the shift fork being an issue and bring you back to fluid or air in the system though both of those would create problems in all gears...good starting point would be the fluid change. ..:thumbup:
 
Graptor question..

Do you by chance shift your spyder into neutral before actually starting it? That is what I used to do, and I think that is how I bent the shifting fork. I only mention that because I was having the same issue. After the dealer told me the fork was bent (covered under warranty at the time), I thought about how hard I used to jam the shifter to get it into neutral (by hand) before starting the spyder. I went thru this ritual to give me time to suit up, check the spyder, and let her warm up, before mounting up.
 
The spyder is a 2015 with about 2,000 miles on it. I do have a Rivco heal toe shifter as well. I checked the operation of the shiftier and it doesn't seem to be binding. I checked the shifter oil, its clean with no bubbles. Its very possible something is bent but, it all seems to be smooth, even when It wont' lock into second. I also moved the heel shifter up so that I can make sure that I'm pressing cleanly into second. I have no issues getting into neutral or any other gear. I setup an appointment to have the dealer look at it, its still under warranty.
 
I'd remove the heel/toe shifter and try that, just to eliminate that as a cause. The dealer will probably blame that first.
 
RPM's

I loosed my Heel Toe and retighted it and took the bike on a 30 minute ride. I payed close attention to my RPMs and speed before shifting. I never shifted out of first till 4300 RPM's and kept it above 30MPH. No issues. I'll keep it up and see if that does it.
 
Do you by chance shift your spyder into neutral before actually starting it? That is what I used to do, and I think that is how I bent the shifting fork. I only mention that because I was having the same issue. After the dealer told me the fork was bent (covered under warranty at the time), I thought about how hard I used to jam the shifter to get it into neutral (by hand) before starting the spyder. I went thru this ritual to give me time to suit up, check the spyder, and let her warm up, before mounting up.

So do you start it in gear now and recommend that to keep from bending the fork? I have a 2013 RS and have the same ritual as you. Haven't had any issues but if I have to change my ritual to prevent it.


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I've always started it in gear. If there is any bending its from the heel toe shiftier not being aligned correctly.
 
So do you start it in gear now and recommend that to keep from bending the fork? I have a 2013 RS and have the same ritual as you. Haven't had any issues but if I have to change my ritual to prevent it.


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I'm off the spyder when I start it, with the clutch lever engaged, and in gear; I then reach down and shift it into neutral by hand, and then go thru my ritual. That's just the way I do it. I also set the parking brake first.
 
I'm off the spyder when I start it, with the clutch lever engaged, and in gear; I then reach down and shift it into neutral by hand, and then go thru my ritual. That's just the way I do it. I also set the parking brake first.

Ok, thanx!!


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I took it for a long ride last night and there is a problem, but keeping it above 4300 RPM's and not shifting into 2nd until 30 MPH makes a big difference. I'm wondering if all the short shifting I've been doing since I bought the bike has caused this problem.
 
I have an appointment set at the dealer but, that doesn't make me stop trying to figure it out. After reading the comments about oil, I added just about half a quart. That took it above the full line but, half way between full and the top of the checkering when hot. That improved the shifting a lot. After a 45 minute ride it only missed second once. During that time I was also repeatedly shifting at all different RPMs and speeds. I do still think there is an issue, but it's not un-drivable till my apointment.
 
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