RPMs, Eco Mode and Shifting on the 2014 RT

[MRH]

With the 2014, it seems that it might make sense to consider what ideal and acceptable RPMs are on the new 2014's. Eco mode seems to be very happy in the 3000's, and even in the high 2000's. In riding the bike, anywhere between about 3000 and 5000 feels very smooth, and the red zone for RPMs kicks in earlier than it did in previous models.

BRP (at the motorcycle show) and my dealer both said that the 4000 to 6000 range is still the range, but the programming in the bike might suggest that we need to adjust that down by 500-1000 RPMs (or perhaps simply widen the range). I'm certainly not the expert, but I think that some of you may be.

I don't know at what RPM the clutch is fully engaged in this model, or what is considered best for the engine and transmission.

Thoughts?

 

[ARtraveler]

Hopefully, we can come up with a standard set of shift points, based on all the beta testers that are now out and about.

There are a couple threads for the shift points on pre-2014's--but this is still being determined for the new ACE 1330.

opcorn:opcorn:opcorn:

 

[Texas]

I believe the new SE6 prevents you from being able to shift up until it is in a acceptable range (what BRP has defined in their programming as acceptable), at least this is how mine works.

 

[Bob Denman]

The new clutch engagement system, has pretty much removed the possibility of serving-up toasted clutch plates for lunch anymore! :thumbup:
The dealer said 4,000 to 6,000 rpm for shifting?? :shocked:
I don't see how that would work out too well; the engine redlines at only 7,500 rpm...
Try shifting at the pont where the engine can pull the load that you're asking of it; in the next gear. It'll take some time to find that point; but it's there for the search!

 

[acinpcola]

If you shift when the eco mode tells you to you will be shifting between 3k and 4k RPM and mostly mid range at 3.5krpm. I am in the testing mode of shifting without eco to check gas mileage. I find that I am shifting mostly from 3k to 3.5kRPM with the shifting being smoother at 3.5k rpm ( no clank into gear). These are just my observations.

 

[Frime78]

You may want to check this thread

You can find addition information under the following thread http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?62697-Shifting-in-the-2014 I hope that this information will be of assistance

Daniel

 

[Bluehole]

I have just over 500 miles on my '14 RTL. During the last 100 miles I played around with shift points a bit. Mainly using a upshift point between 2300 & 2500 rpm for every gear. The tranny was happy with that and shifted every time I pushed the paddle. There was never any felt lugging of the motor in any gear and all was right with the world. Unless I feel it will lug the motor, I allow nanny to do all the downshifting.

As a side note---that last 100 miles took just 2.428 Gal of fuel---41.2 MPG. To get there I had to align the belt and get the tires up to 20# front and 30# rear. I will continue to monitor MPG as I always do. My belt was quite a bit out of alignment and the tire pressure as delivered was in the 15.5# range which I suspect masked some of the balance/alignment issue.

Another side note---I installed the RonBar just before that last 100 miles. Noticed a immediate improvement in cornering but also noticed vibes in the handlebars. So either wheel balance or alignment is in my future. Am working on getting setup with Pro Caliber in Longview, WA for the ever popular laser alignment if it ever stops raining long enough.

I have done all my testing in 100 mile increments with speeds ranging from 25 MPH to 65 MPH. This last 100 was speeds mostly in the 50's.

That is my experience thus far. Had the Spyder just about 2 months now.

 

[Bob Denman]

Thanks for this information! :thumbup:
:shocked: 41.2 mpg??? :clap: :firstplace:
Please tell us more about how you made this happen! :2thumbs:

 

[Bluehole]

Thanks for this information! :thumbup:
:shocked: 41.2 mpg??? :clap: :firstplace:
Please tell us more about how you made this happen! :2thumbs:

You've heard of blueprinting motors?? I just checked and adjusted anything I could concerning the chassis. Made sure every possible adjustment was within spec. But I believe my biggest gains came with getting the rear wheel to run straight and getting the proper amount of air in all 3 tires.

Prior to my last 100 mile test, I had recorded a 36.4 MPG reading so with proper air and true running of the rear tire, plus being in the 50's speed wise, I think the 41 MPG is a good number. I will certainly be looking for more of the same.

Here on the Olympic Peninsula of Washington, the "legal" speed limit is mostly 55 MPH. So the wide range is between 50 & 60 MPH. Don't go over 60 and you will never get pulled over. I subscribe to that theory.

 

[Bob Denman]

No doubt; getting everything pointing in the proper direction at the same time, is a REAL plus! :thumbup:
I think that's where a lazer alignment, may prove to come in VERY handy!

 

[BikerDoc]

Thanks for this information! :thumbup:
:shocked: 41.2 mpg??? :clap: :firstplace:
Please tell us more about how you made this happen! :2thumbs:

the key to that kind of mileage is the 25 mph to 65 mph speed range. in over 8000 miles already on my 2014 RTL it hasn't learned to go that slow, however at real world or above speeds i am now getting just over 37mph

 

[MRH]

Ironically, the way to shift a 2014 seems to be essentially the numbers I was shifting my 2010 at until I learned better!

I'm glad that others have had similar observations as I have - thanks for the input and let's keep the discussion about how to ride this amazing new beast going.

 

[Bob Denman]

I was thinking the VERY same thing...

 

[ulflyer]

If you shift when the eco mode tells you to you will be shifting between 3k and 4k RPM and mostly mid range at 3.5krpm. I am in the testing mode of shifting without eco to check gas mileage. I find that I am shifting mostly from 3k to 3.5kRPM with the shifting being smoother at 3.5k rpm ( no clank into gear). These are just my observations.

Same with me.

 

[Cruzr Joe]

the key to that kind of mileage is the 25 mph to 65 mph speed range. in over 8000 miles already on my 2014 RTL it hasn't learned to go that slow, however at real world or above speeds i am now getting just over 37mph

8,000 already, I am purely jealous

cruzr joe

 

[OldDog]

Belt alignment on new RT ?

I have just over 500 miles on my '14 RTL. During the last 100 miles I played around with shift points a bit. Mainly using a upshift point between 2300 & 2500 rpm for every gear. The tranny was happy with that and shifted every time I pushed the paddle. There was never any felt lugging of the motor in any gear and all was right with the world. Unless I feel it will lug the motor, I allow nanny to do all the downshifting.

As a side note---that last 100 miles took just 2.428 Gal of fuel---41.2 MPG. To get there I had to align the belt and get the tires up to 20# front and 30# rear. I will continue to monitor MPG as I always do. My belt was quite a bit out of alignment and the tire pressure as delivered was in the 15.5# range which I suspect masked some of the balance/alignment issue.

Another side note---I installed the RonBar just before that last 100 miles. Noticed a immediate improvement in cornering but also noticed vibes in the handlebars. So either wheel balance or alignment is in my future. Am working on getting setup with Pro Caliber in Longview, WA for the ever popular laser alignment if it ever stops raining long enough.

I have done all my testing in 100 mile increments with speeds ranging from 25 MPH to 65 MPH. This last 100 was speeds mostly in the 50's.

That is my experience thus far. Had the Spyder just about 2 months now.

I am curious about why you had to align the belt and how this relates to the vibration and the total alignment picture. :dontknow:

 

[Bluehole]

I am curious about why you had to align the belt and how this relates to the vibration and the total alignment picture. :dontknow:

Noticed every time I pulled into the gargage after a ride that I would smell burnt rubber. Investigation revealed that the belt was riding on the flange of the rear pulley. Aligning the belt causes the rear tire to run straighter thus reducing scuffing/drag. I believe the felt vibration is a result of airing up the tires to proper inflation. The under inflation (15.5#) was masking the vibration/alignment problem to some degree. I am going to have the shop check the front wheels for both balance and out-of-round conditions. Once that is cleared up, then I will have a laser alignment done.

 

[OldDog]

BRP action item

Noticed every time I pulled into the gargage after a ride that I would smell burnt rubber. Investigation revealed that the belt was riding on the flange of the rear pulley. Aligning the belt causes the rear tire to run straighter thus reducing scuffing/drag. I believe the felt vibration is a result of airing up the tires to proper inflation. The under inflation (15.5#) was masking the vibration/alignment problem to some degree. I am going to have the shop check the front wheels for both balance and out-of-round conditions. Once that is cleared up, then I will have a laser alignment done.

Whoever tracks this from BRP needs to tighten up the specs on the chassis/ wheel/frame alignment procedure on the assembly line. The 2014 RT looks to be a winner. Correcting this issue at the factory level will achieve a higher level of quality in the finished product. This will result in more enthusiasts buying a Spyder.That's just common sense.

 

[BobnDee]

Check on that one!

Whoever tracks this from BRP needs to tighten up the specs on the chassis/ wheel/frame alignment procedure on the assembly line. The 2014 RT looks to be a winner. Correcting this issue at the factory level will achieve a higher level of quality in the finished product. This will result in more enthusiasts buying a Spyder.That's just common sense.

Quality control at both the factory and the dealer (who assembles and delivers the final product) is critical. Our 2014 RT-s came with only a little over 17 psi in front and 26 psi in the rear. When inflated to spec they should have been 20 psi and 28 psi. Yes, it makes a difference. Moreover, the fronts should be less than 1/2 psi different. That's how it should be delivered.:thumbup:

Bob & Dee