Royal Purple Oil- 1000 Mile Review

[NancysToy]

When is a good time to switch over to Royal Purple? I have about 1700mi on my spyder. Normally I don't switch oils for like my car until I have at least 3000 miles on it. Should I wait?

:chat:

Best time to make any switch is at one of the regular oil change intervals.
-Scotty

 

[Firefly]

No sense in changing mid-stream unless you are having a specific problem. I'm currently having some issues with Royal Purple. Ever since I put it in (1,500 miles ago) my bike has a strange smell to it. RP techs said it was their 'syndelac(sp??)' stuff seating and buring off and it should go away. Well - it's been 1,500 miles and it still smells on acceleration and when I first start the bike up.

On top of that I have developed an oil leak over the last week or so - a few drops every time I park it. Never had such a problem prior to the RP oil - but cannot say that the RP is the cause. I've got all the tupperware removed and am looking closer at where the leak comes from.

Looking for another oil to try instead of the RP - maybe Mobil 1.

 

[ataDude]

Are you supposed to get an alarm when the brake is not set? I never have but everything else works just fine!!!

welcome

 

[NancysToy]

Looking for another oil to try instead of the RP - maybe Mobil 1.

Advance Auto carries the Mobil1 Racing 4T 10W-40 motorcycle oil (actually not a racing oil but made for water-cooled sport bikes). I didn't like the spec on it, however, and will be trying the Castrol Syntec 5W-40, which is readily available at Advance Auto and AutoZone, among other places. Castrol makes a 5W-40 PowerRS R4 RT motorcycle oil, but it doesn't seem to be available locally, and the local stores couldn't order it. Amsoil makes a 10W-40 that is available locally, and is a top notch oil.
-Scotty

 

[Trickie Dick]

Are you supposed to get an alarm when the brake is not set? I never have but everything else works just fine!!!

welcome :congrats:On your new spyder and welcome aboard. You will love this forum. Lots of good information from some great people here. Check out the Indiana thread from time to time. We try to get together every now and then for a ride. Where are you located?
Dick

 

[Longlegs]

welcome

good catch-- Welcome tberry

 

[teacherbob]

FYI. If you are going to use Royal Purple make sure you use Max-Cycle. That is the one for motorcycles. I know that you can get the Automotive RP cheaper at Auto stores but, they say not to use it in your bike. I sell it cheaper than everyone else but, in deferance to the rules of this forum I am not allowed to mention my companies name.

 

[Firefly]

FYI. If you are going to use Royal Purple make sure you use Max-Cycle. That is the one for motorcycles. I know that you can get the Automotive RP cheaper at Auto stores but, they say not to use it in your bike. I sell it cheaper than everyone else but, in deferance to the rules of this forum I am not allowed to mention my companies name.

While I am running the Max-Cycle, Tech support at RP told me that the 'Auto' version of the oils is also fine and won't cause clutch slippage.

Considering I never had oil leaks and funky smells prior to using RP---- I'm switching to something else to see if the RP was the problem. I'm 100% sure the smell is from the RP - but kind of doubt the leak is - but you never know.

 

[powerbyaj]

I was going to change oil type to Royal Purple and read the owners manual on oil recommendation. States check API service label on the oil container for correct type. I when to the parts store to buy the oil and notice that oil container did not have an API service rating. Is label old because website states otherwise.

Can someone verify on a container that an API service rating exists on the label?

Or

Because BRP states only a recommendation the type oil does not matter and warranty is not void if a non-API Service oil is used and something happens related to oil?

Owner service manual;
BRP Recommended Oil Statement:

The same oil lubricates the engine, the gearbox and the clutch. Use BRP XP-S 5W40 synthetic oil (P/N 293 600 039) or an equivalent motorcycle oil meeting the requirements for API service SL, SJ, SH or SG classification.
Always check the API service label on the oil container.

NOTICE To avoid damaging the clutch, do not use a motor oil meeting theAPI service SMor ILSACGF-4 classification. Clutch slippage will occurs.

 

[fastfraser]

Owner service manual;
BRP Recommended Oil Statement:

The same oil lubricates the engine, the gearbox and the clutch. Use BRP XP-S 5W40 synthetic oil (P/N 293 600 039) or an equivalent motorcycle oil meeting the requirements for API service SL, SJ, SH or SG classification.
Always check the API service label on the oil container.

NOTICE To avoid damaging the clutch, do not use a motor oil meeting theAPI service SMor ILSACGF-4 classification. Clutch slippage will occurs.[/quote]





Royal Purple Max-Cycle 10w-40 made for motorcycles. Make sure you are not looking at the cheaper auto oil. Also most BRP dealers are using a blended oil now , so not fully synthetic against what the owners book says.

 

[BLACK WIDOW]

OIL

My understanding of the 5W vs. 10W is that 5W has more ability to 'stick' to the engine parts - so that when you first start up there is more oil left on the engine parts.

Guess I'll have to do some research, but I'm really thinking of switching to the RP - even before hitting my next oil change!

Firefly-With all due respect you were misinformed. The "W" in 5W40, 10W40, ect. stands for "WINTER" and only pertains to the temperatures that you ride in (5W- EXTERMELY cold weather). I use a 10W40 full synthetic (Mobil 1) JASO-MA rated.

 

[BLACK WIDOW]

Oil

I agree, API is the standard for rating motor oils.

That is true Except for Motorcycle Oil and that standard is JASO-MA.
All true Motorcycle oil will have the JASO rating along with the Maximum API rating allowed usually no higher than SJ/SL and never SM.:doorag:

 

[BLACK WIDOW]

OIL

http://www.bikenomads.com/wiki/index.php/Do_not_use_car_oil_in_bikes

Some good reading for those who want to know about oil.nojoke

 

[Trickie Dick]

New BRP oil line up

I was in the dealer a month ago to pick up some o rings and washers and they gave me a copy of correspondence from BRP regarding the new oil. It's 4 pages long and pertains to the skidoos, seadoos and atvs as well so I will just high light the spyder info.
First they are(have) launching a new line of XPS oils. Previously they they offered 4 different grades of oil for the watercraft, atv and roadster engines.
That is now 2. The black bottle is semi-synthetic and is 5w40 and is intended to be used 3 seasons(spring, summer and fall. The yellow bottle is fully synthetic and is a 0w40 grade and is for use in winter or year round.
It goes on to say they will be called summer grade and winter grade/all-climate grade and most of it deals with the reasons why they did this. (marketing) and to"make it easier for customers to select the correct BRP oil and keep your customers looking for specific viscosity grade from shopping at competitors like Wal-mart."
They are renumbering their products and provided a cross reference chart. ie 293600039 5w40 quart is now 293600121 quart/946ml.
It also indicates they will be releaseing new Kits for the spyder and their other products to include the oil as well as the o rings and washers.

I hope this clears up some of the confusion as to what is going on with our dealers regarding the oil.
Dick

 

[DannyS]

The W in the middle stands for weight, Before variable weight oil you bought 10W,20W,30W or 40W, etc. When Variable Weight oil came out they put the second weight on behind the W. What it means is cold viscosity and hot viscosity. 5W40 means when the oil is cold it has the vecosity of 5W as it heats up it has the vecosity of 40W. All weights before were cold vecosity. When you heat up any oil it gets thinner. The 5W40 only gets as thin as a straight 40W would. This allows thinner oil to get to engine parts sooner to lube them at start up but still retain the lube protection of the heavier oil. In the summer when its hot you run a heaver oil cold because the ambient temp is warmer and and the oil will not take as long to heat up. In the winter when its cold the oil will take longer to heat up so some people run a lighter oil on the bottom so the engine will get proper lube earlier.
Danny:spyder:

 

[BLACK WIDOW]

oil

The W in the middle stands for weight, Before variable weight oil you bought 10W,20W,30W or 40W, etc. When Variable Weight oil came out they put the second weight on behind the W. What it means is cold viscosity and hot viscosity. 5W40 means when the oil is cold it has the vecosity of 5W as it heats up it has the vecosity of 40W. All weights before were cold vecosity. When you heat up any oil it gets thinner. The 5W40 only gets as thin as a straight 40W would. This allows thinner oil to get to engine parts sooner to lube them at start up but still retain the lube protection of the heavier oil. In the summer when its hot you run a heaver oil cold because the ambient temp is warmer and and the oil will not take as long to heat up. In the winter when its cold the oil will take longer to heat up so some people run a lighter oil on the bottom so the engine will get proper lube earlier.
Danny:spyder:

Yes- originally the "W" stood for WINTER and some publications still list it as such; However the common thought is that it means WEIGHT and other publications list it as that but that really is beside the piont since it pertains to the temperature that it is used in.:doorag:

 

[BLACK WIDOW]

OIL

Advance Auto carries the Mobil1 Racing 4T 10W-40 motorcycle oil (actually not a racing oil but made for water-cooled sport bikes). I didn't like the spec on it, however, and will be trying the Castrol Syntec 5W-40, which is readily available at Advance Auto and AutoZone, among other places. Castrol makes a 5W-40 PowerRS R4 RT motorcycle oil, but it doesn't seem to be available locally, and the local stores couldn't order it. Amsoil makes a 10W-40 that is available locally, and is a top notch oil.
-Scotty

Scotty-- I am just curious to know what spec in the Mobil 1 Motorcycle oil didn't you like? It is JASO_MA rated which is the highest rating for any motorcycle oil. I do respect your opinion so I would like to know what you were looking at. I have always pretty much used Mobil 1 synthetic since they started rating their oil to the Motorcycle standards.:doorag:

 

[BLACK WIDOW]

OIL

While I am running the Max-Cycle, Tech support at RP told me that the 'Auto' version of the oils is also fine and won't cause clutch slippage.

Considering I never had oil leaks and funky smells prior to using RP---- I'm switching to something else to see if the RP was the problem. I'm 100% sure the smell is from the RP - but kind of doubt the leak is - but you never know.

Firefly--A good rule of thumb, "If it isn't Motorcycle oil don't put it in a motorcycle." And the only way one would know is to look for the proper rating.nojoke

 

[Just Doo Me]

Here is what I just put in mine, I bought Motul 7100 ester base 100% synthetic [api sg/sh/sj/sl wet clutch anti slipping technology,suitable for catalytic converters] at Royal Distributing $53.95Can. 4L plus tx 10w40 also has Jaso ma rating.It meets all the requirements BRP lists.

 

[BLACK WIDOW]

OIL

Here is what I just put in mine, I bought Motul 7100 ester base 100% synthetic [api sg/sh/sj/sl wet clutch anti slipping technology,suitable for catalytic converters] at Royal Distributing $53.95Can. 4L plus tx 10w40 also has Jaso ma rating.It meets all the requirements BRP lists.

Good To Go!!:2thumbs: When BRP says in their specs "or equivalent Motorcycle oil"; they have to be referring to a JASO-MA certified oil since that is the ONLY Motorcycle oil.

Michael:doorag: