Rolling in Neutral down my driveway

[Highwayman2013]

I wouldn't be so sure about that.
With ABS, stability control and the "nanny", there should be MUCH better ways to do that.

AND......don't some of the "smaller" models still have the 998 twin engines ??
If her's really does, then y'all are really confusing matters !! :shocked:

No smaller models being made. She says she has an F3.

 

[JP58]

Let's say you did the right thing for your new spyder and you did your first oil change at the 3,000 mile mark. Then for some reason after only a thousand miles, you went on a long overseas vacation, or you suffered a unforeseen extended hospital stay, or even did a year in jail. Ah, lets forget that last one. Anyway if you just had a 3K mile first time oil change and you only started the thing up a few times that year, why would you, or would you, change the oil again? Knowing that the oil you'd be replacing it with is quite likely already over a year old from the time it was refined, stored and shipped to you through several suppliers before you ever bought it. I can understand if you did 5,6 or 8k miles in a year but why change oil every year just because? Does it somehow turn bad just sitting in the engine and not in the plastic bottle? If you are going to tell me that because it has acids, moisture and contaminates in it, well those are all in there anyway all through to the 9k mile mark. So why the 9,300 mile or one year which ever comes first? I don't even want to know about the 300 mile part, forget that. I've heard of folks never changing oil. Just change the filter and add oil. Can't say I'd do that but some people do.

It's one year after oil has been used. It won't go bad in the bottle. Once contamination gets in oil it is only good for so long. On your never changing oil. When I was an auto technician I had a coworker female. Her boyfriend told her she didn't need to change oil. Just keep it full. It was a Nissan sentra. Engine seized at 32,000 miles.The filter was ok. The engine was full of sludge. Needless to say boyfriend was in the doghouse.

 

[Peter Aawen]

:agree: Basically, once you open the sealed placcy container & pour it into an engine, the oil will pick up some contaminants - very likely from the remnants of oil remaining in the engine, but even if your engine is brand new, just the act of 'pouring' the oil tends to 'aerate' it a little so it starts absorbing some moisture from the air (and btw, it keeps on doing that!! The water molecules from the air bond with some of the molecules in the oil &/or additive pack, so you won't necessarily detect any increased volume without something like a mass spectrometer to measure it!! But it IS happening! nojoke) AND, once it has been exposed to atmosphere, the oil will begin to lose some of its 'more active' ingredients thru 'evaporation' & other reactions with airborne molecules... and there's even more chemical reactions going on inside the engine too; some of the different metals &/or bearing surfaces react or combine with oil &/or molecules in the additive pack.... all stuff that slowly degrades the protection the oil is likely to provide to your engine!! And all this happens even before you start running the engine & putting all those combustion contaminants in there too!! Then the reactions start becoming pretty frenetic & almost obscene! :shocked:

The nett effect being that the BRP Engineers have determined that suitable spec'ed oil, once exposed to air & poured into your engine, only has a SHELF LIFE of about 1 year, and even then that shelf life can be potentially reduced significantly if the engine is run &/or put thru a few heat/cool cycles &/or worked for whatever the period/operational hours they've decided it takes on average to drive/ryde about 9300 miles, give (or maybe possibly take?) a reasonably conservative safety margin!! So it's only smart to try to comply with the given service specs & oil change periods - or you could get your oil analysed (fairly cheaply these days) and get another opinion on how well it's behaving after being subjected to YOUR ryding & the demands that places on it?! Over time & successive analysis results, the oil boffins can build up a pretty good picture of what your oil is or isn't doing for you.... :thumbup:

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Read here for the results of the oil analysis I had done when I changed the oil at over 10k miles, one year, and parked over the winter.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?112927-Oil-analysis-of-Amsoil-at-10-719-miles

 

[SpyderPolly]

Read here for the results of the oil analysis I had done when I changed the oil at over 10k miles, one year, and parked over the winter.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?112927-Oil-analysis-of-Amsoil-at-10-719-miles

Okay, I did read the manual and probably did change the oil too soon..... but this was a left over 2017 that had been sitting on the show room floor for about a year...... Money spent I really didn't need to. Well..... I'm old school but trying to change old ways is not so easy. I still intend to do 3000 mile oil change..... Anyway on the rolling in neutral down the driveway foolishness... the engine was running and to my belief I WAS IN NEUTRAL. I know rolling in neutral is not something you would ever consider on the road. I guess this Spyder isn't just a new ride but is unlike anything I have ever ridden....except maybe a snow mobile.. I love my F3L so far. A lot faster than my 1996 Road King. Thank you all for your support and comments. I think I'm going to enjoy this forum. Very informative. Peace to all...MsPolly

 

[Bob Denman]

The only problem with rolling the bike in neutral: you have to stop; before being able to put it into first-gear.
Should you need to power out of a situaion (however unlikely... :dontknow: you won't be able to.

 

[Easy Rider]

.. the engine was running and to my belief I WAS IN NEUTRAL.

And there you have it.
Unless you have a clear, distinct memory of SEEING the N on the display.......it probably wasn't.

Now.......where was it I put my glasses.......:dontknow:

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I did a test!!

First off, SpyderPolly, thank you for bringing up this subject. It's topics like this that cause us to learn some of the lesser known features of our bikes. For instance, I posted last year that I discovered the Spyder with the 1330 and SE6 will not exceed 9 mph in reverse. This had not been discussed ever before that I know of. Now, thanks to you, we have before us the issue of what happens when you coast downhill in neutral.

This morning I found a long driveway, about 200 ft from a parking lot to city street. I had my 2014 RTS in neutral and idling and started coasting down the drive. I reached 20 mph when I had to brake and turn onto the street. For my second run I had the bike in 1st gear and idling. When I reached 10 mph the clutch engaged and engine compression held me to 10 mph to the end. Then I made a third run, this time in reverse and engine idling. When I reached 10 mph the clutch engaged and immediately killed the engine and the clutch disengaged. With the engine stopped and still in reverse I reached somewhere around 16 to 20 mph by the end of the drive.

Polly, based on this one test with a 1330 and SE6 your bike had to have been in reverse. What we now know is the clutch will engage if the engine is running, the bike is in gear, and coasting speed reaches 10 mph. The lesson learned here is if you are going to coast do it with a forward gear engaged. After all, this is what we do all the time when we use engine compression to slow down for a stop, or hold us back going downhill.

As an aside, I discovered some time ago that if you're going a highway and suddenly hit the kill switch, open the throttle and turn the kill switch to run. The engine will immediately restart and you can continue on almost as if nothing had happened.

 

[billybovine]

Good test. Your results are very logical and what I would expect. The wheel speed sensors tell the VCM what speed they are going. But not the direction.

 

[canamjhb]

IMS.....Thanks for your very informative post. I sometimes wondered what would happen and what I would do if I accidentally hit the kill switch at speed. Now I know.

 

[Fatcycledaddy]

IMS.....Thanks for your very informative post. I sometimes wondered what would happen and what I would do if I accidentally hit the kill switch at speed. Now I know.

Accidentally did that this past weekend at about 75 MPH. Went to put my drink back and bumped the kill switch, It was like i released or completely rolled off the throttle. I quickly slipped the drink back in the holder, then hit the kill switch again, rolled on the throttle, bike took right off, I reset the cruise and kept right on going.

Did that with the Yamaha Venture Royal one time, and the backfire it gave out sounded like a rifle shot. Scared the guy riding behind me big time. :roflblack:

That's the difference in carburetor and fuel injection. Carburetor still sucks fuel through as long as the engine is turning over, then deposits it right into the muffler. With fuel injection, when the kill switch is on, fuel stops going into the engine period.