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Rides like a snowmobile
- Thread starter flash2002
- Start date
flash2002
Member
For the Baja Ron bar there is only one that fits the 2011 rt that I can see.
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
So you prefer 30 PSI using an auto tire ........ and you said you just bought the Spyder and it's your first three wheeler .... Well do you think it's possible that you just don't know How it's supposed to feel. IMHO, before you start trying to fix something that may not be broken ..... get a 1000 mi. or so on your NEW TO YOU Spyder and then see what you think you need ..... good luck ....Mike :thumbup:
BajaRon
Well-known member
Correct. We do not make an Ultra-Bar for the 2008-2012 models.
DGoebel
Well-known member
Just for information, do the Baja Ron Front Shock Pre-load Adjusters work on 2011's (and do they provide greater adjustment than the stock adjusters?
BajaRon
Well-known member
Our shock adjusters will not work on any of the 2008-2012 models. These come with built in adjuster cams. A bit difficult to turn. But most find their sweet spot and just leave them there.
Just for information. The 2010 RT came with the worst front shocks BRP every supplied on a Spyder. The 2013 RT front shocks come in a close 2nd. BRP has been slowly improving front shocks (hydraulically) little by little since 2014. But without a way to adjust spring pre-load, their full potential cannot be achieved. I am baffled as to why BRP refuses to add adjustment to most models. The expense would be minimal and the benefits would be impressive. Add to this that the double locking ring style adjusters they use when they do provide adjustment makes it almost impossible to adjust on the bike. And the locking rings are usually so tight from the factory, that you have to remove the shock just to break them loose. Nor does BRP provide the 2 spanner wrenches needed to make adjustment.
It's almost like they begrudgingly provide adjusters on some models. But they engineered them to make it impractical to actually use them.
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Ikon 7613-1006 to fit '21 Can-Am Spyder RTL , pair
Length: 18.70"/475mm
Travel: 3.54"/90mm
Fitted with 10mm I.D. spherical bearings upper & lower mounts
Powder coated black dampers and springs
4 position finger adjustable Dial-a-Ride rebound damping
Variable spring pre-load adjustment (spanner included)
$ 828/pr + $25 insured shipping.
Comes out of Pennsylvania. Is still expensive but is $120 less than Elka's for a pair. Elka's look a little more impressive but ??
Length: 18.70"/475mm
Travel: 3.54"/90mm
Fitted with 10mm I.D. spherical bearings upper & lower mounts
Powder coated black dampers and springs
4 position finger adjustable Dial-a-Ride rebound damping
Variable spring pre-load adjustment (spanner included)
$ 828/pr + $25 insured shipping.
Comes out of Pennsylvania. Is still expensive but is $120 less than Elka's for a pair. Elka's look a little more impressive but ??
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ThreeWheels
Active member
All of my following comments are dependent on your riding style, whether or not you are aggressive around turns.
Yes, the 2010 through 2013 RTs rolled like pigs.
In my opinion, the RonBar gives you the biggest improvement per dollar spent. A massive and quite essential improvement. Those Spyders are nearly unrideable without the RonBar.
Next, you can try the spring spacers to stiffen up your suspension even more.
In my further opinion, spending big bucks on Elkas, or other suspension components is a waste of money for any further improvement. The only reason people spent money on the Elkas back then, was because Ron hadn't developed his bar until, I believe 2012, but I may be mistaken.
As others stated, the Spyder is designed as an on road snowmobile. those traits are inherent in the design.
If you have an opportunity, ride a 2014-2019 Spyder. BRP made some improvements to the suspension.
For the 2020+ model, BRP again made generational improvements to the suspension. There is always room for improvement, but the stock 2020+ suspensions are quite good.
Just my opinion, I could be wrong, and if I am, I'm sure someone on this forum point it out.
Mikey
Well-known member
I think you just about hit it on the head, exsept the part where you said shocks were a waste of money! I know it made a big change in mine, and to be quite frank, I can't wait to get rid of all the shocks they put on my 2012! I have seen better shocks on a mini bike. Yes, the newer bikes are top notch, and I would love to think someday I will be able to drop that coin to swap over! But untill then, I'll be the bike a couple bikes back at the Tail Of The Dragon!:roflblack:
flash2002
Member
Well I started to do work on the Spyder and found some problems that might or is causing the problems. One big problem I found was the rear wheel hub bearing was turning inside the hub and causing the bearing to flop around. I was lucky to find a used one in good shape and cheap, I did change the bearings not to take a chance. The other problem was the wheel alignment, the right wheel was off by 3/4 inches. I did change the rear shock in the fall that made a big difference, the old one was scrap. I think that these repairs are going to make for a better ride. I did change the spark plugs, what a job to get to them.
AndysF3S
Member
While you're at it; did you check the bushings etc. on the A arms and the rear assembly to see if they are tight or worn and sloppy?
I don't have a name for reference, but the Skidoo guys refer to several shock rebuilders in your neck of the woods that can re-valve to suit your weight and riding style if they are the rebuildable type. If not, you may need to replace them. If you have tightened down the front shocks as you describe you will have reduced the effective travel of the shock and spring. Your springs may be sagged as well, and you can see if anyone here sells higher rate front springs if you choose to go that route.
My ride is a new 22 F3S and I am new to Spyders, but my machine was skittish on the highway and I had to reduce the front and rear tire pressure to get the stock tires to sit flatter at speed; and no, they don't get hot when I run 120-140 kph on the highway and the machine is a lot more stable. Good luck with the project.
I don't have a name for reference, but the Skidoo guys refer to several shock rebuilders in your neck of the woods that can re-valve to suit your weight and riding style if they are the rebuildable type. If not, you may need to replace them. If you have tightened down the front shocks as you describe you will have reduced the effective travel of the shock and spring. Your springs may be sagged as well, and you can see if anyone here sells higher rate front springs if you choose to go that route.
My ride is a new 22 F3S and I am new to Spyders, but my machine was skittish on the highway and I had to reduce the front and rear tire pressure to get the stock tires to sit flatter at speed; and no, they don't get hot when I run 120-140 kph on the highway and the machine is a lot more stable. Good luck with the project.
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Isopedella
Well-known member
Im waiting for my F3 to "tip In" nicely. Oh well.
Dasmoetorhead
Active member
In this turn I'm actually pushing it pretty hard, and even then it's not really leaning much.
Isopedella
Well-known member
And sitting like a Statue in the park.....
If you leaned in a bit ...."kiss the mirror" technique you would could be faster and would work less.
Try it, you may like it. Closest I can get to counter-steering on my F3.
When we got my wife's '17 RT-S, we both had problems going over about 45 mph. Changed tires (Vredestein Q5) as the stock Crapendas were shot. That was a BIG help. Enjoyed the ride to Maggie Valley that fall a lot more, had a BajaRon bar installed while there. Wife's opinion of the bar was that she was not as tired after an all-day ride. We are not all that aggressive as riders, but there's not much grass that grows under us, either.
She also made an observation on what you describe as "handling like a snowmobile". She has virtually NO time on snowmobiles, but spent several summers in her youth on horses. She says it feels like a horse moving around underneath you. Just let it move and do its thing, it will still be going straight. Others have mentioned, I'll just repeat, ... you don't so much steer it as you GUIDE it.
It's good that you have found a couple of mechanical issues and have fixed them. See if you can find someone near you that can do a laser alignment. Well worth the cost, especially since you have found yours to be out by quite a bit.
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She also made an observation on what you describe as "handling like a snowmobile". She has virtually NO time on snowmobiles, but spent several summers in her youth on horses. She says it feels like a horse moving around underneath you. Just let it move and do its thing, it will still be going straight. Others have mentioned, I'll just repeat, ... you don't so much steer it as you GUIDE it.
It's good that you have found a couple of mechanical issues and have fixed them. See if you can find someone near you that can do a laser alignment. Well worth the cost, especially since you have found yours to be out by quite a bit.
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