Ride control No Got

[spydiepig]

Hi, MY RT SM5 WITH ONLY 450 MILES, HAS THE A & C PACKAGE, NO RIDE CONTROL.
BUT
SOMTIMES I GET THE RIDE CONTROL BARS IN THE LEFT SIDE OF THE SCREEN. STAYS ON AWHILE, THEN GOES AWAY.
THE AIR IN THE BAG IS @ 60 PSI. I GUESS, IT JUST IS THINKING I SHOULD HAVE THE RIDE CONTROL.
WILL HAVE DEALER REFLASH ECM AT 600 MILE.
WE RIDE TWO-UP ALL THE TIME, HAVE FRONT SPRINGS SET AT MID POINT.
WIFE HAS NO COMPLAINTS WITH RR CROSSINGS, AND I'M GETTING GOOD AT TURNS, ROCK STEADY AT 90 MPH ON FREEWAY.:yikes:
WE WENT FOR RIDE UP TO GLOBE AZ, WAS BEST TIME EVER, UP HILLS AND AROUND TWISTIES.
SO HAS ANYBODY ELSE HAD THIS SHOW UP THERE SCREEN?

 

[cjackg]

Hi, MY RT SM5 WITH ONLY 450 MILES, HAS THE A & C PACKAGE, NO RIDE CONTROL. BUT SOMTIMES I GET THE RIDE CONTROL BARS IN THE LEFT SIDE OF THE SCREEN. STAYS ON AWHILE, THEN GOES AWAY.
SO HAS ANYBODY ELSE HAD THIS SHOW UP THERE SCREEN?

Yes, I have seen this on my RT-AC (SE5) a couple of times, but very briefly and no clue as to why it is happening. I will be interested to hear if you have any luck pinning this down.

Jack

 

[NancysToy]

I did have the ride control on my RTS. Normally the display appears while adjusting, stays visible for a few seconds, then disappears. Every once in a while, when changing ride height, my display would stick, and stay displayed until the Spyder was turned off and restarted. I believe it is a programming issue in the dash display, but it could be an interfering signal on the CanBus or humidity or static causing a short in the ride height sensor input terminals. Probably not much they can do about it, but I would report it to your dealer.

 

[harddrive]

Man, is that what that is? I see it when I set the parking brake, or put it in reverse...:dontknow:. My rear air shock is leaking and has to go back to the dealer...:gaah:

 

[DougB]

There is no rear air shock. The shock and the air bag are separate units.

 

[cjackg]

There was an apparent production problem with the silver syder rt a&c.

open a rear cargo door and see if you get the orange screen that says "rear cargo door open".

If you see the air shock control icon on the left side of the display it means the jumper was not correctly inserted at the factory.

I personally spent hours, schematic in hand, tracking this problem down.

Thats simply amazing ! I do have a Silver RT AC and just checked the Switch & Jumper. Sure enough it was not in the right position! After I changed it, the "cargo door open" warning screen came up for the first time ever!
Note: My Jumper was set on 5/2 and I moved it to 6/3.

So, just how did you pin this jewel down, and even more interesting is why does it apply mainly to a Silver RT A&C ???

 

[harddrive]

If you have the ride control icon and you don't have a "rear cargo open "message,the fix is putting a jumper in the right position.

See the discussion under the Frunk thread.

Thank you...I will check it when I get it back from the shop for the air bag leak. :gaah:. Hopefully this weekend...ray:

 

[cjackg]

Glad to help.
I saw that the rear cases had switches on them and wondered why; traced out the circuit using a schematic and sort of Gilliganed into it.

I placed this on the Spydertalk forum and the only folks I heard from were Silver RT owners (about four).

Why Silver?
I don't know, but while poking around I found a production sticker that indicated the production date was on 'Shift C' which probably was the graveyard shift.

Some bleary-eyed, sleep deprived tech stuck the jumper in the wrong place.
Been there-done that.

==roger==

Sure does seem like BRP would have a bulletin out on this one if they are paying attention. and a bulletin on the vibration problem.
Guess they are leaving it up to you to fix the loose ends!

 

[cjackg]

uh, tell me do your passenger heated grips work?

That was the other thing that most had in common too -

A connector on the small passenger control panel wasn't connected.

Roger, can you give me a little more detail about finding the connector?

My wife complains often about those grips and I have felt them and thought they were barely working whereas the front ones get very hot.
Maybe they werent working at all!

 

[NancysToy]

Roger, can you give me a little more detail about finding the connector?

My wife complains often about those grips and I have felt them and thought they were barely working whereas the front ones get very hot.
Maybe they werent working at all!

If they are barely working, they probably just need to be turned up. The rear control is quite different from the front. You have to hit the "UP" control repeatedly to raise the temp a step at a time. Repeatedly hitting "DOWN" will lower the temp in stages. The "OFF" control turns things off, but then you have to start all over again. As far as I can tell, turning off the key also resets everything, and you have to start from the lowest setting again. It would be much better if this control just had high and low, like the front.

 

[NancysToy]

The connector is located on the back of the small passenger control panel.
It's easiest if you remove top layers of tupperware until you can see the back of the control panel. My connector (and the connector of at least two other Silver RT A/C) was just hanging there.

Scotty may very well be correct as to the Hi & Lo buttons having a step function but I can't see any evidence of it on the schematic.

My PE RTS had the passenger grip switch connector left off, too, but I don't know whether the factory or my tech left it that way. The switch is a pulse width modulated unit, according to the shop manual. My tech told me about the rheostat-like control, after I complained it did not work well. Due to the thickness of the passenger grip, it will not get as warm as any of us would like, but after trying the method the tech suggested, my wife can now feel it through her gloves.

 

[harddrive]

Got my RT back today...they put a new air bag in it...Thanks for the tip about the jumper under the switch panel. I changed it and now see the message when the bags are open...hyea:

I think my passenger grips are working...Do they only come on when the passenger is on the seat? I will check that next.:yes: Ready to go ride...but dang Rainy weather.

 

[NancysToy]

I agree that the control switch is PWM but I can't really see that hitting the hi or the lo buttons changes in discrete steps.

There is only one heating element in the passenger's grips (as opposed to two, hi & lo, in the driver's) so the only sane way to control the grip would be to vary the duty cycle, but it doesn't look to me as if they are variable in steps as the tech described.

I'll drag my 'scope out to the garage and check.

While the seat does have a passenger aboard switch, I think it is used for the VSS and hasn't anything to do with the heated grips.

:agree: The schematic doesn't show it, nor does it show any logic controller. It does seem to work that way, though. Maybe it just is difficult to get it to make contact. Maybe it was just an intermittent switch on my RTS. Or maybe it is just another Jedi mind control thing.

I also agree that the passenger seat switch does not appear to be part of the circuit, no matter what the techs say. Only the load shedding relay is involved.

Difficult situation with the rear passenger grip heaters. The thick plastic grips cannot handle a hotter heating element, yet they insulate the heater, so they need more power. It will be interesting to see if the BRP engineers can resolve this issue in the future.

 

[granpa in Cincy]

There was an apparent production problem with the silver syder rt a&c.

Not just the silver. My Blue one has same symptom.

 

[spydiepig]

Still no ride control??

My dealer, checked the sofware, and all is up todate, but still get the icon for ride control in the lcd, every time I go from N to 1 st then R it comes on then goes off after I shift back to 1 st.
After reading about the silver RT conector, I tryed that, and I do not get a cargo door warning, I have tryed to get one by leaving both side bags open the shifting into 1 st nothing ??
So he is calling BRP back. I did tell him about the silver RT conector being wrong, but mine is BLUE.
So still waiting.

 

[Lamonster]

I talked to a tech about this and he gives you props for figuring it out. I guess only a few RT's got shipped to the US that were wired for the Euro market. I guess you guys were the lucky ones.

 

[spydiepig]

THATS IT, THANKS

THAT WAS THE PROBLEM, CALLED THE DEALER AND TOLD THEM I FIXED IT.
AS I LOOKED AT IT, I SEE WHY THAT CONECTOR IS THAT WAY, IF YOU DO HAVE THE RIDE CONTROL THAT CONECTOR WOULD BE WHAT THE CONTROL SWITCH PLUGS INTO. AND AS THE WIRES ARE RUNNING TO THE REAR THEY JUST INCLUDED THE WIRES FOR THE CARGO BOX MICRO SWITCHES INTO THE SAME BUNDLE, THEY, JUST, WHERE NOT PAYING ATENTION AND PLUGED THE JUMPER INTO THE WRONG HOLES.
SO A BIG THANKS TO YOU FOR FIGURING THAT OUT.:bowdown:

 

[clueless]

uh, tell me do your passenger heated grips work?

That was the other thing that most had in common too -

A connector on the small passenger control panel wasn't connected.

did you have NO heat? I have an RTS and the one grip passenger gets mildly warm and the other barely warm at all on the rear. that is HIGH or LOW setting the same or pushing high multiple times no difference (as I see now that is just a mind trick as it really does not make a difference pushing repeatedly).

but wonder if the one side being low maybe a problem with the thermostat or something. or it that is the way it is always.

 

[clueless]

Check the connector to the control panel and the crossover connector to the other side.

ok thanks will do that sometime over the winter... hopefully ...

is there a connector on both sides? or is the wire hard wired into the other handgrip and just the crossover wire plugs into the connector with the controller?

 

[granpa in Cincy]

Well congratulations!

I haven't heard from anyone other than silver rt a/c with the problem.

Check the location of the jumper & let me know.

Took me awhile but today I moved it per what you found and it fixed it.

I now have trunk open warning. Thanks.