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HowTo: Replace the Windsheld Arm with Billet Aluminum Arm.
- Thread starter ThreeWheels
- Start date
Sopher
New member
I printed mine in High Temp PLA that has a 6000psi tensile strength.
I can print in CarbonFiber PETG that is extremely stiff.
However, I firmly believe that the reason _why_ the original part breaks is due to torsional stresses induced from periodic road conditions with pot holes etc. The original part basically has no give and then the metal just fatigues.
I can print in CarbonFiber PETG that is extremely stiff.
However, I firmly believe that the reason _why_ the original part breaks is due to torsional stresses induced from periodic road conditions with pot holes etc. The original part basically has no give and then the metal just fatigues.
noboot
Member
Correct, The movement particularly sideways of the windscreen is a participating factor to the fatigue of the OEM part.
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
I dis-agree, the BRP arm is ( from what I've seen of broken ones ) cast metal , maybe an alloy. ….. It just isn't very strong …. and compounded by all the deep reliefs in the arms …. If those reliefs weren't there I don't they would be failing at the rate they do..... The reliefs serve No purpose other than to Weaken the part ….. Mike
hyea:
PMK
Active member
Semi reviving an old topic.
Years ago I purchased the NoBoot machined billet aluminum windscreen arm. Our original never failed, and available time did not have me accomplish installing the NoBoot part until last week. I had already removed many bodypanels, so accessing the windscreen arm was simply a matter of removing the windscreen itself and mounting bracket.
The video showed marking parts as needed for correct reassembly. The bearing cap fasteners easily removed, however I learned that BRP adds a drop or more of what appears to be Super Glue to help secure the bearing caps when originally assembled. The gear end bearing cap easily removed with the Super Glue giving up with a slight pry as shown in the NoBoot video.
The position sensor magnet end bearing cap was glued together with more than a simple drop. In simple terms, the Super Glue applied was too much, and wound up wicking into the entire aft mating surface of the bearing cap and housing assembly. Simply prying the cap would not release it. Without fear, I used a new single edge razor blade, and worked it carefully into the glued joint. I also utilized a wide blade Xacto knife as needed. Ultimately, the Super Glue was weakened and the bearing cap released without damage.
I utilized the specialty removal tools supplied with the machined windscreen arm and with essentially no effort removed the magnet assembly from the shaft.
Removing the original was easy after removing the roll pins. The new arm slid on well, then the shaft created a small burr on the aluminum. I removed the shaft and lightly chamfered the end of the shaft with a fine file. Accomplishing that, the arm slid on with a very accurate precision fit. The roll pin holes were accurate and the pins installed nicely. I expect the slight chamfer on the shaft also eased reinstallation of the magnet assembly.
In short, the shaft assembly task was relatively easy, and assembled with a quality fit.
Next, utilizing the previous alignment marks everything was positioned, reassembled and secured.
The first ride with the new machined windscreen arm was 200 miles to the Deland event. Without doubt, the windscreen is more stable at speed and less jittery with road imperfections.
Yes, I waited a while to install the upgrade windscreen arm, no regrets in waiting, but now am far more confident in the windscreen setup. Wanted to add, our windscreen itself is the F4 standard series, so it is a bit wider than oem, so the added stability is quite noticeable.
Thanks Ron / NoBoot for a great product at a price that is easily fair considering the quality of the part and included tools to make the task very easy.
Years ago I purchased the NoBoot machined billet aluminum windscreen arm. Our original never failed, and available time did not have me accomplish installing the NoBoot part until last week. I had already removed many bodypanels, so accessing the windscreen arm was simply a matter of removing the windscreen itself and mounting bracket.
The video showed marking parts as needed for correct reassembly. The bearing cap fasteners easily removed, however I learned that BRP adds a drop or more of what appears to be Super Glue to help secure the bearing caps when originally assembled. The gear end bearing cap easily removed with the Super Glue giving up with a slight pry as shown in the NoBoot video.
The position sensor magnet end bearing cap was glued together with more than a simple drop. In simple terms, the Super Glue applied was too much, and wound up wicking into the entire aft mating surface of the bearing cap and housing assembly. Simply prying the cap would not release it. Without fear, I used a new single edge razor blade, and worked it carefully into the glued joint. I also utilized a wide blade Xacto knife as needed. Ultimately, the Super Glue was weakened and the bearing cap released without damage.
I utilized the specialty removal tools supplied with the machined windscreen arm and with essentially no effort removed the magnet assembly from the shaft.
Removing the original was easy after removing the roll pins. The new arm slid on well, then the shaft created a small burr on the aluminum. I removed the shaft and lightly chamfered the end of the shaft with a fine file. Accomplishing that, the arm slid on with a very accurate precision fit. The roll pin holes were accurate and the pins installed nicely. I expect the slight chamfer on the shaft also eased reinstallation of the magnet assembly.
In short, the shaft assembly task was relatively easy, and assembled with a quality fit.
Next, utilizing the previous alignment marks everything was positioned, reassembled and secured.
The first ride with the new machined windscreen arm was 200 miles to the Deland event. Without doubt, the windscreen is more stable at speed and less jittery with road imperfections.
Yes, I waited a while to install the upgrade windscreen arm, no regrets in waiting, but now am far more confident in the windscreen setup. Wanted to add, our windscreen itself is the F4 standard series, so it is a bit wider than oem, so the added stability is quite noticeable.
Thanks Ron / NoBoot for a great product at a price that is easily fair considering the quality of the part and included tools to make the task very easy.
Hi All, I bought the arm and replaced it on my 2011 RT, it seemed to work OK for awhile and started to miss when I tried to move windshield up/down. I took all apart again and it seems that the Gear wheel is good but that the base had stripped (found a few small broken plastic pieces on wheel). Now it skips when I try to put it back together, any help would be appreciated, do I need to replace the base (GGrrr it is all one big piece which will cost $$$). Any other suggestions would be appreciated.....HELP !!!!!
Noboot, bought this from you a couple of years ago.
Noboot, bought this from you a couple of years ago.
noboot
Member
Reading your post I gather the gear cog in the base is breaking. If that's the case I suggest you find someone that is wrecking a Spyder and purchase the entire base assembly and then replace yours with it on your bike and use your "new" arm.
That is exactly what I am trying to do but not easy to find a second hand one and we are able to ride by next week March 15, 2020 (winter tire law expires on that date). If I can't find one by next week, I may just put it back together and leave the windshield up and try to sell it that way. I have to but my new used 2018 by Mid April 2020 and want to have this one sold by then (if possible.....LOL).
ThreeWheels
Active member
I just picked up the 2020 RTL.
The center power arm appears to be the same design, but I can't be certain because it's painted black.
I can say, however, that the windshield seems more secure and doesn't bounce around as much as my two previous Spyders.
The center power arm appears to be the same design, but I can't be certain because it's painted black.
I can say, however, that the windshield seems more secure and doesn't bounce around as much as my two previous Spyders.
noboot
Member
I guess time will tell. Fingers crossed they have learnt to improve not just the looks and style but quality of the components
HELP !!!!! I found the gear and motor assembly in Canada and ordered it, I got it today and went to fix the arm. NOW, I have another issue, The arm goes UP when I press the UP on the handlebar for the windshield. When I press the DOWN on the handlebar for the windshield to go DOWN, I get nothing? It doesn't try to go DOWN? When I press the button, I don't even hear the motor engage, I hear nothing? Any suggestions? A friend mentioned that he doesn't think that it has anything to do with the magnet, he thinks that it may be a sensor on the handlebar where I press DOWN, I opened the piece on the handlebar and tried to giggled the wires to see if it may be a loose connection, nothing (the wires seem very tight to the UP/DOWN switch).
Any advice will be welcome, I am out of ideas.
Any advice will be welcome, I am out of ideas.
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
Windshield motor assembly
hyea:
It is possible that the magnet isn't properly lining up with the trigger .... it's similar to what stops the elevator at the correct floor no more / no less ..... I can't guess why or how yours doesn't align. ...... good luck .... Mike
hyea:I tried positioning the arm at the bottom and going up a click each time and trying to press the DOWN button but nothing happened. When I press the UP button at each position, the arm moved UP? Really weird? Someone mentioned:
it has to do with the magnet position on the left end. I left the top clamps off and kept repositioning the coller. That did not cure it. I finally had to pop the magnet out and shaved the plastic a little and glued the magnet in once it worked properly
I may try this tomorrow
it has to do with the magnet position on the left end. I left the top clamps off and kept repositioning the coller. That did not cure it. I finally had to pop the magnet out and shaved the plastic a little and glued the magnet in once it worked properly
I may try this tomorrow
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