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HowTo: Replace the Windsheld Arm with Billet Aluminum Arm.

I WOULD BUT

May I ask where you got the billet arm? I'd like to get one!
:yikes:......You ask questions ....and have gotten answers here .............But don't indicate that you have followed up,..... so therefore :dontknow:.........Mike :thumbup:
 
Australia's Spyder Royale

Last Weekend We had our annual SPYDER ROYALE which is the equivalent to the USA SPYDERFEST (but in a lot smaller way) and we found eleven (11) RT's with cracked Windscreen arms. Maybe our roads down under are a lot harder on the Spyders
 
I have my Alloy arm listed on e-bay if anyone is interested in a purchase as I have not yet secured a vendor within the USA to sell them.
 
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I too have this aftermarket arm just in case. Not knowing how long this part would be available I ordered. It just amazes me that the company has not yet changed this part. I suppose you just have to follow the money. Too costly for BRP or is it something else?
 
REMOVAL OF MAGNET END

Yep! Fair comment. Once we came up with the "Wedges" or "Shims" we decided it was safer to remove the Gear wheel than the magnet end to the proximity switch. There was more room for leverage on the wheel than on the magnet end. Maybe when we do the next one we'll have another look at the magnet end. Although with every arm I am now supplying a set of wedges included and they appear to be working as intended. We did another RT last weekend and let the owner do most of it himself and the wedges worked fine. Can't stress how important it is to mark all the points indicated in the video so the arm goes back in exactly as it came out otherwise you may find it doesn't go up and down correctly.

If you are happy to remove the magnet end are confident in not damaging it or the hex shaft, do so as removing one end would be as good as the other.
Cheers, ron
:yes::yes:.........Ron, I went a step farther on the wedge thing.....I made a pair which are slotted in the middle to go around the HEX shaft.......I then put them in a vise opposing each other with the HEX shaft in the middle ......As I close the vise it gently slides the MAGNET END off.....I actually tried both ends , but the magnet end goes off much easier because there is a lot less surface contact therefore less friction.......Works like a charm................Mike :thumbup:
 
Noboot - thanks for doing this! Having your windshield flop in your face 1300 miles from home is not a fun experience, and several on SL can attest to.
 
Dragonrider,
That is the only reason We make these replacement arms is the safety factor. There is no profit in them as the hours put into making them doesn't equal the cost.

The same here in Australia we have had a few break at speed and the danger and risk of an accident is high.

One of the side products of the new arm is less flex in the windscreen as well.

Cheers, noboot
 
Seems to me there's "an elephant in the room". WHY DOESN"T BRP RESPOND TO THIS SAFETY ISSUE WITH A STRONGER ARM??????????????????????
 
I'M BETTING !!!!

FWIW, I had the windscreen support off recently. Oddly, the brass bushings, (3 of them) had corroded into the bores. Was able to draw them out with spacers and a longer screw.

More important than the corrosion though, was that the bushing lengths are short and it is possible (no I did not do this) to crush and distort the hinge tabs on the windscreen support if the screws are tightened. Since these screws can not be made tight, they must be Loctited.

PK
A combination of salt air and dissimilar metals......Also if your windshield rattles / shakes etc., I have a " hollow punch " set and made some very thin washers from the plastic top of a Kool Whip container. I put one each on the outside of the upper arms and my windshield no longer rattles. The plastic is very slippery so it's self lubricating ........Mike :thumbup:
 
YOUR / THIS ..ISSUE

Mike, salt air is the least of the issue in my opinion. Yes, galvanic corrosion from three different metals, brass bushing, stainless screw and washer and pot aluminum windsceen V shaped mount, but what is worse is that with the oem bushing being short the water remains trapped in the voids under the washer. Even worse than that is if you use even the slightest amount of grease, the Loctite does not work if the holes are polluted. The corrosion likely occurred from the aluminum to stainless which easily happens, and the effected area would be directly under gap between the brass bushings end and the washer.

This was the first removal of the windscreen mount since new. So about 14 months of use.

As for the additional plastic washer, the area of concern uses flanged plastic bushing if I recall correctly, so I should be good there.

I'll sort something out to correct this minor concern. Probably order some brass rod and make new bushings in the lathe. Just to many other things going on currently.

I should get a billet center arm and do this all at once. Reliability is a good thing.

PK

In Vt salt air is not in the mix....I've had mine apart recently ( to fix the rattle ) and I have NO corrosion. That's why I thought the Salt Air might be an issue. Sorry......:thumbup:
 
So...I like the billet arm, but then it doesn't match the other 2 arms... any plans on making the other 2 arms so they match forc aesthetic purposes?
 
ordered one yesterday

We were all packed for the long weekend and 30 miles into our ride to the mountains. I hear her over the intercom something broke on my windshield. Sure enough the support arm on the her 2012 RT had snapped. We turn round and head home. She had no desire to ride on the FJR so everything went into the car. Got home last night to search this site and found this info and placed an order.
Taking the bike into the shop to confirm if it will be covered under the extended warranty. I will have this as a spare if it is covered. If not I will be doing a bit of work on the existing unit.
 
OMG

So...I like the billet arm, but then it doesn't match the other 2 arms... any plans on making the other 2 arms so they match forc aesthetic purposes?

REALLY...This is your concern with this issue......not the fact that if the ARM breaks it will cost you $ 750 + to fix it if it's not under Warranty............I'm sorry for the RANT but this attitude totally blows my mind :yikes: :yikes: :yikes: :yikes: :yikes: .......Mike :thumbup:
 
REALLY...This is your concern with this issue......not the fact that if the ARM breaks it will cost you $ 750 + to fix it if it's not under Warranty............I'm sorry for the RANT but this attitude totally blows my mind :yikes: :yikes: :yikes: :yikes: :yikes: .......Mike :thumbup:


If it ends up being something I eventually have to fix, I want it done right and not have it look like a mismatched after thought...
 
AS I SEE THIS

If it ends up being something I eventually have to fix, I want it done right and not have it look like a mismatched after thought...

You Sir are apparently someone who demands PERFECTION SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO, why do you even own a Spyder .....:roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:.......Mike :thumbup:
 
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