Removing ECU for stage 2 flash

[ssmcclub]

When putting the flashed ECU back on the bike, do you have to push the little tab to get it to lock onto the bike again?

 

[308gunner]

When putting the flashed ECU back on the bike, do you have to push the little tab to get it to lock onto the bike again?

No, you just push the tab to remove the ECU.

 

[Sampi1099]

I have a 2012 Spyder RT Limited with the 998 v-twin and I just sent my ECU off to Wick-it in LA. It's there for a Stage 2 reflash. Waiting on the return of it. I did not unhook my battery, so I hope it will be ok.

 

[ssmcclub]

ok thank you 308gunner

 

[308gunner]

When putting the flashed ECU back on the bike, do you have to push the little tab to get it to lock onto the bike again?

Are you removing it or installing it?

 

[KidDoc]

99 times out of 100 there will be no problems leaving the battery connected. But an accidental contact between a hot component and the frame (or in my case a wrench touching a hot component and frame) can lead to disaster. With the ECU removal/reinstall I would always disconnect the ground wire from the battery to be on the safe side.

 

[Peteoz]

I have a 2012 Spyder RT Limited with the 998 v-twin and I just sent my ECU off to Wick-it in LA. It's there for a Stage 2 reflash. Waiting on the return of it. I did not unhook my battery, so I hope it will be ok.

Sampi, there is no NEED to disconnect the battery. See the other replies above. No issues were encountered leaving it in, and the instructions do not ask you to disconnect it. :thumbup:

Pete

 

[Sampi1099]

Pete thank you for your reply. I have read that a lot of people get a Stage 1; and then you see them sending it back for the Stage II reflash. Is there that much difference between the two?

 

[Peteoz]

Pete thank you for your reply. I have read that a lot of people get a Stage 1; and then you see them sending it back for the Stage II reflash. Is there that much difference between the two?

Unfortunately, I can’t answer that, Sampi, as I never had the Stage 1. All I can tell you is that the Stage 2 was done with me still using the stock pipes and air (I’m not after improving 1/4 mile times), and the F3 behaves just the same as stock at slower speeds, but really gets up and goes when you twist it. I was going to get the Stage 1 from ECUXtreme, primarily to fix the lag when hitting the freeway in too high a gear, but Jase kindly did the level 2 for me. And also bear in mind that the Aussie ECU Xtreme flash may be slightly different from the US versions. Sorry.

Pete

 

[jjpgator]

Anybody have any error codes pop after stage 2 flash? I have a 2018 F3S. Did a Stage 2 flash, cat delete, and K&N air filter. After about a week, the check engine light came on and shows code P0172. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[troop]

What are the Possible Causes of the P0172 Code?

Like any other OBD-II code, a P0172 can be caused by a variety of problems. In other words, there is no easy way to pinpoint what’s causing the problem other than examining the critical parts responsible for maintaining the right fuel mixture.

Here are the different possible reasons why you’re getting the engine code P0172:

A leaking fuel injector
Excessive fuel pressure due to restriction along the fuel return line or a faulty fuel pressure regulator
Filthy air filter
Restrictions somewhere in the air intake system
Clogging due to buildup or physical damage in these exhaust components: catalytic converter, exhaust pipe, and muffler
Faulty O2 sensor
Exhaust leak
Problems with other sensors (e.g., coolant temperature sensor, mass airflow sensor)
Circuit issues, such as loose connections and damaged wiring
Issues with the PCM, such as software in need of an update

You might want to contact Wick-it or Monster...

 

[RICZ]

QUESTIONS....
Since an ECU Stage 2 flash is on the table, I am wondering...
+ What does it do for engine performance, fuel mileage, etc. if I leave everything else stock except for a RLS cat delete with baffle?
+ Are there sources other than Wick-it?
+ How much?

 

[troop]

Not having a Monster/Wick-it flashed ECU, I can't comment on mpg's. Wick-It is the USA partner of Monster, which is located in Canada. Last I knew, cost was:
Stage 1: $395
Stage 2: $515 Stage 2 requires sending in your air filter cover cap to be drilled for (2) holes.
https://www.monsterfuelinjection.com/spyder
https://wick-itperformance.com/shop-products/ols/products/monster-fuel-injection-can-am-spyder

1330cc Flash

Ultra smooth throttle transitions
+15% torque increase, up to +20% horsepower
Roll-on power is improved 1000-5000 rpm.
New Ultra wide power band gives vast power gains 5000 rpm to redline
91 Octane Tune (can use 93 to promote best power output)
Works with every combination of stock exhaust, cat delete or free flow muffler
Retains factory mapping, feedback systems and fuel mileage under half throttle
Stock 8100 or 8600 rpm limiter choice (or anywhere 8800-9200 at user’s discretion)

 

[RICZ]

Thanks for that reply Troop. A drawback to stage 2 is the narrowing of the octane band to 91 or even higher. That could cause a problem when needing gas at a one pump station out in the boonies. Otherwise, it will increase the yee haw factor by a ton.