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Removing Cat Converter

Comedyjoe1

New member
Can anyone give me any advice about replacing Cat Converter with a crossover pipe on a 2012 RT Ltd :yikes:, like degree of difficulty? Special tools needed? Code resetting? Any information about this process would be appreciated.:bowdown:
 
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Can anyone give me any advice about replacing Cat Converter with a crossover pipe on a 2012 RT Ltd :yikes:, like degree of difficulty? Special tools needed? Code resetting? Any information about this process would be appreciated.:bowdown:
I have a 14 RT and didn't have to re-set ( ie BUDS ) for codes, just let it IDLE so it can adjust for missing CAT......can't help with anything else because mine was a 1330......... Mike :thumbup:
 
Removing Cat

Can anyone give me any advice about replacing Cat Converter with a crossover pipe on a 2012 RT Ltd :yikes:, like degree of difficulty? Special tools needed? Code resetting? Any information about this process would be appreciated.:bowdown:

Well, let's try to fill in the blanks some for you.

Unless you or a friend can build the pipe yourself -without having to pay at the shop rate - your going to need one of these...

http://www.pitbullpowersportsinc.co...l.htm?productId=-546336&catalogId=-3774&fpg=1

Now, you won't be disappointed in the quality and workmanship. It's stainless steel pipe and built like a brick **** house. You'll also need a set of these....

http://www.pitbullpowersportsinc.co...l.htm?productId=-546330&catalogId=-3774&fpg=1

You won't be able to save the old ones, but you will be able to re-use the rear gasket that goes to the muffler.

So, as you can see, the investment is just a little over 400 bucks. No special tools. Since you own a Spyder, you need to have a set of metric wrenches, sockets, and hex bits, anyway. There's only one spring on the right side exhaust joint. You can get a spring tool, but I found vice grips just as good. You'll need to jack it up and stabilize it with jack stands or work on a lift.

So, what do you get for your money. Don't get me wrong - I never want to talk anybody out of doing any mod, but you shouldn't see this as the Holy Grail of performance mods. You won't see an increase in mileage, so the mod will never pay for itself. You'll see a little more torquey-ness on acceleration. Most of us did this mod years ago in order to eliminate the heat on the gas tank and under the body work. If the heat issue is your objective, you can accomplish that much more economically by just installing the 2013 RT recall scoops on your 2012. They fit and work well. The Electronic Fuel Injection system will take care of itself and return the air-fuel ratio back to where it started from, so no worries there and no codes should show up. And don't worry about any new sounds you're hearing from the exhaust note. They were there all along. It's not running too lean. As I said, the EFI is taking care of itself.

Hit all the nuts and bolts at the joints with some PB Blaster overnight before you start. If you can take stuff apart and put stuff back together without parts left over, it's a job that you can handle. Although it helps to have a second person to lend a hand when needed. Good luck with it.
 
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