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Remove Front Drive Sprocket HELP!!

elkk

elkk

New member
On a friends 2008 RS SE5 - when in gear the front drive sprocket is not turning, but the bolt (and shaft) is turning. So either the shaft splines or the front sprocket splines are worn down or gone. I am trying to remove the front sprocket bolt with an air impact gun but before I lay in to it I need to know if the bolt is reverse thread? Does the bolt unscrew clockwise or counter clockwise? I need a DEFINITE answer. HELP Please ASAP Thanks

*** RESOLVED - SEE PICTURES BELOW ***

4/10/15

Today we decided he had nothing to loose so we ground the weld off around the bolt being careful not to destroy the bolt head, hit it with the impact wrench and bingo, off it came
pepper2.gif
. Luckily the output shaft is nearly perfect, the splines on the pulley are completely gone. Still can't figure out why someone would weld it instead of replacing the $100 pulley, oh well. Ordered a new pulley, washer and bolt today. He should be back in business soon. Thanks for your all your replies, ideas and well wishes. I certainly learned alot, again I say it sure gives you a good feeling to accomplish what you thought impossible.

FYI I can assure you the bolt is standard thread, right to tighten.
 

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Broken Socket Extension

Well the bolt is not going to come out. Someone has previously welded the forward pulley to the bolt/shaft. The weld has failed which started this mess.

We first tried 2 different air impact guns...nothing. Last resort we started it up, put the SE5 in reverse, applied the parking and regular brakes, used a socket on a ratchet with a cheater bar turning in a counter clockwise direction, gave it some gas and snapped the 2 inch long Craftsman 1/2 inch drive extension off at the socket...done. The bolt is there forever.

Options are tear it down and replace the shaft (not available) and pulley, way to costly for a 2008 GS, or have it re-welded and hope for the best. Obviously is off to the welder.

Of course there was no mention of this problem for the previous owner but it may have been that way when he bought it used also. Live and learn.

I'll be checking my forward (primary) pulley bolt and torquing it to 100lbs on Saturday. I will also take some tension off the drive belt as a preventative measure.
 
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WELDING

:yikes::yikes::yikes:....Bummer, that really S*ucks............On the welding thing.....if you can drill a few holes in the crack between pieces so the welder can get some material in there , the weld will be much stronger...............Good Luck :thumbup:.......................................................................Dis-regard my advice, post # 6 & 8 sound lots better :2thumbs:
 
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elkk said:
Well the bolt is not going to come out. Someone has previously welded the forward pulley to the bolt/shaft. The weld has failed which started this mess.

We first tried 2 different air impact guns...nothing. Last resort we started it up, put the SE5 in reverse, applied the parking and regular brakes, used a socket on a ratchet with a cheater bar turning in a counter clockwise direction, gave it some gas and snapped the 2 inch long Craftsman 1/2 inch drive extension off at the socket...done. The bolt is there forever.

Options are tear it down and replace the shaft (not available) and pulley, way to costly for a 2008 GS, or have it re-welded and hope for the best. Obviously is off to the welder.

Of course there was no mention of this problem for the previous owner but it may have been that way when he bought it used also. Live and learn.

I'll be checking my forward (primary) pulley bolt and torquing it to 100lbs on Saturday. I will also take some tension off the drive belt as a preventative measure.
Click to expand...
there is a machine called edm which can electronically disolve medal selectively it's used to remove a broken easy out or something like that
 
Bummer..!!

looks like someone stripped the splines out and faced the same problem you are having now. Remember there are oil seals involved and heating up the shaft when welding can damage them and they are behind the weld. May be a slow process good luck...:thumbup:
 
Front Drive Pulley

elkk said:
Well the bolt is not going to come out. Someone has previously welded the forward pulley to the bolt/shaft. The weld has failed which started this mess.

We first tried 2 different air impact guns...nothing. Last resort we started it up, put the SE5 in reverse, applied the parking and regular brakes, used a socket on a ratchet with a cheater bar turning in a counter clockwise direction, gave it some gas and snapped the 2 inch long Craftsman 1/2 inch drive extension off at the socket...done. The bolt is there forever.

Options are tear it down and replace the shaft (not available) and pulley, way to costly for a 2008 GS, or have it re-welded and hope for the best. Obviously is off to the welder.

Of course there was no mention of this problem for the previous owner but it may have been that way when he bought it used also. Live and learn.

I'll be checking my forward (primary) pulley bolt and torquing it to 100lbs on Saturday. I will also take some tension off the drive belt as a preventative measure.
Click to expand...


I'd also recommend a trip to a speciality welding/machine shop that has an EDM (Electro Discharge Machine), this can be used to remove the head of the bolt. This would allow getting the pulley off to see just how bad is the situation, Shaft or Pulley Splines stripped or both. The EDM will not input much heat into the shaft to damage the seals. According to the exploded drawings there is originally a large flat washer between the Head of the bolt and the Pulley. Once you have the Pulley removed you can determine if you just need a new pulley or a new shaft or both. An EDM could be used to recut the shaft splines. Starts to look like a "Build a SPYDER" project. There ought to be some wrecked SPYDER out there someplace that has the parts you need.
Good luck!
 
UPDATE...GOOD NEWS!!

Today we decided he had nothing to loose so we ground the weld off around the bolt being careful not to destroy the bolt head, hit it with the impact wrench and bingo, off it came:yes:. Luckily the output shaft is nearly perfect, the splines on the pulley are completely gone. Still can't figure out why someone would weld it instead of replacing the $100 pulley, oh well. Ordered a new pulley, washer and bolt today. He should be back in business soon. Thanks for your all your replies, ideas and well wishes. I certainly learned alot, again I say it sure gives you a good feeling to accomplish what you thought impossible.

FYI I can assure you the bolt is standard thread, right to tighten.
 
When you replace the pulley, the torque on the bolt should be 81 ft lbs. The 08 and 09 models had a lot of problems with the front pulleys getting loose, and quite a few people had to replace the countershaft, not cheap! I'm not sure how they got the bolts to stay in, but it's a good idea to check the bolt every so often just to be on the safe side.

john
 
Use a paint pen and mark the position of the bolt against the pulley. This will allow you to visually check to see if the bolt has moved. I wouldn't recommend retorquing that bolt more than once or twice.
Also, the newer pulleys are a bit different and seem to stay in place better.
 
front pully

yes NEW bolt and washer recommended and lock tight if you notice the belt walking left ad right first stop to check is the front pulley bolt

the new pulley will have a inner guard the old one did not have keeps the belt from gong against the engine case
 
Front pulley

Had one last month on an RT that was loose. Turned out the pulley splines were worn. R/R pulley and bolts. Covered by warrantee.
 
Pulley and Shaft Pictures

Here are pictures of the mess we had but a new pulley will fix it. This 2008 RS SE5 has 24k miles on it.
 

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