Recommended synthetic oil brand/weight for hot states?

[Michael211_2000]

On this note, what if any oil additives are safe in these Rotax engines? I like to run a little STP oil treatment in my engines, and occasionally put some SeaFoam in the crankcase oil (most often when I'm ~100 miles or so from an oil change, just to help clean out any crud that's built up in the crankcase).

Are these additives safe for the Spyder engine if used as directed?

Thanks.

ps. Before my previous oil change I did top-off with some STP oil treatment and ran another 500 miles till the oil change with no noticeable harm. I've added a small amount of SeaFoam to the fuel tank after filling up on occasion, but haven't tried it in the Rotax crankcase oil yet...

- Michael

 

[DrewNJ]

Yes, you can mix and match with no issues.

Personally, I'm not into oil additives. Modern day oils are so good to the point where additional additives just aren't really needed.

 

[BajaRon]

On this note, what if any oil additives are safe in these Rotax engines? I like to run a little STP oil treatment in my engines, and occasionally put some SeaFoam in the crankcase oil (most often when I'm ~100 miles or so from an oil change, just to help clean out any crud that's built up in the crankcase).

Are these additives safe for the Spyder engine if used as directed?

Thanks.

ps. Before my previous oil change I did top-off with some STP oil treatment and ran another 500 miles till the oil change with no noticeable harm. I've added a small amount of SeaFoam to the fuel tank after filling up on occasion, but haven't tried it in the Rotax crankcase oil yet...

- Michael

I would definitely not use STP or any similar additive in the Spyder. You run a pretty good risk of clutch slippage. That is why there is a JASO rating on MC oils. Adding STP (or similar) is going to lower that JASO rating. Once your clutch starts slipping it is likely that you'll need an expensive clutch replacement. Definitely not worth it.

As mentioned by DrewNJ, current (good quality) oils are very good. Adding things to them is playing Russian Roulette with your motor. Again, just not worth it in my opinion.

Adding Sea-Foam type products to the crank case is going to lower your viscosity. This is also not good, especially with old oil that has already lost a great deal of viscosity due to shear, etc.

I would consider adding Sea Foam and running the engine without load (in your driveway) just before an oil change. The Sea Foam will clean the innards of your engine/transmission. But I would not add it with new oil. A lower viscosity isn't nearly as critical when the engine is not under load. But honestly, if you're doing timely oil and filter changes there is little, if any, 'Crud' buildup in your Rotax motor.

 

[Mortis]

oil

I use an 10W-60 fully synthetic oil in my Spyder. The 60 grade can stand more heat and works very well.
The problem with an oil that is not after JASO is that the ash content normally is to high and will make the clutch slip. (JASO say lower than 1,2%)Sulfate Ash= sulfur and phosphorus

I have been testing a car oil ACEA A3/B4 (API SM, SL, CF) 10W-60 fully synthetic in a BMW S1000RR super bike and this works very well.(ash content was 1,3%)
NO clutch slipping after one season.

An JASO spec oil will never get the same performance as a car spec oil because you can not additivate it so high (Some of the additives will give to high ash content and make the clutch slip)

 

[MikeinGA]

I would definitely not use STP or any similar additive in the Spyder. You run a pretty good risk of clutch slippage. That is why there is a JASO rating on MC oils. Adding STP (or similar) is going to lower that JASO rating. Once your clutch starts slipping it is likely that you'll need an expensive clutch replacement. Definitely not worth it.

As mentioned by DrewNJ, current (good quality) oils are very good. Adding things to them is playing Russian Roulette with your motor. Again, just not worth it in my opinion.

Adding Sea-Foam type products to the crank case is going to lower your viscosity. This is also not good, especially with old oil that has already lost a great deal of viscosity due to shear, etc.

I would consider adding Sea Foam and running the engine without load (in your driveway). A lower viscosity isn't nearly as critical when the engine is not under load. But honestly, if you're doing timely oil and filter changes there is little, if any, 'Crud' buildup in your Rotax motor.

:agree: What you want to do is go the Amsoil website and ask the professionals. I use Amsoil 10W-40 motorcycle oil here in Georgia and it lasts for 6,000 miles and is still in good condition and could used safely for another 1,000 miles. That's IMHO.

Mike

 

[Michael211_2000]

Well my clutch isn't slipping my rpm's match my speedo readings spot-on in every gear in spite of having some STP Oil Treatment in the crankcase. I don't believe it's hurting anything, can't really say if it's helping anything or not though either.

Still will definitely use SeaFoam in the tank every so often, it's been found to be very good in SeaDoo Rotax engines and I use it in the fuel systems of my jet boat and other vehicles to keep them running smoothly too. May not put it in the Spyder Rotax crankcase at least for now though, with only a little over 7k miles on it it's unlikely there are any deposits of build-up in the engine for it to dissolve anyways. My truck however does have over 230K miles on it so I'm fairly certain it benefits from having it's crankcase oil treated!

Thanks for the opinions though I do appreciate them and take them under advisement.

- Michael

 

[south GA Farm Boy]

mixing engine oil

MikeinGA, do mix any other oil if you are on the road and need some in your spyder?
Also what part of GA do you live in? I am in Nashville, GA close to Tifton and Valdosta!

 

[SteveLaoyster]

Another thread...

Here is more reading for you about oil in another thread....

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?97388-Break-in-Information&p=1176549#post1176549

Not sure if I did this right. Looks like I did.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

MIXING OIL

If I were running in a hot climate all the time I'd be mixing in a quart of 20w50.
However, currently I just run the BRP kit year round with no issues.

:agree: .... and I mix one 20w50 to four 10w40 ....full syn Valvoline's.....................Mike :thumbup:

 

[Aracknoid]

Synthetic oil brand

I have been using Mobil 1 for more than 100.000 miles in my bikes. My last car currently has more than than 300,000 miles using Mobil 1. Of course I am not using the same mobil 1 in the car as I am for the bikes.

The key is to use the oil that will protect the clutch, lube the rotating parts and reduce the wear. Oil changes are paramount, to any engine's life.

For more information go to: WWW.Bobstheoilguy.com. This site has more information than you may want, but it is not advervt for any brand. He can take questions and is very quick with a response.

Good Luck

 

[dsteve931]

Best synthetics

I found a independt cycle synthetic oil test that include 15 oil I believe ,I rember Amsoil was #1, Mobil #2 ,valvolne was middle of the pack. I use Mobil Amsoil harder to get.