• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

REAR TIRE REPLACEMENT/ PLEASE READ/NEED INFO

SPYDERGUY1

New member
finally broke down and bought a new oem tire for my ride, specs were the same except for 1 , old tire had a rating of 68H as per BRP specs and new tire has a rating of 76H. As per info provided it is the same speed rating, but now has a greater load capacity. Anyone out there done a rear tire replacement on a GS-SM5-2008 ????? According to the dealer it it about a 2 hour procedure and complicated. ( they farm out the changeover to a tire shop ) HUH ?? Am fairly handy but do not want to mess with bearings etc if can be helped. Hope you can help. Thanks.:yikes:
 
finally broke down and bought a new oem tire for my ride, specs were the same except for 1 , old tire had a rating of 68H as per BRP specs and new tire has a rating of 76H. As per info provided it is the same speed rating, but now has a greater load capacity. Anyone out there done a rear tire replacement on a GS-SM5-2008 ????? According to the dealer it it about a 2 hour procedure and complicated. ( they farm out the changeover to a tire shop ) HUH ?? Am fairly handy but do not want to mess with bearings etc if can be helped. Hope you can help. Thanks.:yikes:

i just had a kuhmo put on the rear of my 2008 manual(bought from tirerack.com for 69 +shipping of 12)
its the 2nd kumho is have put on it 42,000 miles on the last one.
bike shop here at the beach put it on in less than an hour for $70.
ps i only got 20k out of the original tire
 
finally broke down and bought a new oem tire for my ride, specs were the same except for 1 , old tire had a rating of 68H as per BRP specs and new tire has a rating of 76H. As per info provided it is the same speed rating, but now has a greater load capacity. Anyone out there done a rear tire replacement on a GS-SM5-2008 ????? According to the dealer it it about a 2 hour procedure and complicated. ( they farm out the changeover to a tire shop ) HUH ?? Am fairly handy but do not want to mess with bearings etc if can be helped. Hope you can help. Thanks.:yikes:
Thanks for the information. For those who want to store away the trivia of the tire markings, a load rating of 68 will support 694 pounds, while a load rating of 76 will handle 882 pounds. A speed rating of H is good for 130 mph. IMO, any replacement tire should be rated as high or higher...no matter how you load and ride your Spyder!

It is a good idea when you change the rear tire to inspect or replace the rear wheel/sprocket bearings and seals. If the two hours of labor included this, it is probably a bargain. Otherwise, it seems to be the typical flat rate, although some dealers will do it for less. Many dealers (and a number of tire shops) can't handle the Spyder tires with their equipment, so the dealers farm the work out.
 
No special equipment is required, simply remove the sprocket and the tire will fit any tire changer that a tire shop has. When resetting the sprocket make sure it lines up so that you can access the valve stem (ask me how I know).
 
finally broke down and bought a new oem tire for my ride, specs were the same except for 1 , old tire had a rating of 68H as per BRP specs and new tire has a rating of 76H. As per info provided it is the same speed rating, but now has a greater load capacity. Anyone out there done a rear tire replacement on a GS-SM5-2008 ????? According to the dealer it it about a 2 hour procedure and complicated. ( they farm out the changeover to a tire shop ) HUH ?? Am fairly handy but do not want to mess with bearings etc if can be helped. Hope you can help. Thanks.:yikes:

I did my first tire change all myself between my 2nd and 3rd rear tires on the Spyder. It knocked down shop costs from 3 hours of labor to just 1 hour. I also put it back on myself...the squeek that we all hear and I used to have, disapearing with this tire change. It did take me longer cause of errand running to get the proper tools, but, it will save money in the long run as I'm no longer going with the OEM tire. I'm going with the Faulken 512 which at last purchase, was $97 out the door in cali at Discount Tire. As for what I used as guidelines, I used Lamont's video for the steps, used my ATV jack to lift the spyder and the Spyder shop manual I bought online for $20, for the specs. I have an 09 RS.
 
WHILE YOU HAVE IT DIS-ASSEMBLED

I WENT THE KUMHO TIRE, LAMONSTER VIDEO ROUTE ALSO AND ONE STEP BETTER....I ALSO MOVED MY VALVE STEM TO THE OTHER SIDE OF THE RIM WHERE IT'S MUCH EASIER TO ACCESS FOR AIR ETC., KURVEYGIRL.COM HAS GREAT 85 DEGREE METAL MTC. VALVE STEMS @ 2 FOR $ 10.00....BEST PRICE OUT THERE....YOU WON'T REGRET MOVING THE STEM.....MIKE.....:thumbup:
 
i just had a kuhmo put on the rear of my 2008 manual(bought from tirerack.com for 69 +shipping of 12)
its the 2nd kumho is have put on it 42,000 miles on the last one.
bike shop here at the beach put it on in less than an hour for $70.
ps i only got 20k out of the original tire
Thats fantastic the best I've done is 13K. Are you changing it when you get to the wear bars or do you ride it till you get balled spots. 20k:yikes:
 
I'm Just now changing over to Kuhmos on my wifes 08 rs, was wondering what tire pressures are working best. And has anybody know where to find a decent spanner wrench, so I can remove the bearing from the wheel, need to do some powder coating. thanks Gene
 
I'm Just now changing over to Kuhmos on my wifes 08 rs, was wondering what tire pressures are working best. And has anybody know where to find a decent spanner wrench, so I can remove the bearing from the wheel, need to do some powder coating. thanks Gene


i run mine at 25 psi and i still had tread pattern at 42k
 
When you change the rear tire I know you

1- Take off parking brake cable
2- Take of Caliper
3- Loosen 36mm Axle bolt
4- Take off belt guard
Do you loosen and remove rear shock lower bolt before you jack it up or after the Spyders on the jack?
Would Not removing the shock bolt tend to let the rear end calapse?:dontknow:

Thanks!
 
How the hell do you move the valve stem to the other side, if the tire is bi-directional, and the valve stem hole comes from the driver's side ( left ) GREAT IDEA, BUT?????????????????
 
Back
Top