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Rear Tire Change/Belt alignment/excessive driveline drag

DGoebel

DGoebel

Well-known member
So, I changed my rear tire per Finless Bob's instructions, using the shock bolt removal method. That way wouldn't have to realign the belt. The belt should go back to where it was before. VERY carefully following his and others recommendations to avoid changing belt alignment. But my belt is now hugging the inner flange, so I go to the thread Belt Adjustment video, watch that video, and when I try to do what he's doing, my back tire barely spins unless I give it some gas. Like there's a lot of drag on the wheel (though the belt is right up on the inner flange).
Idea's anyone, dealers locally are swamped and can't get me in for weeks, I'm prepping for first Spyderfest...
 
DRAG

Something is binding ....... I would get rear tire off ground ..... loosen axel nut ..... will rear tire/wheel rotate ( by hand ) freely ???? ( with belt still on ) .... How tight is the belt ( it shouldn't have changed - if you did it Bob's method ) ....... Mike
 
How tight is the axle nut? Bearing bind? Just throwing that out there along with others suggest.

Did you take off the rear pulley at all??
 
Les, Please, I'm going through the above mentioned steps but belt tension is something I can't check yet. Heading to the local Harley dealer to see if they have a belt tension tester.

I did follow Bob's video and several other tips mentioned explicitly, but had a hard time keeping the right rear tension adjuster cap tight to the swing arm, seems ever time I tightened the nut it would slide back, and I'd have to push on the tire to tighten it back up.......
But all in all, I've now done rear tire and an oil change solo first time... wheeeeeeee
 
TENSION CAP !!!!

DGoebel said:
Les, Please, I'm going through the above mentioned steps but belt tension is something I can't check yet. Heading to the local Harley dealer to see if they have a belt tension tester.

I did follow Bob's video and several other tips mentioned explicitly, but had a hard time keeping the right rear tension adjuster cap tight to the swing arm, seems ever time I tightened the nut it would slide back, and I'd have to push on the tire to tighten it back up.......
But all in all, I've now done rear tire and an oil change solo first time... wheeeeeeee
Click to expand...
IF , you followed the video - and the adjuster cap wasn't loose to begin with ....... then you did something , because that CAP shouldn't be loose NOW ..... Everything should have returned to what it was before ............ Pushing on the tire should cause the belt to loosen .....unless the adjusters weren't tight to the axel to begin with ..... and this is possible if done at the dealer ............. sending :pray::pray::pray: ..... Mike :thumbup:
 
Removed Rear Wheel and Tire, thought trikermutha might have had a point, I did remove the drive hub and the disk brake hubs, didn't check bearings much, but on re-disassembly the bearing on the disk brake side doesn't spin like the bearing on the drive hub side....
 
DGoebel said:
Removed Rear Wheel and Tire, thought trikermutha might have had a point, I did remove the drive hub and the disk brake hubs, didn't check bearings much, but on re-disassembly the bearing on the disk brake side doesn't spin like the bearing on the drive hub side....
Click to expand...

Check and make sure you didn't leave a spacer out of the rear end.
David
 
OOOOHHHHH this is fun, I think I over-torqued the inner-hub to wheel bolts, when I was reassembling the wheel assembly. Are the two bearings on either end of the spacer tube supposed to spin independantly of each on on proper assembly or does the spacer tube lock those two bearings to spin as a single assembly inside the wheel?
 
DGoebel said:
OOOOHHHHH this is fun, I think I over-torqued the inner-hub to wheel bolts, when I was reassembling the wheel assembly. Are the two bearings on either end of the spacer tube supposed to spin independantly of each on on proper assembly or does the spacer tube lock those two bearings to spin as a single assembly inside the wheel?
Click to expand...

There is a spacer that goes on the brake side. Very easy to leave out. It fits between the outer bearing and the bracket that holds the caliper. If you leave it out once you torque the rear axle you can turn the wheel, but is hard to turn.
David
 
Nope I even used Engine Oil and BRP Grease where the service manual shows when re-assembling and made sure both spacers were in proper locations. But I've now found that when I try to torque the inner hub to the wheel (even at half torque value of 27lbf-ft) the bearings and tube become unmovable, when loose the bearings spin like they should, but as soon as I tighten those 5 inner hub to wheel bolts (using the time tested cross pattern and gradually increasing torque each time around / across the points) the bearings are locked.

Anyone know if that spacer tube is really necessary.... Just thinking if it's not in the bearings spin fine, but it may actually keep the disk side bearing in too.
 
Yea, I marked each piece I removed with index markers to insure I reassembled all components as they came apart, I even keep the bolts and nuts in a weekly pill manager so the pairs stay together and bolt 1 goes back into hole one... as soon as I hand tighten the inner hub bolts, not even torquing them, the bearings stop spinning, they spin fine under no load, I've dis-assembled and re-assembled twice more today.
I never did check those bearings before the initial disassembly, checked the one in the drive hub and it was spinning as it does now, but not the middle and disk side...... All local BRP shops are shut down until Tuesday now, and we're planning on towing the spider down on a trailer. Maybe I'll see if Pitbull or Lamonster can check it when we get there. (busy week though I'm sure.....)
 
Just off the top of my head when reassembling put the axle thru then reassemble . Not sure if this will help but something is not right..

Did the bearings move at all?? where they sit

Are all parts put back correctly>>
 
Last edited:
DGoebel said:
Yea, I marked each piece I removed with index markers to insure I reassembled all components as they came apart, I even keep the bolts and nuts in a weekly pill manager so the pairs stay together and bolt 1 goes back into hole one... as soon as I hand tighten the inner hub bolts, not even torquing them, the bearings stop spinning, they spin fine under no load, I've dis-assembled and re-assembled twice more today.
I never did check those bearings before the initial disassembly, checked the one in the drive hub and it was spinning as it does now, but not the middle and disk side...... All local BRP shops are shut down until Tuesday now, and we're planning on towing the spider down on a trailer. Maybe I'll see if Pitbull or Lamonster can check it when we get there. (busy week though I'm sure.....)
Click to expand...
http://www.powersportswarehouse.com..._SE5,_2013/08-_Drive_System,_Rear/85401/84597
Look at p/n 250. Did you put it in correctly. Also #240. Don't know if you removed it or not. I'm thinking one side is shorter than the other.
David
 
Last edited:
DGoebel said:
Les, Please, I'm going through the above mentioned steps but belt tension is something I can't check yet. Heading to the local Harley dealer to see if they have a belt tension tester.

I did follow Bob's video and several other tips mentioned explicitly, but had a hard time keeping the right rear tension adjuster cap tight to the swing arm, seems ever time I tightened the nut it would slide back, and I'd have to push on the tire to tighten it back up.......
But all in all, I've now done rear tire and an oil change solo first time... wheeeeeeee
Click to expand...

Dave,

send me me your address and I will ride out tomorrow. How early are you available?

[email protected]

Les
 
trikermutha, Yep, I found that tip in one of the vids or the comments or posts here on SpyderLovers. It helped line the spacer tube (140 in the parts diagram Warlocks post refers to.) up between the bearings (150). And those bearings spin real nice, until I start tightening the bolts (120 / 130 ).

Warlock, yep, I have the same breakdown in the BRP Service manual and lubed each with Motor Oil, lubed the axle etc. Double checked all the torque values. Used a torque wrench with no or the shortest possible extension, I routinely torque bolts / nuts to half torque, 3/4, then full.
 
DiIk????? Les is coming tomorrow, I've got a trailer lined up and the nearest 8 BRP service shops lined up by their distance and opening time on Monday morning in the hopes someone can let me slide in line before we pack up for Spyderfest. I'll also be calling Pitbull and Lamonster on Monday if none of the local shops can handle my issue before Tuesday at 5 PM when we leave MN for MO.
 
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