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Rear LED Brake light bad - anyone else?
- Thread starter SkipH
- Start date
Drwerner
New member
Are you referring to a single LED on the array or the whole thing? In either case, it should be covered under warranty. If you want to add something extra (a helmet-mounted brake and turn signal light) check this out http://www.inviewlight.com. I have an inView on my 21 RTL and Triumph T100 Black. 
Copperman
Active member
You might want to check to see if the wiring harness, on the top case, is plugged in.
K80Shooter
New member
One led out or the whole array? Either way it should be under warranty.
If the whole array is out, remove the light and make sure it is plugged in good. Very easy to do. If it is let the dealer sort it out.
Also as Copperman suggested, make sure the main plug is also plugged in. We are talking about two different plugs.
If the whole array is out, remove the light and make sure it is plugged in good. Very easy to do. If it is let the dealer sort it out.
Also as Copperman suggested, make sure the main plug is also plugged in. We are talking about two different plugs.
SkipH
New member
Top case plugged in or not, the brake light does not work and there is 12 volts to the wire that goes into the light. Since I have the bike torn apart, I ordered the light rather than put it back together and take it to the dealer to have them tear it apart to replace the light and have it stay there until they get the part. I also ordered up the afterburnerz lights after observing another 2021 that passed me and appeared to me that the rear lighting is not adequate, at least to me, after riding a Honda 1800 for 20 years.
WilcoJunoHotel
New member
Not really clear after reading the posts if it is just one side, or just one led or if you have no brake lights at all.
If you get no brake lights at all, check your brake light switch (under the brake pedal).
Mine went out recently - $50 item and fairly easy to replace except for access to the harness plug which is a pita.
If you get no brake lights at all, check your brake light switch (under the brake pedal).
Mine went out recently - $50 item and fairly easy to replace except for access to the harness plug which is a pita.
SkipH
New member
I guess that I should have been clearer in what is wrong.
The left rear brake light, only the brake led light, is out. Turn(bulb) and led parking light both work. 12 volts to the white wire going into the light housing when brake is pushed.
Sorry that you don't understand what I think I said.
The left rear brake light, only the brake led light, is out. Turn(bulb) and led parking light both work. 12 volts to the white wire going into the light housing when brake is pushed.
Sorry that you don't understand what I think I said.
:chat: We talked it over, You need a New Bulb!nojoke
SkipH
New member
To end this posting, I have a fair weather tail light, Yes, that is right. The light won't come on under 65 degrees, At @70 degrees and above it turns on.. Go figure that out. Yes, it is repeatable..
How do I explain this to the dealer? Stick it in the frig and try it? Na, that won't work, I'd have to take it to there and if the shop is heated and the light works?
I already ordered a new tail light and should be here in a couple of days. End of saga.
How do I explain this to the dealer? Stick it in the frig and try it? Na, that won't work, I'd have to take it to there and if the shop is heated and the light works?
I already ordered a new tail light and should be here in a couple of days. End of saga.
Sorry to Hear,,,,
The New tail light should END your problem!
You will get the Bugs out before spring....
......:thumbup:....Bill
K80Shooter
New member
Hopefully that will fix it for you.
While you're waiting why not check the ground connection at the battery, if it's loose any it will cause strange things to happen. There's also a ground wire under the passenger seat, you might want to check it also.
IdahoMtnSpyder
Active member
Since the on/off condition is temperature related I suspect a wire connection or wire break somewhere in the circuit. As the temp drops the wire shrinks and looses contact. Hopefully that will be inside the lamp assembly so it'll get fixed by the new light.
Little Blue
SpyderLovers Ambassador
Warranty Light????
Just a quick thought, maybe and only a small maybe. If you want, check with your Spyder Dealer and ask some questions.
They have a little information/help from you and possibly submit a warranty claim for you.
Might be worth a try.
Good Luck on Your Mission. .........:thumbup:
Just a quick thought, maybe and only a small maybe. If you want, check with your Spyder Dealer and ask some questions. They have a little information/help from you and possibly submit a warranty claim for you.
Might be worth a try.
Good Luck on Your Mission. .........:thumbup:
Peteoz
Well-known member
Skip, just as an aside, I recently had a throttle connection issue, which caused the F3 to go into limp mode. It turned out that the ground wire at one of my connectors was only just making contact, and leaving the F3 outside in low temps caused just enough contraction to separate the wires. I reseated the wires and popped a bit of silicone on the plug, and never saw that issue again.
The dealer wanted to keep the RT for several weeks to pull it apart, but the workshop manual made it quite clear where the issue lay, and it was literally a 20 minute fix including panel removal and back probing. You do have to wonder about the ability of some Spyder techs.
Pete
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
Well glad you worked it out .... However you could have taken a picture of BOTH brake lights at a temp below 65-F .... you said only one side was out at the colder temp ..... jmho .... Mike :thumbup:
SkipH
New member
As far as the wiring goes, Shaken, bent every which way with no results. I even went and disconnected the right light and plugged in the left light connector( the wiring is the same) and guess what, no workey in a cold garage. No doubt here. It is bad..
Not worried about warranty on light as I ordered one. $125 is not going to bother me.. While I have it torn down even ordered up new front pulley as this one really sings. Oh ya, all this at 708 miles.....
Not worried about warranty on light as I ordered one. $125 is not going to bother me.. While I have it torn down even ordered up new front pulley as this one really sings. Oh ya, all this at 708 miles.....
BertRemington
New member
Just saying...
Hmmm eleven modifications, all of which required some removal of bodywork, mechanical modification/change, and/or intrusion into electrical system, at 708 miles. I wouldn't ask for dealer warranty service on an electrical problem either.
Hmmm eleven modifications, all of which required some removal of bodywork, mechanical modification/change, and/or intrusion into electrical system, at 708 miles. I wouldn't ask for dealer warranty service on an electrical problem either.
SkipH
New member
Lets see: I'm 78 years young and had been an ASE master automotive Mechanic for over 30 years as well as an electronic tech in my younger years. I have taken nothing in for warranty as I've seen first hand how these new mechanics work, They torque nothing, If you are lucky, they use torque sticks. I have a set and found out that they are not accurate at all.
"Hummm", What is your qualifications?
PS: I have most of the modification setting on the bench waiting to be installed.
Bfromla
Well-known member
Experience with similar & is a loose connection, temp change allows movements from expanding contracting metals& components. Soldering if/where possible is the fix.
(You apparently have similar experience to have used the term, explanation is for some that might not)
Last edited:
BertRemington
New member
Perhaps defer modifications
For instance, both the BRP horn and brake circuits are Always-On so if the battery wasn't disconnected during installation there might have been an inadvertent connection leading to a surge into the reverse-polarity and transient-voltage sensitive rear light assembly LEDs. Or perhaps the high-power horn relay didn't have a diode- or resistor-quenched (like BRP does) coil. Or the horn itself if no relay was used.
We're in a Schroedinger's cat situation assuming the entirety of your modifications list was installed.
But my point remains: you unfortunately encountered a very rare, hard to diagnose factory defect in your warrantied rear light assembly. If all eleven modifications had been installed and you went for warranty service your dealer would have reason to be skeptical. May I suggest you defer installation of your modifications allowing more burn-in time for infant mortality failures to appear.
indicates part of the problem we've had diagnosing your lighting failure.
For instance, both the BRP horn and brake circuits are Always-On so if the battery wasn't disconnected during installation there might have been an inadvertent connection leading to a surge into the reverse-polarity and transient-voltage sensitive rear light assembly LEDs. Or perhaps the high-power horn relay didn't have a diode- or resistor-quenched (like BRP does) coil. Or the horn itself if no relay was used.
We're in a Schroedinger's cat situation assuming the entirety of your modifications list was installed.
But my point remains: you unfortunately encountered a very rare, hard to diagnose factory defect in your warrantied rear light assembly. If all eleven modifications had been installed and you went for warranty service your dealer would have reason to be skeptical. May I suggest you defer installation of your modifications allowing more burn-in time for infant mortality failures to appear.
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