have the bike striped down. Going to replace the compressor, bag and possibly the check valve. I was wondering if it is still possible to get the "Doc Humphrey's" rubber cup(?) that I have read about for the bag? And would you replace any other tubing while apart? a bag and compressor, OEM type are about $500 from what I have found. If you have bought others from aftermarket, whom did you order from? not a "fun" job but I'm retired and do not want my dealer to get rich on my SSI limited funds.:yikes:
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rear air-ride bag and compressor gone - is protector still avail?
- Thread starter Myron Ah
- Start date
Mikey
Well-known member
Is the bag gone, or are you just changing it for a piece of mind? Do you find that you change the air setting a lot? If your trying to save money and want to have some thing more reliable, just go with the bag hooked up to the schrader valve, manual fill it! Set it and forget it, or gut it and spend your $500 on a good aftermarket shock and be done with the old finicky air system! It's great when it works, but not so much when you ride home on the swing arm!!! Good Luck
Here You Go...
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Fernco-Q...iABEgKhHfD_BwE
The above is what it is...You'll need to drill a hole in the center and get a little longer metric bolt...
These keep the bottom of the air bag from gathering stones and debris that wears holes in the bottom of the bag...
NOT FUN TO INSTALL...Air bag needs removed to install cup...
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Fernco-Q...iABEgKhHfD_BwE
The above is what it is...You'll need to drill a hole in the center and get a little longer metric bolt...
These keep the bottom of the air bag from gathering stones and debris that wears holes in the bottom of the bag...
NOT FUN TO INSTALL...Air bag needs removed to install cup...
Last edited by a moderator:
I see my link no longer works...All you need is a "Fernco" cap...Most plumbing stores will have...I "THINK" it takes the 3" size...You will need to drill a hole in the center and get a little longer metric bolt...(Again I don't remember the size or the length of the bolt)...This getting old and forgetful sucks when my saved notes fail...larryd
Most of us use the Viair Compressor...I'd replace ALL the push lock air fitting with the compression type...Do a site search for the Viair Compressor...You'll find many posts...
safecracker
Active member
I agree with Mikey, i would go from air bag to shrader valve and be done with it. From what i have seen, the usual culprit is the check valve gets really dirty/gummy from the road. This causes the compressor to go bad. Earlier compressors had a set screw that would come loose and the piston rod would disconnect from the crank. Good luck on what you decide to do.
irvin48
New member
how hard is it to get to just the check valve and periodically clean it or replace ? that and the compressor were changed under warranty once!
Myron,
I used a VIAIR 97 compressor - sourced from Amazon for around $75. You will need to make a couple of additional adjustments to fit the compressor; 1 - you will need to remove the bolts and rotate the new compressor head 180 degrees. 2 - You will likely need longer mounting bolts for the compressor because the VIAIR motor is larger in diameter and fully round compared to the OEM flat-sided motor. 3 - You may need to add a couple washers behind the brake fluid reservoir mounting points to shim it away from the larger compressor. Finally, this compressor draws more amperage than the OEM. A few have reported blown fuses due to the higher current draw. If that happens, you may need to add a relay to the existing circuit and wire the compressor load directly from the battery via a fused line. It's really not a terrible job - just takes a little time.
PM me if I can be of further assistance. John
I used a VIAIR 97 compressor - sourced from Amazon for around $75. You will need to make a couple of additional adjustments to fit the compressor; 1 - you will need to remove the bolts and rotate the new compressor head 180 degrees. 2 - You will likely need longer mounting bolts for the compressor because the VIAIR motor is larger in diameter and fully round compared to the OEM flat-sided motor. 3 - You may need to add a couple washers behind the brake fluid reservoir mounting points to shim it away from the larger compressor. Finally, this compressor draws more amperage than the OEM. A few have reported blown fuses due to the higher current draw. If that happens, you may need to add a relay to the existing circuit and wire the compressor load directly from the battery via a fused line. It's really not a terrible job - just takes a little time.
PM me if I can be of further assistance. John
I do not like the way the 97C compressor mounts in the BRP mount either...The next one I do I think I'll order the Viair 98C that has a mount on the compressor and hopefully I can mount it doing a little nicer looking job...
GREAT information JSRT...
Also, Grandpot, a Spyderlovers member has some VERY nice videos for doing the compressor replacement with the Viair...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5NR_LY7u8eY&t=1s
larryd
trikermutha
New member
I agree you dont need the compressor a good rear shock will hold up the rear and not bottom out.
Wahrsuul
Active member
Well, seems the ACS in my 2014 went out as well. Not sure I want to fuss with it at this point.
Checked fuse and relay. Pumped the system up and it goes flat in a couple of hours so I'm guessing I've got a leak somewhere and keeping up with it killed the compressor.
What is the replacement compressor? And what fittings and how many do I need to replace? It's going to be a PITA, and after this I think the tryke and I will be parting ways.
Checked fuse and relay. Pumped the system up and it goes flat in a couple of hours so I'm guessing I've got a leak somewhere and keeping up with it killed the compressor.
What is the replacement compressor? And what fittings and how many do I need to replace? It's going to be a PITA, and after this I think the tryke and I will be parting ways.
Mikey
Well-known member
Sent you a PM
KX5062
Active member
Maybe, but I think not. I believe the air bag system is a spring helper and sets the optimal ride height because of the large variation in rider/passenger weights. If you always ride one up or two up, you could probably get a different spring, set to the proper weight and with that get rid of the air bag system. Of course, a high quality and properly tuned shock is always a good thing.
Wahrsuul
Active member
I was wondering the same thing - looking on Lamonster's site, one of the reviews of the Elka stage 2 rear shock says he used it to replace the leaking air bag. If this is an option, I'd go this way myself. But isn't that what some are doing here? Building the shock to take most or all of the weight unless there's a passenger.
Mikey
Well-known member
The biggest thing is most people over think this system and there is a lot of different things you can do, and money you can spend! When my bag or shock blows up on my ride it will get a nice Elka2 or M2 shock on her! They are adjustable, and rebuildable, easy, pezzey!! My compressor burned up last year I bypassed it for now, works great didn't cost me a thing! Have a good day!!
spyderryder53
New member
Mine went out too. I ordered 3 new stage 2 Ella shocks from Leominster garage but the factory is a few weeks behind on their orders.
Wahrsuul
Active member
Did you order the shocks to "replace" the sir bag or do you still plan to run it as well? I'm trying to figure out what to do with mine. The issue being that I ride mostly one-up with the wife only joining me occasionally (about three times in the last year) But between the two of us, we're about 50lb over the "limit" of the tryke. So I'm concerned that if I get a shock for the two of us, it'll be way too harsh with just me on it. And if I get one for just me, then then will the system still work for the two of us?
Mikey
Well-known member
No,no.no, when you order your shock they are going to ask you some questions you just tell them what you just said, they will build that shock to do what you want it to do, and you can do one of two things after you install the shock, take it out all together or hook it up direct to the schrader and put like 10 psi in the bag and use it for a over load bag for the times mother may have packed to heavy! If you leave the bag in there and it still holds air, you need to put a small amount of air in the bag so you don't pinch a hole in the bag for future use!! Good Luck
mcalva
Member
I did that on my old 2011 RT Ltd. My dealer disconnected the computer system and I changed the rear shock. No more problems.
Plus you will remove a lot of junk
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