Reading dipstick

[Rookiespyder]

Hello I just changed my oil and added new oil. After I ran it for a few min I checked the dipstick and it hardly shows anything on it I put in 5.3 litres. So I checked it again after 45 min but the same thing. So I called my dealer and they said don’t worry about what the dipstick says as long as I put in the 5.3 litres required. Is this normal.

 

[spydernatic]

Hello I just changed my oil and added new oil. After I ran it for a few min I checked the dipstick and it hardly shows anything on it I put in 5.3 litres. So I checked it again after 45 min but the same thing. So I called my dealer and they said don’t worry about what the dipstick says as long as I put in the 5.3 litres required. Is this normal.

On the 1330 motor you have to run the motor until the cooling fans come on twice (2 times) or take it for a 10 min ride to get the motor into the correct heat zone for checking the oil once you have it heated up then you need to read the dipstick within 2 min of stopping the motor, that is the only way you can check the oil.

 

[Chupaca]

Little checking.....

Considering the best way to replace the oil in any unit ist to add less than the specified amount. You never can drain it dry. Did you check to see if it is overfilled. ? You should see it on the stick regardless of what the dealer says. Follow the level procedure in your manual...:thumbup:

 

[MR. H1956]

Yes when you change the oil. Its good to ride it around to get up to running temp. Then park it let it idle while you get off then cut it off and check the oil. Thats how I do our RT. Then you can add oil as needed.

 

[ofdave]

here is some useful info
from this thread: http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...-engined-Spyders&highlight=level+verification

[h=2]

Proper Oil Level Verification Procedure on 1330-engined Spyders[/h]

Hi everyone,
There have been some questions on the right way for checking your oil on the 1330 engine. Below is the correct procedure:

Given the oil system design of the 1330 engine, oil level verification must be done under specific conditions which can influence the quantity of measurable oil in the engine.

These conditions are:

• Engine oil temperature must be between 80°C and 95°C (176°F and 203°F) which is considered as being the engine's normal operating temperature. Don't mistake coolant temperature for engine oil temperature! Coolant will heat up faster than the engine oil.
• Engine oil temperature is crucial since its volume changes based on temperature; that's enough to affect the measurable level.
• Engine must idle 10 minutes. The 1330 engine is a dry sump design with 3 scavenge pumps and 1 pressure pump, 10 minutes of idle time allows the scavenge pumps to stabilize the quantity of oil returned.

Complete oil level verification procedure:

• Bring engine to operating temperature.
• Ensure vehicle is on a level surface.
• Allow engine to idle for 10 minutes.
• Stop the engine.
• Within 2 minutes of stopping the engine:
  • Remove and wipe the dipstick clean.
  • Insert dipstick and completely screw it in.
  • Remove dipstick and read oil level on dipstick.
  
  
• Adjust level as necessary without overfilling.

Tips and Tricks:

Here are 2 ways the crucial criteria can be reached:

• An engine started cold (20°C or 68°F) will take approximately 25 minutes to reach oil level verification criteria (oil temperature and idle time). Oil level can be reliably verified when the radiator fans have cycled ON twice,

or

• The unit can be taken on a 15 km (9 mile) drive (normal riding) or a 6 km (4 mile) drive in 1st gear at 50 km/h (30 mph) which is approx at 4400 rpm THEN idled until the radiator fans have cycled ON twice.

When performing an oil change on a cold engine, the above recommendations must be done to reach oil level verification criteria. When performing an oil change on a hot engine, the new oil will heat up faster since the engine is hot therefore letting the engine idle until 10 minutes or until the radiator fans have cycled ON twice indicates the oil level can be verified.
We thus recommend checking the oil level at the end of a decent ride following the complete oil level verification procedure as outlined above.




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[Bob Denman]

Are you positive that there's nothing on the stick? :dontknow:
Lay it against a paper towel, and see if that makes seeing the oil's level easier. nojoke
(It's transfer to the paper towel, and become obvious!)

Forget this whole thing about letting it idle until the fans come on twice... or a cock crows... or you see a light in the window.
You can do the "cold read" after you change the oil, and it'll be fine! :thumbup:

For a normal oil level check: make sure that the bike has been ridden far enough to bring it up to normal operating temperatures! :lecturef_smilie:Idling doesn't feed the Bulldog!

 

[Lew L]

Bob is right. Fresh oil is hard to see on the dipstick. I filed 3 lines ( dividing the measuring portion into 4 sections) and STILL use a paper towel to really bring out the oil level. It works!!!

Lew L

 

[nhoj]

...I put in 5.3 litres....

You may have added too much oil. 4.7L for an SE6 with filter change.

• SE6: Engine oil, filter replacement: 4.7L (5 US qt)
• SE6: Engine oil, filter & HCM surface filter replacement: 4.9L (5.2 US qt)
• SM6: Engine oil, filter replacement: 4.5L (4.8 US qt)

 

[Little Blue]

Dipstick

Use a clean paper towel and check the Stick for the oil level. All Good Tips above. :thumbup:

 

[Easy Rider]

You can do the "cold read" after you change the oil, and it'll be fine! :thumbup:

Without adding some details, that is extremely BAD advice.
If you keep putting in oil COLD until it is between the marks on the stick, it will be WAY overfilled. :yikes:

Now.......having said that, I find that when the oil level is in the right range using the right procedure, it will show up just barely on the end of the stick when cold.

 

[Bob Denman]

:lecturef_smilie: Put my statement into it's proper perspective...
This is AFTER the bike has already been warmed up, and the oil drained from it.
It will NOT cool down enough to make a difference. nojoke

This comes from eight years of riding Spyders, and many conversations with the Technicians who service them.

 

[Highwayman2013]

When your 1330 is full at operating temperature, let it cool overnight and see where the oil is on the dipstick. My 2016 F3L is at the add mark. I don't have to add between changes and wouldn't add when the engine is cold, but the cold check lets me know there's oil in there.

 

[Easy Rider]

Forget this whole thing about letting it idle until the fans come on twice... or a cock crows... or you see a light in the window.
You can do the "cold read" after you change the oil, and it'll be fine! :thumbup:

:lecturef_smilie: Put my statement into it's proper perspective...
This is AFTER the bike has already been warmed up, and the oil drained from it.

YOU need to provide the "proper perspective" when the post is first made.
Like explaining what you mean by "cold read".
And you are ASSuming that the person actually did warm up the engine first.

And anyway you are not right. The oil will still be COLD.
And without running the engine some, the oil will not GO where it needs to GO to get a proper reading.
It just won't.
Trying to do a "cold read" will not be "fine".

 

[als]

dipstick reading

We should never "assume". I would think that most people change the filter with the oil.
How do you get a proper " check " without starting and circulating the oil ?

 

[MR. H1956]

We should never "assume". I would think that most people change the filter with the oil.
How do you get a proper " check " without starting and circulating the oil ?

Yes I change the filter in my pickup when I change the oil. I'll start it up and back it off the ramps onto level ground and let it run and circular thru the engine while I clean up my tools. Then turn it off and check the oil level. I do the same thing with my spyder. Except I like to ride it around for awhile Then check the oil level.

 

[ThreeWheels]

I'm constantly amazed by this procedure.
So...in order to check your oil level, you need to run the bike for 25 minutes.
But if the oil is low, won't that damage the engine ?

I understand that BRP has designed an extremely elaborate and difficult means to check the oil, and after you go through this extremely elaborate and difficult procedure, you get a reading that is extremely accurate down to the ml.

Still, there has to be a much simpler means of measuring the oil. Something that gives you a go/no go reading. Otherwise, how can you be sure it's safe to take it out of the driveway ?

 

[ofdave]

have you ever wondered why, when some people disagree with another, that they can't just make a comment but have to get nasty in doing so?
I'm thinking there are insecurity issues in play?
it gets old real fast

 

[Bob Denman]

YOU need to provide the "proper perspective" when the post is first made.
Like explaining what you mean by "cold read".
And you are ASSuming that the person actually did warm up the engine first.

And anyway you are not right. The oil will still be COLD.
And without running the engine some, the oil will not GO where it needs to GO to get a proper reading.
It just won't.
Trying to do a "cold read" will not be "fine".

I certainly did:
"after you change the oil..." :thumbup:

 

[Easy Rider]

Still, there has to be a much simpler means of measuring the oil. Something that gives you a go/no go reading.

Of course there is; more than one actually.

Do their dance once or twice within a fairly short period and note the fill level.

Then stop after a ride and leave it running long enough to dismount, take off gear, put on glasses, etc......maybe a minute.
Turn it off and check the oil. Note that it is so close to the reading that you got with the "right" procedure that you can't tell the difference.

THEN.......let it sit and cool off for 12 hours or more.
Check the oil cold. Note the reading.
THAT is your "go/no-go" benchmark.

I need to do it again to be sure but with my '17 RTL, the cold reading was oil just barely on the tip of the dipstick.
If that holds up, I wouldn't worry unless or until NO oil was on the stick cold.

 

[Easy Rider]

I certainly did:
"after you change the oil..." :thumbup:

Still wrong.
You haven't said anything since the original statement to make it any less wrong.