rabtech
New member
Sent from my Galaxy S3. I may have made a spelling error or may have some grammer issues. My fingers are way to big to type on this tiny screen!
Last edited:
-
There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.
Quick oil question. (If their is such a thing)
- Thread starter rabtech
- Start date
Sent from my Galaxy S3. I may have made a spelling error or may have some grammer issues. My fingers are way to big to type on this tiny screen!
CyncySpyder
Teddys favorite human
Here's yur Sign ........... er' picture along with a word of caution
I'll chime in with our personal experience here. 1st, YES, this oil DOES in fact meet BRPs spec requirements, so we had been using it ourselves in Teds Red Sled which is a 2011 RT-S with SE5 transmission. We've never had any issues with our tranny slipping or anything of that nature to speak of. BUT ..............................
You know there's always a but
we DID develop a small oil and also a coolant leak as well. Finally got Teds Red Sled into our local shop to get the Valve Clearance check done at 34,000 miles (which we were told was within tollerance) and the tech mentioned that our valve cover gaskets seemed 'a bit crispy' as he put it :shocked: and that they put an order in for a new set & the Service Manager was surprised that, when he called BRP about covering it under warranty, BRP signed off on it without issue.
Now, I'm NOT a mechanic, and at the time, didn't think to question it, but after more thought, and maybe someone in the know out there can clue me in, but when the Valve Clearance Check is done, I would think the Valve Cover would have to be removed to do this check. Logic would suggest that if they remove the valve cover to do this check, wouldn't they have to also REPLACE the valve cover GASKETS when they put the valve covers back on???? :dontknow: I don't know, maybe they would be ok to reuse & that is protocal, but it seems once you break the seal on a gasket, it would then need to be replaced :lecturef_smilie: But again, I'm NOT a mechanic :dontknow:
Anyways, we started noticing that the oil leak was considerably worse after we got the byke back from the shop, and when we dropped it off for getting the gaskets replaced, it was litterally dripping a puddle on the ground when I stopped. Our dealer claimes that by us using the Castrol FULL SYNTHETIC OIL was the likely cause of the 'Crispy Gaskets' and that (of course) he only recommends using the BRP branded oil. Not wanting to possibly void my warranty, I went ahead and paid for them to do a Full Oil Change with the BRP oil and I also got the BRP oil change kit to do my next oil change myself, using their oil.
After talking with another source that I trust, and wanting to keep our warranty valid, even tho I know many will dissagree here, I'm sticking with their program, at least for the life of our extended warranty. So there you have it, for what its worth, this has been our experience with using .........................
I'll chime in with our personal experience here. 1st, YES, this oil DOES in fact meet BRPs spec requirements, so we had been using it ourselves in Teds Red Sled which is a 2011 RT-S with SE5 transmission. We've never had any issues with our tranny slipping or anything of that nature to speak of. BUT ..............................
You know there's always a but
we DID develop a small oil and also a coolant leak as well. Finally got Teds Red Sled into our local shop to get the Valve Clearance check done at 34,000 miles (which we were told was within tollerance) and the tech mentioned that our valve cover gaskets seemed 'a bit crispy' as he put it :shocked: and that they put an order in for a new set & the Service Manager was surprised that, when he called BRP about covering it under warranty, BRP signed off on it without issue. Now, I'm NOT a mechanic, and at the time, didn't think to question it, but after more thought, and maybe someone in the know out there can clue me in, but when the Valve Clearance Check is done, I would think the Valve Cover would have to be removed to do this check. Logic would suggest that if they remove the valve cover to do this check, wouldn't they have to also REPLACE the valve cover GASKETS when they put the valve covers back on???? :dontknow: I don't know, maybe they would be ok to reuse & that is protocal, but it seems once you break the seal on a gasket, it would then need to be replaced :lecturef_smilie: But again, I'm NOT a mechanic :dontknow:
Anyways, we started noticing that the oil leak was considerably worse after we got the byke back from the shop, and when we dropped it off for getting the gaskets replaced, it was litterally dripping a puddle on the ground when I stopped. Our dealer claimes that by us using the Castrol FULL SYNTHETIC OIL was the likely cause of the 'Crispy Gaskets' and that (of course) he only recommends using the BRP branded oil. Not wanting to possibly void my warranty, I went ahead and paid for them to do a Full Oil Change with the BRP oil and I also got the BRP oil change kit to do my next oil change myself, using their oil.
After talking with another source that I trust, and wanting to keep our warranty valid, even tho I know many will dissagree here, I'm sticking with their program, at least for the life of our extended warranty. So there you have it, for what its worth, this has been our experience with using .........................
Bad Dog6
New member
Interesting
First of all let me say, It never ceases to amaze me the crap mechanics can sling to cover up poor workmanship. I have been dealing with them for years and have heard all the stories about the problems created by synthetic, none have ever been proved to be true. (Don't get me wrong, most are very good at what they do but most have no idea what they are talking about when it comes to oil.)
The Castrol oil is fine to use if that is your preference. JASO MA2 is the highest rating to date.
I also know that BRP oil has no API or JASO specs on their labels. Don't know for sure but my guess is that BRP oil is made by the lowest bidder which means totally reprinting the labels every time they change manufacturers if the oil spec changes. I am sure the BRP oil is fine for use in the Spyder or they wouldn't recommend it. But, how fine is it?
For my money, if it doesn't have JASO MA2 on the label, it doesn't go in my motors.
These are just my opinions based on years of dealing with oils and folks that don't know their butts from a hole in the ground. I hate to see folks taken advantage of.
The one thing I do know, AMSOIL is made by AMSOIL. It exceeds all the JASO and API requirements by a large margin. Under ASTM testing only a couple of other oils come close to the quality of AMSOIL and the recommended change interval for a Spyder, using AMSOIL, is twice OEM recommended change interval. They also have a limited warranty (www.amsoil.com/warranty.aspx) AMSOIL Products are also "WARRANTY SECURE." (It is against Federal law for an OEM to deny warranty coverage based on the brand of lubricant used.) Here is another reference. http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/edu/pubs/comsumer/alerts/alt192.shtm)
You pays your money you takes your choice. Hope all this helps ..
First of all let me say, It never ceases to amaze me the crap mechanics can sling to cover up poor workmanship. I have been dealing with them for years and have heard all the stories about the problems created by synthetic, none have ever been proved to be true. (Don't get me wrong, most are very good at what they do but most have no idea what they are talking about when it comes to oil.)
The Castrol oil is fine to use if that is your preference. JASO MA2 is the highest rating to date.
I also know that BRP oil has no API or JASO specs on their labels. Don't know for sure but my guess is that BRP oil is made by the lowest bidder which means totally reprinting the labels every time they change manufacturers if the oil spec changes. I am sure the BRP oil is fine for use in the Spyder or they wouldn't recommend it. But, how fine is it?
For my money, if it doesn't have JASO MA2 on the label, it doesn't go in my motors.
These are just my opinions based on years of dealing with oils and folks that don't know their butts from a hole in the ground. I hate to see folks taken advantage of.
The one thing I do know, AMSOIL is made by AMSOIL. It exceeds all the JASO and API requirements by a large margin. Under ASTM testing only a couple of other oils come close to the quality of AMSOIL and the recommended change interval for a Spyder, using AMSOIL, is twice OEM recommended change interval. They also have a limited warranty (www.amsoil.com/warranty.aspx) AMSOIL Products are also "WARRANTY SECURE." (It is against Federal law for an OEM to deny warranty coverage based on the brand of lubricant used.) Here is another reference. http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/edu/pubs/comsumer/alerts/alt192.shtm)
You pays your money you takes your choice. Hope all this helps ..
Oh good grief, what a load of bovine poo. You are correct. Your mechanic on the other hand is a goof. If a gasket seal is broken (especially on a valve cover, on the top of the engine where heat cycles happen) it should be replaced. Your gaskets were crispy because of heat and time, not the oil. How in the world can he explain that the gaskets were "CRISPY" because of the oil? Are the rest of your seals (lets see, case halves, clutch cover, even oil filter covers) "CRISPY" also? Your oil choice did NOT do this.I'll chime in with our personal experience here. 1st, YES, this oil DOES in fact meet BRPs spec requirements, so we had been using it ourselves in Teds Red Sled which is a 2011 RT-S with SE5 transmission. We've never had any issues with our tranny slipping or anything of that nature to speak of. BUT ..............................
You know there's always a but
Now, I'm NOT a mechanic, and at the time, didn't think to question it, but after more thought, and maybe someone in the know out there can clue me in, but when the Valve Clearance Check is done, I would think the Valve Cover would have to be removed to do this check. Logic would suggest that if they remove the valve cover to do this check, wouldn't they have to also REPLACE the valve cover GASKETS when they put the valve covers back on???? :dontknow: I don't know, maybe they would be ok to reuse & that is protocal, but it seems once you break the seal on a gasket, it would then need to be replaced :lecturef_smilie: But again, I'm NOT a mechanic :dontknow:
Anyways, we started noticing that the oil leak was considerably worse after we got the byke back from the shop, and when we dropped it off for getting the gaskets replaced, it was litterally dripping a puddle on the ground when I stopped. Our dealer claimes that by us using the Castrol FULL SYNTHETIC OIL was the likely cause of the 'Crispy Gaskets' and that (of course) he only recommends using the BRP branded oil. Not wanting to possibly void my warranty, I went ahead and paid for them to do a Full Oil Change with the BRP oil and I also got the BRP oil change kit to do my next oil change myself, using their oil.
Any "full synthetic" is a misnomer. There really is no such thing, it's a marketing term. Even in a "full synthetic" there will be a certain percentage of detergents and anti wear adds and grpII or grpII+ oils that carry the seal swellers. This was the original problems with synthetics. Great lubricating qualities, but leaked out of every orifice because 100% synthetics cant keep the seals swelled up. If you think Castrol doesn't know this think again. It's a moot point: the Castrol RS is a hydrocracked (most likely solvent refined) crude, (80-90%) according to the MSDS) grpIII oil, and as such will not have the seal problem any more or less than any other petroleum based oil, including BRP's offering. Castrol won the lawsuit many years back against Mobil, and because of that has been selling cracked crude as a true synthetic for years. All that being said, if you want a better synthetic, Redline, Motul, shoot even AmSoil is better than Castrol.
Last edited:
rabtech, you are fine with that oil and it's actually a pretty good oil too. Your looking for jaso ma2 NO such thing as ML2. 
Personally, I'm running the BRP "kits". $56 and it has everything I need in one box...
The BRP oil holds up very well on our modified jetskis that see well over 8k rpms of consistent running...IMHO, it'll do fine in a stock spyder too...
Personally, I'm running the BRP "kits". $56 and it has everything I need in one box...
The BRP oil holds up very well on our modified jetskis that see well over 8k rpms of consistent running...IMHO, it'll do fine in a stock spyder too...
BajaRon
Well-known member
That is a simple answer. There are better products available in almost every respect.
Here is a short list.
Lighting
Tires
Exhaust
Air Cleaners
Fuel Management
Shocks
Sway Bars
Seats
Oil Filters
And yes, Oil
Are any of these required? No, of course not. You can ride your Spyder bone stock if you like. Nothing wrong with that. But for those who are looking for a better mouse trap, there are many legitimate upgrades available.
There are many answers to that question, but if you choose to use the BRP offering, go right ahead. It's no worse than any of the other oils offered by Castrol or Valvoline that are available in nearly any chain auto parts store or WallyWorld. Here is the MSDS on the BRP synthetic..http://xpslubricants.com/PDF/XPS_4-STROKE_FULLSYN_OIL.pdf
Note on page 4:
"This product contains petroleum base oils (additive carriers) which may be
refined by various processes including severe solvent extraction, severe
hydrocracking, or severe hydrotreating." In a nutshell, your BRP 0w40 synthetic is no more a "full synthetic" than the Castrol used by the OP.
Castrol MSDS..http://msdspds.castrol.com/ussds/am...1C1B8/$File/023295Castrol Power RS 10W-40.pdf
And on page 2:
"Base oil - highly refined Varies 85 -90%"
When you see a reference to "refined" it means it is crude oil based, and not a true synthetic built from the ground up. Now that is not to say that it isn't a good lubricant. Many grpIII oils ( hydrocracked/solvent refined) are fine oils and rival true synthetics (grp IV and V) in performance. But there is room inside the specification, and some don't. Either way, the OP's use of Castrol did not cause the gasket to "get crispy" or cause his leak. The lack of attention and poor approach to his service by the mechanic did.
Similar threads
