Questions regarding trailer hitch & module for 2015 RTS

[Ex-Rocket]

I just purchased a used trailer and now I have to find a trailer hitch & module. The trailer which is an Aluma Motorcycle trailer, 2004 year model and has a 4 prong plug, I believe he said. I don't have the trailer in my procession as yet or I would try to describe it. Which is best, BRP, Show Chrome, etc? I read several posts that the BRP module got fried for whatever reason, specifically not properly grounded. Are there other modules out there that are better and less likely to get fried? All suggestions welcome. Let the suggestions begin. Thanks to all

 

[billybovine]

If you are correct and the trailer is a 4 wire. (No amber turns signal lights) You can go either way, BRP or Show Chrome.

If you choose the BRP hitch. It comes as a complete kit. Wiring harness (isolated and converted 5 to 4), hitch and mud flap, etc. The plug on the BRP harness will be a square 4 and the trailer will be likely a flat 4. So you will need to cut one off and change it or make an adapter.

If you choose to go with the Show Chrome hitch. You will need to buy the parts that go together. You need the hitch, mud flap and wiring harness. The wiring harness from Show Chrome ends in 5 bare wires, no plug. It is isolated but not converted. So you will also need to buy a converter. Commonly referred to as a 3 to 2 converter. Also a matching plug to your trailer.

Blowing out modules problem. Usually that is caused by faulty wiring in the trailer. Bad connection not a short and quite often that bad connection is on the ground side.

 

[pegasus1300]

Check with Pierre at Spydertv.net. He has a really nice hitch that won't move on you after you use it for a bit. He may also be able to suggest some wiring solutions for you.

 

[LJspydee]

A module from an auto parts store works also for about $25.

 

[IGETAROUND]

tailer hitch and module

The wiring harness from Show Chrome ends in 5 bare wires, no plug. It is isolated but not converted. So you will also need to buy a converter. Commonly referred to as a 3 to 2 converter. Also a matching plug to your trailer.

Billybovine,

What do you mean when you say it (the wiring harness) is isolated but not converted???
Al in Kazoo

 

[fencepost]

Contact Lewis @ Electrical Connection, he is a site Sponsor, he is working on a wiring kit now.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

The wiring harness from Show Chrome ends in 5 bare wires, no plug. It is isolated but not converted. So you will also need to buy a converter. Commonly referred to as a 3 to 2 converter. Also a matching plug to your trailer.

Billybovine,

What do you mean when you say it (the wiring harness) is isolated but not converted???
Al in Kazoo

The isolator is a module that uses the turn/stop/tail light power as a trigger to send power to the trailer lights which comes directly from the battery. This isolates the trailer wiring from the bike wiring so any shorts or other problems with the trailer lights will not affect the bike lights. On the Spyder the turn signal power comes from the cluster with no fuse or other protection. A short in the trailer wiring, if it were connected directly to the bike wiring, could MAYBE, stress maybe, cause problems with the cluster. That is potentially about an $800 problem.

The wiring on the Spyder is 5 wire, i.e., left signal, right signal, brake signal, tail light signal, and ground. That means separate turn and brake lights, i.e., amber turn and red brake lights. A four wire system has left turn/brake signal, right turn/brake signal, tail light signal, and ground. That means the same red light is used for turn and brake. A converter takes the 5 wire signal and converts it into a 4 wire signal.

 

[Haze]

Trailer Module

Here is a posting that shows how to replace the BRP Module if it fails. He ultimately changed from Hopkins Module to a Curt unit with success.
See the https://myspyderstuff.wordpress.com/2014/12/14/2013-spyder-st-hitch-converter-replacement/ link for a detailed description of that first replacement.

 

[billybovine]

The isolator is a module that uses the turn/stop/tail light power as a trigger to send power to the trailer lights which comes directly from the battery. This isolates the trailer wiring from the bike wiring so any shorts or other problems with the trailer lights will not affect the bike lights. On the Spyder the turn signal power comes from the cluster with no fuse or other protection. A short in the trailer wiring, if it were connected directly to the bike wiring, could MAYBE, stress maybe, cause problems with the cluster. That is potentially about an $800 problem.

The wiring on the Spyder is 5 wire, i.e., left signal, right signal, brake signal, tail light signal, and ground. That means separate turn and brake lights, i.e., amber turn and red brake lights. A four wire system has left turn/brake signal, right turn/brake signal, tail light signal, and ground. That means the same red light is used for turn and brake. A converter takes the 5 wire signal and converts it into a 4 wire signal.

.

Good explanation but I have to disagree about the risk to the cluster. Power for the turn signals and hazard lights are provided by and protected by 2 different fuses. The fuses are where they should be between the positive source and the first device in the circuit (cluster).

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

.

Good explanation but I have to disagree about the risk to the cluster. Power for the turn signals and hazard lights are provided by and protected by 2 different fuses. The fuses are where they should be between the positive source and the first device in the circuit (cluster).

You're right. What I meant is there is no fuse between the cluster and turn signals. I have no idea how detrimental to the cluster a short to ground, or a hot wire back feeding into the turn signal lead, might be. I sure wouldn't want to depend on the fuse ahead of the cluster to provide protection in that case. It's quite possible the cluster electronics are made rugged enough to tolerate such a fault, but we don't know. Hence my strong recommendation an isolator be used.

 

[billybovine]

You're right. What I meant is there is no fuse between the cluster and turn signals. I have no idea how detrimental to the cluster a short to ground, or a hot wire back feeding into the turn signal lead, might be. I sure wouldn't want to depend on the fuse ahead of the cluster to provide protection in that case. It's quite possible the cluster electronics are made rugged enough to tolerate such a fault, but we don't know. Hence my strong recommendation an isolator be used.

The turn signal circuit is protected by a 15 amp fuse and the hazard lights are protected by a 10 amp fuse. At least 2013 models are. I would be very surprised the cluster cannot take a momentary load exceeding that.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

The turn signal circuit is protected by a 15 amp fuse and the hazard lights are protected by a 10 amp fuse. At least 2013 models are. I would be very surprised the cluster cannot take a momentary load exceeding that.

ST must be different from the RT. I sure don't see any kind of fuse between the cluster and turn signal lamps on the 2013 RT wiring diagram. Only thing between the cluster and turn signal lamps are wires and connectors.

 

[billybovine]

ST must be different from the RT. I sure don't see any kind of fuse between the cluster and turn signal lamps on the 2013 RT wiring diagram. Only thing between the cluster and turn signal lamps are wires and connectors.

.

Of course there is no fuse between the cluster and the lights. That would be the wrong place for the fuse. That would leave the cluster unprotected in case of short between it and the fuse. The fuse is where it should be on a negative ground system. Between the positive source and the cluster. As mentioned a couple posts above. In case of the 2013 RT and ST that is the 15 amp fuse F1 in the Left Fuse Box. I also took another look at the hazard lights. The switch is on another fuse but that is signal voltage for the cluster and not power for the lights.

 

[5legsshort]

Hitch & harness

We have the same bike you have (2015 RT-S) and an Aluma trailer (2010 year), I installed these with the greatest of ease, and works perfectly !

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KYFGTFG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MIVA2AW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Ex-Rocket]

ok, finally took possession of the Aluma trailer and took a few pictures of the power connector that is on the trailer. Do they make a pigtail or convertor to go from the trailer connector to the trailer hitch connector? I haven't purchased the Trailer hitch as yet and trying to figure what trailer hitch to go with, either the Show Chrome or the BRP OEM trailer hitch. Those that have the Show Chrome or BRP, please chime in. Is one better made than the other? Here are the pictures of the power connector on the trailer.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

The trailer has amber turn signal lights, right?

Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk

 

[billybovine]

Well that does not look like a 4 prong plug to me. So same question as IdahoMtnSpyder. Does the trailer have working amber turn signal lights?

 

[Ex-Rocket]

I was only going by what the seller of the trailer was telling me. Sorry the plug is a 5 prong female connector. The trailer does not have amber turn signal lights. The trailer has 2 rear facing brake lights and some running light on top of the fenders. So in reality, one for ground, one for running lights, one for brake lights and one for turn signals?? Am I correct in stating that? But how is one to determine what wire is for each.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I was only going by what the seller of the trailer was telling me. Sorry the plug is a 5 prong female connector. The trailer does not have amber turn signal lights. The trailer has 2 rear facing brake lights and some running light on top of the fenders. So in reality, one for ground, one for running lights, one for brake lights and one for turn signals?? Am I correct in stating that? But how is one to determine what wire is for each.

Almost. One would be ground, one is tail/running lights, one is left brake/turn light, and fourth is right brake/turn light. Your best bet is to cut off the current connector and splice on a 4 wire connector that matches the wiring on the hitch you buy. Didn't we discuss this in an earlier post? I'll have to look.

 

[Ex-Rocket]

Update. I went ahead and purchased the BRP trailer hitch and module. I just thought that the BRP just looked to be better made. I had the trailer hitch installed today and the power connector is a square 4 pin connector. Does anybody know what the pin outs on the Trailer hitch are? There is one male pin connector and the other 3 are female.

But here is the hard part. There is 5 wires coming out from the Aluma trailer. I got an extra wire I guess. The color of the wires coming out of the trailer wiring are, RED, YELLOW, WHITE, GREEN & BROWN. How is the best way to figure what color wire is doing what? The trailer has a 5 pin round connector now but I'd figure I'll just cut that off and buy a 4 pin connector that will match up with the trailer hitch connector and solder or splice the wires. Where can I buy the 4 pin square connector at any auto parts store?