Ex-Rocket
Well-known member
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Questions regarding trailer hitch & module for 2015 RTS
- Thread starter Ex-Rocket
- Start date
red only
IdahoMtnSpyder
Active member
Something isn't adding up. If you have voltage on the yellow and green wires at the connector with either the turn signal on or the brake light on and a red turn signal bulb on the trailer flashes when the bike turn signal is on, then that same bulb has to be lit when the brake is on, unless there is some sort of screwed up cross wiring between the lights somehow. Apply power to the red wire and see if you get a separate pair of bulbs to light up. You won't be using those bulbs with the four wire configuration. Are the bulbs for the turn signals and tail lights separate bulbs, or a dual filament bulb? Do your voltage tests again but connect the ground side of the voltmeter to the bike chassis, not the ground wire in the connector. Let us know what you see then. There may be some miswiring with the module connections.
Ex-Rocket
Well-known member
I haven't done anymore voltage checking but wanted to post the pictures of the rear running/brake/ turn signal lights that are mounted on my trailer. It looks like it a single bulb with a double filament. It is an enclosed light fixture as you can see from the pictures. I took an outside picture and also what it looks like on the inside where the connector plugs unto the light enclosure.
Is there any chance a converter is stashed under the trailer? My trailer is a 4 wire trailer. My Spyder harness is a ShowChrome 5 wire harness. I stashed a 5 to 4 converter under the trailer, on top of the tounge. I ran a 4 wire loop to the coupler area so I can use either 4 or 5 but if I had not done that, the brakes wouldn't light using 4. The fact you have a red wire in there sounds like a converter exists somewhere.
IdahoMtnSpyder
Active member
I think you are on to something.
billybovine
Active member
I would agree. The trailer must have a 3 to 2 converter built in.
billybovine
Active member
Your options are.
1. Rewire the trailer. Find and bypass the converter or diodes in the harness.
2. Buy and build a 3 to 2 converter that goes between the Spyder and trailer.
3. Remove the BRP 4 wire trailer harness from the Spyder and replace with a Show Chrome 5 wire harness.
1. Rewire the trailer. Find and bypass the converter or diodes in the harness.
2. Buy and build a 3 to 2 converter that goes between the Spyder and trailer.
3. Remove the BRP 4 wire trailer harness from the Spyder and replace with a Show Chrome 5 wire harness.
Ex-Rocket
Well-known member
Lucky YOU are the MAN.:2thumbs::2thumbs: I got to digging into the trailer wiring and I found a 3 to 2 converter buried. Ok, now the question. Can I just cut off the converter and then just match up the wires, white to white, yellow to yellow, green to green and brown to brown? Also took a couple of pictures to show everybody what I got. I found the converter tucked into the tongue area of the trailer. I know I'm not done yet but hopefully their is a light at the end of the tunnel.
IdahoMtnSpyder
Active member
It's great you found the culprit! Just cut it out and splice the four to the four and you should be good to go!
billybovine
Active member
You found the culprit. Just cut it out and match the wire colors. The red will not be needed.
As for wire splices. See how it was done before. With insulated butt connectors. That leaves the connections open to water and can cause corrosion. That can give you trouble down the road. I use butt connectors too, but I fill them with dielectric grease before I crimp them on and cover with heat shrink tubing. That's just a suggestion.
As for wire splices. See how it was done before. With insulated butt connectors. That leaves the connections open to water and can cause corrosion. That can give you trouble down the road. I use butt connectors too, but I fill them with dielectric grease before I crimp them on and cover with heat shrink tubing. That's just a suggestion.
IdahoMtnSpyder
Active member
I usually solder wires together and seal them with heat shrink tube. Solder is cheaper than connectors, and more guaranteed to have good electrical continuity.
4boywonder6
New member
Since we are on this subject
I bought an old trailer a Goldwinger was getting rid of. My RT has the CAN AM hitch and trailer plug installed by the local dealer. What I don't understand is
how does the Brake/Turn signal work off of the same wire. The old trailer has separate wires for break and turn and the Can Am plug has one wire for both.
I dont want to try and hook up the two until I understand it fully. Any help would be appreciated.
I bought an old trailer a Goldwinger was getting rid of. My RT has the CAN AM hitch and trailer plug installed by the local dealer. What I don't understand is
how does the Brake/Turn signal work off of the same wire. The old trailer has separate wires for break and turn and the Can Am plug has one wire for both.
I dont want to try and hook up the two until I understand it fully. Any help would be appreciated.
billybovine
Active member
Rear turn signal lights in North America can be red or amber in color since sometime in the 1960s I think. In general most trailers in North America, no matter their size, have red turn signal lights. For some reason makers of trailers to pull behind a motorcycle use amber turn signal lights. This makes motorcycle trailers incompatible with most tow vehicles. Since almost all tow vehicles are wired with combined brake/turn signal wires. When the turn signals are red, there is no need to keep the brake lights and turn signal lights separate on the trailer. So they use the same wire, bulbs and reflector fixture for both brake and turn signal. Less wire, less bulbs, cheaper fixtures.
So as to how brake/turn signal work off the same wire. Very simple. Instead of 3 wires, combining them makes 2 wires, left and right. When the brake is pressed. Both left and right wires are energised and both lights come on. When the turn single is on. Depending on the side, that side flashes.
IdahoMtnSpyder
Active member
That's probably because historically trailers were pulled only by big bikes, of which most of the long lasting ones were of Japanese or European origin. Those two countries mostly, if not exclusively, use amber rear turn signals. I suspect the bike designers liked the amber rear turn signals for greater visibility. Hence the trailers were made with amber turn signals to keep the wiring connections to the bike simpler. Compatibility with other tow vehicles was a non-issue since the small trailers would seldom, if ever, be towed by anything other than a motorcycle. In a sense BRP is the one that has bucked the tradition. I wonder why. Maybe North Americans just don't like amber rear turn signals. I wonder if it's a reflection of an attitude, "We didn't have amber turn signals 50 years ago, we don't need them now!"
I like amber rear turn signal lights. I specifically ordered a pair with them when I made my trailer!
4boywonder6
New member
so is that what the converter does, takes the single signal and breaks it out to 2, one for brake and one for signal?
4boywonder6
New member
so is that what the converter does, takes the single signal and breaks it out to 2, one for brake and one for signal?
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