Question: Spyder RT-S w/electronic ride adj

[SilverSurfer]

Okay ... not trying to freak myself out ... not experiencing any real problem; just an observation that I wanted to see if others note and to guage if it's 'normal.'

I have a 2010 RT-S with the electronic air cush adjustment for the rear. I keep that adjustment to one 'mark' down from the top on the screen display. When I park the Spyder, I often put items back in the rear trunk. When I close the trunk lid and push down to make sure it's latched, the downward push compresses the rear suspension a bit. The Spyder dips, then returns to it's top position with a mild 'clunk' ... meaning the rear shock has topped out to the end of its travel. I have no sense of this when I'm ryding the Spyder ... then too, a couple of pushes down on the rear or the Spyder seems to lessen the effect.

Anyone note this? Comments?

 

[Y Rider]

I keep mine at the mid setting and have not noticed any noises other than the trunk lid closing. Does it get worse with the highest setting? If it goes away at the lower settings then you may have a bad shock.

 

[NancysToy]

I keep mine at the next to the lowest setting, so I have never noticed it. I am not surprised that what you described is happening, though. The ACS does not function after the Spyder is shut off, so with no rider, the suspension would push to its maximum height. It would be likely that the shock topped out under those conditions. I just rap on my rear trunk lid to close it, BTW. Works better than pushing it down hard.

 

[dave01]

See the recall 2010-6 which addresses this problem, of shock topping out and banging.

If the suspension bounces freely or returns quickly
and bangs to the top, the shock absorber needs to​

be replaced.

Mine did this and the shock was replaced with no other issues

 

[IWN2RYD]

My thoughts on it... If it is repeatable over and over... Yes... The shock sounds like it needs to be replaced. If it is only the first time and does not happen again until after another ryde. No... This sounds normal.

 

[SilverSurfer]

Collective Genius

Thanks for the info and pointers guys. Pulled up Bulletin 2010-6. Yup ... who'd o' thunk. I have an appointment to ride up to Petes Cycle in Baltimore on June 9th. Gotta get 'er done befor Maggie Valley for sure. It isn't necessarily that the shock needs replacing; it's that (according to the bulletin it needs the ASC inspection and re-calibration). What I also learned is going on here is that during the year the RT's have been out, BRP is still back-learning the real parameters of some of the components, i.e. the rear shock; and they say "if you notice it," take the bike in for inspection and re-calibration.

I actually called Elka, thinking this might be a good time to get my rear shock; but they wouldn't be able to have it to me in time.

Again, thanks folks.

Paul
(~ Surfer)

 

[StriperKing]

Mine did this also. the more you push up and down the stiffer it got and you may be out of adjustment but my shock turned out to be bad also. With the shock off you could push it down fast with just two fingers. All good now with new shock. I know some will disagree but I went back with the RS-S spring and shock. Way better than the RT but it is stiffer. I just run less air presure now. The RS-S shock also gives you 6-adjustment points for firmness. :thumbup:

 

[SilverSurfer]

... you may be out of adjustment but my shock turned out to be bad also. :thumbup:

What was the indicator that your shock was actually bad?

Thanks

 

[StriperKing]

Had a really fast rebound and would bottom out. Felt like seat was hitting the frame.

 

[SilverSurfer]

Whew!

Had a really fast rebound and would bottom out. Felt like seat was hitting the frame.

Well, I'm happy to announce I do not have that symptom. I've set my asc to dead center and will go for the inspection/re-calibration. Again, thanks to all.

~ Surfer