Question -- Proper Way to Test Grounds in the Main Harness

[Spyder_Cowgirl]

Here is, yet another post about my $%%^&* CB …. yes, still facing static on receive (like there is a loose ground "somewhere"). BRP senior tech rep for this area of the US has asked that I check three black wires on the connector going from the main harness to the radio. Not difficult to get to …. right side panels and the cover next to the right passenger handgrip have to come off. The radio connector is a bit tight to get undone, but I have been there before and my small (but long) fingers do nicely releasing the clip to pull the connector out. There are three black wires on this connector and I need to test them "to ground" …. I have done this once before, but it has been months ago, and I just don't remember if the key needs to be on or off. My plan it to do a continuity test to the frame as I know it has a solid connection to the negative on the battery via the "grounding harness". But, since this is the radio connector …. I suspect the key needs to be "on" for this switched circuit.

Can any of you "electrical types" (or CB experts) confirm the key position? Also, is a continuity test adequate? Is there a better setting on the volt meter to use? Perhaps an additional setting?

Thank you for your guidance …. all the best …. Ann

 

[PMK]

Here is, yet another post about my $%%^&* CB …. yes, still facing static on receive (like there is a loose ground "somewhere"). BRP senior tech rep for this area of the US has asked that I check three black wires on the connector going from the main harness to the radio. Not difficult to get to …. right side panels and the cover next to the right passenger handgrip have to come off. The radio connector is a bit tight to get undone, but I have been there before and my small (but long) fingers do nicely releasing the clip to pull the connector out. There are three black wires on this connector and I need to test them "to ground" …. I have done this once before, but it has been months ago, and I just don't remember if the key needs to be on or off. My plan it to do a continuity test to the frame as I know it has a solid connection to the negative on the battery via the "grounding harness". But, since this is the radio connector …. I suspect the key needs to be "on" for this switched circuit.

Can any of you "electrical types" (or CB experts) confirm the key position? Also, is a continuity test adequate? Is there a better setting on the volt meter to use? Perhaps an additional setting?

Thank you for your guidance …. all the best …. Ann

I do not know the exact details beyond what you posted, but typically, ground checks are done power off, unless it is some type of switched ground, that is relay controlled. Not likely in a CB radio.

just to clarify, when you mentioned key it was to powerup the Spyder, and not key the mic?

As for a simple continuity check, I suspect the techs would like a very low ohm accurate reading to ensure a true number is within a spec they are looking for. Continuity could ring good even with many ohms still in the circuit.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Leave power off. Check the resistance in ohms between the connector black wire pin and the battery negative terminal. It should be close to zero. A continuity test isn't sensitive enough. You can have continuity that seems good but can vary a lot in resistance.

 

[youngers]

blue tooth ?

I hear the question a bit , I am wondering if you have blue tooth talk , through the cycle also ? and if so wondering if this could be the cause ? could the actual base , c.b. unit be too close too the antenna ?

 

[pegasus1300]

Questions:1) Does the send feature work for you if you are using the wired connections?
2) What Dongle are you using to Bluetooth to your helmet?

The standard Dongle that most of us use from Sena(or BRP,they are the same) is a one way unit.That means it will only receive a signal from your radio and send it to your helmet. It will not transmit a signal from your microphone to the airwaves. You need an SR10 (I think thats the number) to have your CB broadcast.It is a twoway band and you will need need a different cord. Talk to motorcycle Dave and he will tell you what you need.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I hear the question a bit , I am wondering if you have blue tooth talk , through the cycle also ?

Questions:1) Does the send feature work for you if you are using the wired connections?
2) What Dongle are you using to Bluetooth to your helmet?

The standard Dongle that most of us use from Sena(or BRP,they are the same) is a one way unit.That means it will only receive a signal from your radio and send it to your helmet. It will not transmit a signal from your microphone to the airwaves. You need an SR10 (I think thats the number) to have your CB broadcast.It is a twoway band and you will need need a different cord. Talk to motorcycle Dave and he will tell you what you need.

She has the factory CB so no BT. The SR10 is for handheld CB only. So far there is no way to communicate with the factory CB using BT, so she is using a wired headset which is what I do.

Ann, have you talked to anyone at a radio shop about your problems? I wonder if a choke on the power leads to the CB might help. The Spyder electrical system is very noisy from engine generated static. When my nephew used a handheld last year on our way to Valcourt he had to run it on battery power only. A cord plugged into the trunk power outlet fed so much noise into the CB it was unusable.

 

[Spyder_Cowgirl]

Radio Shop and Chokes

Ann, have you talked to anyone at a radio shop about your problems? I wonder if a choke on the power leads to the CB might help. The Spyder electrical system is very noisy from engine generated static. When my nephew used a handheld last year on our way to Valcourt he had to run it on battery power only. A cord plugged into the trunk power outlet fed so much noise into the CB it was unusable.

Yes, I have talked with an "old time" CB guy at the local truck stop …. he is the one that suggested checking the antenna several months ago and, via that process, I was able to prove that the J&M antenna was also damaged when the compressor was replaced. He had me check antenna ground to battery and also antenna connector first to antenna base and then to antenna tip. The ground was good, the test to antenna base was also good … the test to antenna tip was bad (no connection), so that was proof that the CB in the bike at the time had (basically) been operated without an antenna.

Also, by choke … do you mean ferrite bead to mitigate noise? If so, I just happen to have several as I added them to every single LED string that I have put on the Spyder. And I have two sizes …. so it is possible that I might have something that will work. The only problem I have with this suggestion -- the CB on this bike was perfect after the second replacement (the third CB) and after I purchased the J &M antenna. Then the compressor failed … the dealer left at least one ground strap unhooked (accused me of disconnecting it too) and it has been a battle ever since to get back to that flawless point.

Thank you for the tip on the ohms vs. continuity …. appreciate it …. Ann

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Choke and ferrite bead, same thing in my mind but I could be wrong. I'm too lazy at the moment to look it up! Bead is what I meant.