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Question on engine oil “overfilled”

BCNewell

Active member
Rode our “new to us” F3S about 26 miles today to check it over before handing it off to my wife. Was my 1st time on a Spyder - lots of fun!!! Definitely different from my 2-wheeler. Anyway, everything checks out fine. Got it back in the garage, shut it down, and checked the engine oil within a minute to minute and a half after shutdown. . Looks to me to be at least 1/2 to 2/3 of a quart overfilled. Selling dealer changed the oil, and they’re primarily a used Harley kind of place. They DID use the correct oil, though! My question - should I drain some oil from the sump drain, the clutch housing drain, or try to siphon through the filler neck? Just wanna know which might be easiest / less messy. Thx?
 
Yep, double check to make sure your assumption is correct and siphon out the overfilled oil through the filler neck. Easier when it is warm. Good luck and good call.
 
There is a specific procedure for checking oil level. With the oil hot - one hour ride hot - park on a level spot, let engine idle 5 minutes, shut off and check the level within a couple minutes. Spyders are unique in many ways. Manuals and YouTube are your friends.
 
There is a specific procedure for checking oil level. With the oil hot - one hour ride hot - park on a level spot, let engine idle 5 minutes, shut off and check the level within a couple minutes. Spyders are unique in many ways. Manuals and YouTube are your friends.

"Got it back in the garage, shut it down, and checked the engine oil within a minute to minute and a half after shutdown. . '
 
Ok - so, looks like we’re all “kinda” right. I got *most* of it right! Re-reading an online manual, I see “Ride at least 15km (9 miles), park on level surface, let idle 10 minutes, stop engine, check level w/in 2 minutes after engine stop”. So - guess I will leave it alone and try it again after we go for a ride this afternoon.

If it is in fact overfilled, is siphoning through the filler tube the best way to remove some, as 2dogs has stated? This was my main question in post #1. Thx again.
 
If it is in fact overfilled, is siphoning through the filler tube the best way to remove some, as 2dogs has stated? This was my main question in post #1. Thx again.

Yes it would be. If you try and reduce the amount of oil using a drain plug you will probably drain too much.
 
Mine was overfilled by the dealer. I sucked a little oil out of the filler neck. Seemed least messy to me. I used a fuel syphon from harbor freight.
 
If you have to remove some yes suck it out the filler. Much easier,much less messy, much more likely to get it right.
 
My manual says you are supposed to wait for 10 minutes of idle after use not 5.

I'm the type that doesn't like to Waste time un-necessarily. ... That's why I don't let it WARM up before riding. IMHO it's a bad idea .... After I bought my 2014 RT, I also followed the kool-aid, about the oil checking .... so I did my own Testing of that procedure. What I found was there was NO difference in the oil measurement ... if you waited ONE minute at ( end of ride Idle ) or 10 min..... If there was any difference, it was too small to measure. I also NEVER had my V-Twin engine's VALVES checked. ... I also have been promoting AUTO tires for Spyders for over a decade ..... I guess I'm just a REBEL ..... Mike :thumbup:
 
Mine was overfilled by the dealer. I sucked a little oil out of the filler neck. Seemed least messy to me. I used a fuel syphon from harbor freight.

Been there done that. My first (3k) service was done by the dealer's service department. They filled my 1330 with the then recommended (6 or 7 qts I don't remember which) and when I got home I was WAY OVER FULL! Luckily I was more up to date than the dealer, thanks to this site, and siphoned out the excess oil. If I remember it took me dam near half a day of riding, idling and dip sticking to get my oil at the proper level on the dipstick. And, if anyone here remembers the abundance of comments about the accuracy of the BRP (Ace) dipsticks in or around late 2014? I never really knew where I was regarding my oil level until I changed my own oil and filter and became accustomed to this ridiculous system of oil level accountability. 5 qts is simply 5 qts, get used to where it shows on YOUR dipstick and again, luckily the 1330 does not use oil so you don't have to check it that often. :banghead: :banghead:
 
The Rotax 1330 is a dry sump engine, The oil is not stored in the oil pan where the crankshaft is sloshing through it.
I run with 5.5 quarts of Amsoil Metric at 5000 mile changes, I don't bother with the dipstick reading.

T.P.
 
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The Rotax 1330 is a dry sump engine, The oil is not stored in the oil pan where the crankshaft is sloshing through it.
I run with 5.5 quarts of Amsoil Metric at 5000 mile changes, I don't bother with the dipstick reading.

T.P.

You might do some oil research T.P. With modern engine designs and modern oil technology we are starting to look at 10k oil changes in the face. Just say'n...... Oil analysis through Napa is very inexpensive and I have no issues doing 9k oil changes. (at the risk of starting another oil thread) You are running excellent oil.
 
You might do some oil research T.P. With modern engine designs and modern oil technology we are starting to look at 10k oil changes in the face. Just say'n...... Oil analysis through Napa is very inexpensive and I have no issues doing 9k oil changes. (at the risk of starting another oil thread) You are running excellent oil.

I agree with you 100%, The reason I do 5000's and Fall oil changes is to get a full fresh fill of all the additives for the 6 month Winter storage in Minnesota.

T.P.
 
I agree with you 100%, The reason I do 5000's and Fall oil changes is to get a full fresh fill of all the additives for the 6 month Winter storage in Minnesota.

T.P.

Not a thing wrong with that analogy. Somewhere I read about acids and so on laying in unchanged motor oils in engines that are not often operated. My downtime rearly goes beyond two months or so, if that long. Almost every winter season we get a 2 week shot of riding time before weather sets in again.
 
So - we rode awhile this afternoon. Was really windy, so the ride was rather short. Was fully up to temp, as the cooling fan kicked on a couple times during the 10-min after-ride idle. Checked after 1 min and 1-1/2 min - looks like is the same distance above full as the distance between add and full. So, am thinking I need to remove 17oz (per manual). Will see about getting a siphon system tomorrow. Thx for all the replies.
 
Well like you Mike, I'm not a big fan of some of the oil check processes I've read and I typically end my ride with about a 1minute idle while disrobing the riding gear which takes me a little more time to put on while the spyder warms up at an idle. The bike sets turned off maybe another two minutes during the remaining disrobing and removal of the Spyder plastic with a wipedown of the dipstick. I reinsert the dipstick tighten, loosen and check the reading. Works good enough for me to sleep soundly and go through the next startup process for the next ride. What can I say, it's a dry-sump system designed to ensure good engine lubrication just like highly stressed race engines and the multi-reservoir system doesn't really seem to matter with the process I've settled on. I'm guessing Rebels think alike when it comes to lubrication! Regards,
 
I've checked my oil level every which way from 2 min before start up to two hours after shut down and everything in between. It always reads the same, never changes. So, from about my third oil/filter change going forward, I only check it twice. Once after my first startup after the oil change, and once just before my next oil change. I've got just over 50K miles and I haven't used a drop of oil ever. I guess I'm just lucky. The only issue I have is the dam dipstick cap get's so hard to twist if you don't exercise it every so often. I just give it a quick twist when I gas up and problem solved.
 
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