Question for do-it-yourself oil changers . . .

[NancysToy]

But you never get to the magnetic plug and see if there's any ferrous particles collecting. I, for one, want to see if there's anything there.

:agree:
-Scotty

 

[mike3069]

We never pop drain plugs. We suck the oil out through the dip stick hole.
Stripped plugs cost time and money.:clap:

This means you are leaving about 1/2 liter of dirty oil in the engine.

There are two plugs on :spyder2:. One at bottom of oil tank, one under the engine. Sucking the oil out of the tank leaves the oil that is is the bottom of the dry sump and the engine oil passages in place. To get this out you MUST remove the oil drain plug on the bottom of the engine and wait for it to stop dripping.

 

[Lamonster]

:agree:

 

[speedster200]

I can go with it. I will pull the engine plug, but I will still suck the oil out of the tank.

 

[CRUCIFIED]

uhhhhhhhh....you knew somebody would do it....I stripped the plug under the engine. Any suggestions to get this thing off other that big $$ at the dealer.

 

[BLACK WIDOW]

stripped out

uhhhhhhhh....you knew somebody would do it....I stripped the plug under the engine. Any suggestions to get this thing off other that big $$ at the dealer.

The first thing I would try is to tap a little larger Torx fitting into the stripped out Hex slot and see if you can get it to break loose.
If that doesn't word, might try to clamp some Vice grips around the head of the plug and tap it with a small hammer in the counterclockwise direction.
If all that fails take a steel chisel and chisel a small notch in the head of the plug and tap (not pound) the chisel in the counterclockwise direction.
If none of that works take it to the dealer he will earn his money getting it out.nojoke

Michael:doorag:

 

[bjt]

uhhhhhhhh....you knew somebody would do it....I stripped the plug under the engine. Any suggestions to get this thing off other that big $$ at the dealer.

You could get a torx socket that is just a bit bigger than the messed up allen hole, tap it into the hole and then try turning that out. Or else you could try finding an Easy Out that will fit in that hole.

 

[Lamonster]

uhhhhhhhh....you knew somebody would do it....I stripped the plug under the engine. Any suggestions to get this thing off other that big $$ at the dealer.

pps::gaah::helpsmilie:

If it were me I would start the Spyder and let it get nice and warm.
Then take a sharp chisel or punch and see if you can break it loose. It should screw out pretty easy after that.

 

[NancysToy]

Don't forget to order a new drain plug first.

 

[boborgera]

Be careful with this idea. A drain plug needs to stay put, and an inadequately torqued plug, or a plug without a fresh crush washer, treated with anti-sieze, could easily loosen and dump your oil on the ground, not to mention in front of your rear tire. Awkward, to say the least.
-Scotty

:agree::agree::agree::agree:

 

[boborgera]

uhhhhhhhh....you knew somebody would do it....I stripped the plug under the engine. Any suggestions to get this thing off other that big $$ at the dealer.

Like i mention once before, Being left handed i've striped many:cus: nuts ,bolts, ect.- The chisel method works every time.

Just take your time, Chew on a cigar, And the plug will come out.

P/S STAY AWAY FROM ANTI-SIEZE :yikes:

 

[krb1945]

Let the engine...

warm up some just as others have posted on this thread. Then apply slow even pressure to the drain plugs and you will be less likely to strip the head out even if you are using a low end hex tool.

I guess I've always been lucky. I have never stripped an oil plug and I've been doing it since age 10. My grandfather had me changing the oil on the farm tractors and trucks at that age. /Ken (krb1945/OEM discount Spyder oil change kits)

 

[sabunim5]

If you're going to save money by changing your own oil you might as well spend the money on some good tools to do it with. Get yourself a 3/8" drive allen socket with a long handle ratchet and it should some right out. It is a good idea to warm up the motor first.:doorag:

:agree: And a good torque wrench doesn't hurt, either, especially if you haven't worked on enough of this stuff to have developed a "feel" for it. Easy to strip alloy threads if you try too hard, and you can have leaks if you don't try hard enough.
-Scotty

+1 :agree:with you both.

 

[boborgera]

warm up some just as others have posted on this thread. Then apply slow even pressure to the drain plugs and you will be less likely to strip the head out even if you are using a low end hex tool.

I guess I've always been lucky. I have never stripped an oil plug and I've been doing it since age 10. My grandfather had me changing the oil on the farm tractors and trucks at that age. /Ken (krb1945/OEM discount Spyder oil change kits)

Farm tractors have iron plugs most SAE. or square drive/foreign MM. most
of the new allen type's are soft metal. If you get on them at an angle you can strip the head. It can happen to any one.

 

[krb1945]

You are absolutely...

correct... farm tractors and trucks do have iron drain plugs. What I was alluding to was the fact that I started changing oil at that early age... not the strength of the drain plug.

Thanks to someone for mentioning a good torque wrench both inch and foot lbs is a good idea. I forgot about mentioning that since on the farm tractors we used a 12 inch knuckle bustin cresent wrench to torque the plugs.

Hey fellows give this old mule plower a little break my gray cells are old and can't hardly remember much. Yep... I plowed a mule and a horse. Those were the good ole days. /Ken

 

[boborgera]

correct...
Hey fellows give this old mule plower a little break my gray cells are old and can't hardly remember much. Yep... I plowed a mule and a horse. Those were the good ole days. /Ken

I think i ate a horse once, The cook who shot it said it was a deer, But i wasn't so sure it was a deer. :roflblack: I might have been eating the cook's
shoes :yikes: for all i know.

 

[Sarge707]

I can go with it. I will pull the engine plug, but I will still suck the oil out of the tank.

The next change I,m going to extract the 3 Quarts + or- from the oil tank with my Sea Doo Oil extractor and then just pull the plug under the engine to check for Metal on the magnet.
No real need to keep pulling the plug on the oil tank, especially if your using a High Quality synthetic like mobil 1 4T.:spyder2:

 

[txknight67]

It's probably like that so people will be discouraged from changing it on their own. Smart for BRP and their dealerships...pain in the butt for those owners who want to change their own oil...

It's above and beyond that. I have done the 3K and the 6K changes and I have used a torque wrench and torqued mine back down both times and trust me, the torque is not as high as Rotax used to smoke those suckers down from the factory. Didn't help I tried to use a Torx tip the first time.pps:

 

[txknight67]

Yeah, that's pretty much the plan I had. I hope it works cuz it's the one on the bottom that is nearly impossible to get at and difficult to get enough leverage to get it off. I'd like to find something else to replace them from ACE hardware or something because they strip so easily. I'm thinking replacing them after every oil change might not be a half-bad idea. It's better than the headache later on.

Anyone else have any other ideas about this ordeal?

If you use a good torque wrench to put them back on, subsequent oil changes are a breeze.

 

[txknight67]

Easy Outs

uhhhhhhhh....you knew somebody would do it....I stripped the plug under the engine. Any suggestions to get this thing off other that big $$ at the dealer.

I used an easy out from Sears. A little tapping and a little lovin' and it came right out.