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Question about the 4 PSI rule for tire inflation

If you want specifics on the 4 psi rule of thumb, search on that here and spend a few days reading; or you could search on the internet and get even more to read - there's a significant amount of info around on it. (y)
Okay, I understand now.

The groupthink on SpyderLovers.com has decided that using 4 psi difference between front and rear tires on our vehicles is the thing-to-do when switching to tires designed for a much heavier vehicle (aka a car).
 
I found 15 to be the sweet spot on my rear quatrac. At 16 PSI I was starting to get a wear strip down the middle of the tire at 20K miles. Bringing the pressure down to 15 seems to have stopped that for now. I went on ahead and lowered my fronts to 15 as well. But 14.5 should not be under inflated. I also remember a thread on here where Mike said that either him or one of his buddies was running 11 psi at the drag strip with the rear tire.
On a drag strip you're going in a straight line and trying to get all the traction you can, 11 psi could give that to you, but you would not want to take that to the mountains and rip some twisty with that you may find yourself on your trim, especially if you are running stock tires!
 
Okay, I understand now.

The groupthink on SpyderLovers.com has decided that using 4 psi difference between front and rear tires on our vehicles is the thing-to-do when switching to tires designed for a much heavier vehicle (aka a car).
To clarify, we are not saying you should have a 4 psi difference between the fronts and rear, we are saying each tire should increase by 4 psi from the cold setting and after driven to warm them up. If you get less than 4 then you are overinflated and more then 4 then under. Has to do with the flexing of the tire.
 
Just read about a new way to judge correct tire pressure. When running lower pressure than what a tire was designed for, they recommend using a 10% increase instead of the 4 PSI rule. We can get away with the lower pressure because our vehicles weight much less than the cars they we developed for. Using this for the rear tire running at 15 psi cold should see 16.5 psi hot. Is anybody really seeing a 4 PSI increase when running the lower pressures?
 
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Just read about a new way to judge correct tire pressure. When running lower pressure than what a tire was designed for, they recommend using a 10% increase instead of the 4 PSI rule. We can get away with the lower pressure because our vehicles weight much less than the cars they we developed for. Using this for the rear tire running at 15 psi cold should see 16.5 psi hot. Is anybody really seeing a 4 PSI increase when running the lower pressures?
I would say if one is seeing a 4 lb increase on a Spyder tire, it is WAY under inflated.
 
I would say if one is seeing a 4 lb increase on a Spyder tire, it is WAY under inflated.
Do you check yours? What % increase do you get? You should get the 4# increase if you are running the Kendas at recommended PSI dependent on rider and cargo weight.
 
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OK, back to the rule of 4 psi. I’ve only ever been able to come close to the 4 psi rule on the track. The increase in pressure is often down to what tire type, what spring rate and compression, static sag, and rebound damping I’m using to keep optimal grip. Track temperature and surface type play into that. Even so, I judge the correct warm pressure by reading the graining pattern and feel, setting the pressure relative to the hot tire. I’d start the day assuming approximately the rule of X psi, depending upon whether it’s slicks or road/race tires, but then go measuring pressure by how it’s working when hot after a session. Reading a tire by graining and chunking is a factor of many, many things in addition to pressure. It’s all a balance and a compromise. Compression and rebound damping can change things almost as much as tire pressures. I’ve fallen off too many times to even do track days at my age any more, but I still help the youngsters that do. I wish I could read tires like Dave Moss though. That man’s a genius.

Where my Spyder usually runs is from the base of the Wasatch mountains to the High Uinta mountains wherethe road surface is too poor and the road temperature too low to get enough temperature into the tire to bring them up by 4 psi. I’m running 4,500 feet to 10,000 feet so everything is a compromise due to large road temperature changes and the factor of exposed thousand or more foot drops with no guard rail that makes you think twice about what you consider hard riding. No matter what pressure you run cold, getting enough heat in them to go up by 4 psi is hard. I start cold (which in summer is far from cold) at 18/28 psi. On a trip with much freeway I admit I run the 20/28 psi set cold for better cruise stability. If I have full luggage I’ll run 20/30 psi. I always ride two up.

So, for me, the rule of 4 psi depends upon so many factors these days I think it’s only dependable as a starting point and really best applies to sports bikes on setup for the first session on track days in my opinion. Tire type, construction and technology, vehicle weight, spring rates, damping rates, road temperature and initial pressure are so many factors affecting such a simple rule that it probably only applies best to passenger cars on average tires and an average ambient road temperature and perhaps where longevity counts for more than feel or handling?

My suspicion is my riding conditions are only typical for someone living at altitude and riding mostly in the mountains. Your mileage may vary, and most probably will.

I also don’t have to consider riding over rabbits.
 
Do you check yours? What % increase do you get? You should get the 4# increase if you are running the Kendas at recommended PSI dependent on rider and cargo weight.
Maybe on a Kenda, however I have NOT done very miles on one. I base my tire pressure on handling, and not wear. Handling is more important to me that tire wear.
 
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Maybe on a Kenda, however I have NOT done very miles on one. I base my tire pressure on handling, and not wear. Handling is more important to me that tire wear.
Totally agree. Just trying to make her all she can be. I talked to a Vred rep, and after he calmed down after I said I put them on a motorcycle and after I explained it was a reverse trike he said I could go down to 24 PSI. We all know that is not correct: probably had something to do with liability. Shows me that we are personally responsible for getting it dialed in ourselves whatever tire we use. The experts are no help!
 
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