Putting together an @ home tool box for the RT

[Jeriatric]

OK, stopped in the auto parts store to get some Loc Tite 243 and walked out with it AND :banghead:,

a 7 pc Hex Bit Metric Socket Set - 3mm, 4mm, 5mm, 6mm, 7mm, 8mm, & 10mm.

As well as, a 12 pc Star Bit Set - T10, T15, T20, T25, T27, T30, T40, T45, T47, T50, T55, & T60.

So, before tearing them open the question is........ how many of these will I actually use on the Spyder? Unknowing here because I've yet to put a wrench on the Spyder.

While I have a mixed assortment already, I just didn't want to start doing something and not have the tool I need. You know how frustrating that is. But, at the same time if I'm not going to use 70% of what I listed, then WHAT AM I DOING WITH THEM..... Yes, it was an impulse purchase :2excited:and, I'm a sucker for tools. :firstplace:

Somebody.......anybody......help me out here.

Thanks

 

[NancysToy]

On the Spyder you will only use a few of the hex sockets and one or two of the Torx, but it is aways handy to have the set. I would also recommend a torque wrench or two, and an interchangable bit screwdriver...either hand or battery powered. I also use a small interchangable bit ratchet for the body screws under the seat, but there are alternate ways to get to them. A good ATV jack is nice (like the Sears unit), but you might not need it if you get a lift.

 

[Jeriatric]

On the Spyder you will only use a few of the hex sockets and one or two of the Torx, but it is aways handy to have the set. I would also recommend a torque wrench or two, and an interchangable bit screwdriver...either hand or battery powered. I also use a small interchangable bit ratchet for the body screws under the seat, but there are alternate ways to get to them. A good ATV jack is nice (like the Sears unit), but you might not need it if you get a lift.

Thanks Nanc,

Torque wrenches - Inch and Foot lbs: check
Bit screwdriver: check
Ratchet 1/4 - 3/8 & 1/2: check
Lift: paid for - hope to hear it's shipping Monday

So, it's worse than I thought......I'll not use 90% of the stuff purchased today. Are you aware of any publication that gives guidance on specific Hex & Torx sizes used on the RT or any Roadster for that matter? I'm hoping if any other Spyder owners, other than myself pop up locally, we'll all get good use out of the tools and lift.

Trying to plan ahead..........:yikes:

 

[Grandpa Spyder]

Some other things I carry as well as tools J B weld and Gorilla tape you will be surprised what you can fix with those two items.

 

[pro10is]

Some other things I carry as well as tools J B weld and Gorilla tape you will be surprised what you can fix with those two items.

:thumbup::agree: :thumbup:

 

[Jeriatric]

Thanks guys, I'll be sure to put those items in my road kit. Right now I'm trying to get a feel for what I will want in a box (full time) near the lift at home. Cuts down on the trips to the roll-away. Dontcha know!

 

[Sarge707]

You need the 12mm thru 16mm sockets quite a bit and a 36mm for the axle nut and a very large wrench for the other side of the axle IF your going to be removing the rear wheel for service or tire changes. Also a socket for the lug nuts.
Wire stripper and a couple needle nose pliers for wire work.

I keep everything I have used at one time or another in my tool box so its all in one place.

 

[Jeriatric]

Thanks Sarge,

What are the most common Torx sizes that you seem to use....if you know off the top of your head?

I'm with you.:agree: Nothing like having what you need, or may need, within arms reach.

 

[thehawk]

Duct tape, WD-40 and my metric crescent:roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:.

thehawk

 

[Jeriatric]

Duct tape, WD-40 and my metric crescent:roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:.

thehawk

You have one of those too??????? :roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:

 

[NancysToy]

Thanks Sarge,

What are the most common Torx sizes that you seem to use....if you know off the top of your head?

I'm with you.:agree: Nothing like having what you need, or may need, within arms reach.

T-30 fits most of the Spyder screws. Some have a few T-20 screws. 6 mm hex for the drain plugs and 7 mm for the handlebars. There may be others you will need, but these are the ones to keep handy.

 

[Lamonster]

Thanks Sarge,

What are the most common Torx sizes that you seem to use....if you know off the top of your head?

I'm with you.:agree: Nothing like having what you need, or may need, within arms reach.

T-30 for most everything and depending on the year of your RT you'l need a T-25 and T-20, That's it for Torx

You'll need two 15mm for shocks and a lot of other bolts. 10mm, 13mm, 15mm, 17mm are the most commen sockets.

The way I put together my tool kit is I make a kit out of everything I ever use in the shop. If I don't use it I don't pack it for the most part. :doorag:

 

[Mspiv]

I scanned this
pretty quickly and did not not see security torq bits, you know the ones with the hole in the stars. I also did not see, might have missed it, a 1.5 ton pump jack.

I did see mention somewhere that someone uses a bulldog lift on their spyder I would love pictures of that.

 

[dancogan]

I scanned this pretty quickly and did not not see security torq bits, you know the ones with the hole in the stars...

I really don't think you'll need the security torx bits. They simply hold in some bits that go into the grommets - they're not necessary for any panel removal, at least not on the RT.

 

[Jeriatric]

I really don't think you'll need the security torx bits. They simply hold in some bits that go into the grommets - they're not necessary for any panel removal, at least not on the RT.

Whew!! :thumbup: Thought there was a fly in the ointment for a moment. Upon looking closer I could see it was a :ani29: :yes:

 

[Jeriatric]

I scanned this
pretty quickly and did not not see security torq bits, you know the ones with the hole in the stars. I also did not see, might have missed it, a 1.5 ton pump jack.

I did see mention somewhere that someone uses a bulldog lift on their spyder I would love pictures of that.

Ah ha, "security torq bits" are needed to pull the tupper ware that the glove box sets in. Not sure of any other locations at this moment......probably more?

You were right! :thumbup:

 

[NancysToy]

Ah ha, "security torq bits" are needed to pull the tupper ware that the glove box sets in. Not sure of any other locations at this moment......probably more?

You were right! :thumbup:

??? I did not have any security screws when I removed the glovebox on my 2010?

 

[Jeriatric]

??? I did not have any security screws when I removed the glovebox on my 2010?

They're not on the glove box, they're on the tupper ware just above the knee pad area of what would typically be the fuel tank area on an M/C, which the glove box sets in. I know, I'm as clear as mud. :helpsmilie:

 

[NancysToy]

They're not on the glove box, they're on the tupper ware just above the knee pad area of what would typically be the fuel tank area on an M/C, which the glove box sets in. I know, I'm as clear as mud. :helpsmilie:

Those are not for the glovebox. They hold the pegs that fit into the grommets that attach the upper Tupperware panel. They should not be loosened or removed! The pegs are angled, and very difficult to get adjusted correctly.

 

[Bob Denman]

:gaah: I am shocked and surprised at all of you... :lecturef_smilie: NOBODY mentioned getting the proper " Barley-Pop" for the 'fridge and making sure that it's the right temperature... :thumbup: :roflblack: