Putting rear wheel back on after tire change question

[cognaccruiser]

2014 RTS
I replaced my rear tire and am putting the thing back together. I have the tire bolted on, cotter pin in and shock bolt back in. I had used tape on the adjustment blocks to try and make sure they didn't move out of adjustment. I had pushed the tire forward while tightening the nuts to try make sure there was no play in the blocks and much to my dismay found that there is a little play in the blocks.
Obviously the wheel isn't quite where it should be and I have to fix that.
My question is: Do I need to take the shock bolt back out or can I leave it in and just loosen the nuts holding the wheel in place? I guess I will have to try pushing tire forward more while off the ground and tighten it again and then lower the Spyder down so the wheel is touching the ground and tighten the nut. I thought I saw somewhere about tapping the nuts/axel assembly forward with a mallet or hammer to tighten up the adjustment blocks before tightening the wheel nut.
If I'm off base in my assumptions tell me. I'm all ears and I'm tired right now and want a break anyway. :sour:

Gary

 

[jtoro1]

2014 RTS
I replaced my rear tire and am putting the thing back together. I have the tire bolted on, cotter pin in and shock bolt back in. I had used tape on the adjustment blocks to try and make sure they didn't move out of adjustment. I had pushed the tire forward while tightening the nuts to try make sure there was no play in the blocks and much to my dismay found that there is a little play in the blocks.
Obviously the wheel isn't quite where it should be and I have to fix that.
My question is: Do I need to take the shock bolt back out or can I leave it in and just loosen the nuts holding the wheel in place? I guess I will have to try pushing tire forward more while off the ground and tighten it again and then lower the Spyder down so the wheel is touching the ground and tighten the nut. I thought I saw somewhere about tapping the nuts/axel assembly forward with a mallet or hammer to tighten up the adjustment blocks before tightening the wheel nut.
If I'm off base in my assumptions tell me. I'm all ears and I'm tired right now and want a break anyway. :sour:

Gary

You do not have to loosen the shock again I never release the shock when I change tires put it on snug then go around the block for a ride will put it in reverse slam on the brakes or go forward and slam on the brakes

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

SOMETHING I LEARNED

When you start this process before you do ANYTHING ELSE ....... Check the belt alignment and tension ..... if you are happy with it ....... then check to make sure the ADJUSTMENT BOLTS - ARE SNUG ..... because if they aren't, things are going to get out of adjustment as soon as you loosen the AXEL BOLT/NUT ....... I wish BRP had made their set-up the way they do on the snow-mobiles Track Tension Adjusters ..... They work BOTH ways in and out ....the Spyder only works one way - .............. Mike :thumbup:

 

[cognaccruiser]

Mike,
I'm a little confused so bear with me. I was happy with the tension and alignment before I took the wheel off to have the tire replaced. I'm past that and putting it all back together. I taped over them to ensure the blocks wouldn't fall off and the adjustment bolts wouldn't move. So now I have to loosen the axel nut again. Are you saying that the adjustment will be out of wack when I loosen the nut? Sorry, just not quite understanding this.
Thanks,

Gary

 

[Crisis]

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...ntufun-Style-Updated-Version&highlight=brakes

 

[Crisis]

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?31077-Lamonster-Garage-Rear-Wheel-Removal-RS

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

WELL MAYBE

Mike,
I'm a little confused so bear with me. I was happy with the tension and alignment before I took the wheel off to have the tire replaced. I'm past that and putting it all back together. I taped over them to ensure the blocks wouldn't fall off and the adjustment bolts wouldn't move. So now I have to loosen the axel nut again. Are you saying that the adjustment will be out of wack when I loosen the nut? Sorry, just not quite understanding this.
Thanks,

Gary

. The way the adjustment DEVICES are made for the Spyder are imho ....sloppy ..... on snowmobiles ...the adjuster is on a threaded rod ..... when you turn one way it goes in the other way goes out .... the spyder doesn't work that way ........ If you are taping the BLOCKS because they are loose ... that is a problem ...they should be snug to start with ........if you look at a Fiche', you will see that how it works ..... Mike :thumbup:

 

[cognaccruiser]

Mike, I put tape on the blocks before I ever loosened the rear axel when I started. They weren't loose when I started to take the wheel off. The tape was just to keep the blocks from falling off or moving and hence loosing the original adjustment. Trust me, they weren't loose and I was not putting tape on because they were loose. I think you misunderstood why I put tape on.
Thanks,
Gary

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Are you saying that the adjustment will be out of wack when I loosen the nut? Sorry, just not quite understanding this.
Thanks,

Maybe. It won't be any comfort but read about my challenge here about alignment after changing the tire. Contrary to everyone's optimism, there is no guarantee the alignment won't change when changing the tire, even when you put everything back just like it was to start with. http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...nt-Problem-amp-Question&highlight=tire+washer

 

[Richardv]

Try this....

2014 RTS
I replaced my rear tire and am putting the thing back together. I have the tire bolted on, cotter pin in and shock bolt back in. I had used tape on the adjustment blocks to try and make sure they didn't move out of adjustment. I had pushed the tire forward while tightening the nuts to try make sure there was no play in the blocks and much to my dismay found that there is a little play in the blocks.
Obviously the wheel isn't quite where it should be and I have to fix that.
My question is: Do I need to take the shock bolt back out or can I leave it in and just loosen the nuts holding the wheel in place? I guess I will have to try pushing tire forward more while off the ground and tighten it again and then lower the Spyder down so the wheel is touching the ground and tighten the nut. I thought I saw somewhere about tapping the nuts/axel assembly forward with a mallet or hammer to tighten up the adjustment blocks before tightening the wheel nut.
If I'm off base in my assumptions tell me. I'm all ears and I'm tired right now and want a break anyway. :sour:

Gary

....just loosen the axle bolt a little and put your key or big wescott wrench of the bolt and hammer it forward with you rubber mallet. Do it on both side. No need to even jack the spyder. Retighten the bolt completely. ...et voila .... done, fixed.

Did it multiples times with success everytime.

 

[AeroPilot]

Depending on how low its been since the rear wheel was off

There can be a lot of dirt accumulated in the swing arm ends where the aluminum cast caps rest. I usually clean them out with a small bristle brush and rag and then they seat a little better before you start to tension the axle nut. I too like to take the bike for a spin around the block with minimal tension on the nut. The belt usually pulls the sprocket and axle forward tightening the caps so that I can finish checking the belt alignment when I pull straight back up the drive, and then with the caps tight and belt tension checked with the Krikit II gauge, then you can torque the axle nut by pushing up or forward while tightening (torquing). If everything is wiped clean and lightly lubed, the caps usually stay tight and you're good to go :2thumbs:

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

BLOCKS

Mike, I put tape on the blocks before I ever loosened the rear axel when I started. They weren't loose when I started to take the wheel off. The tape was just to keep the blocks from falling off or moving and hence loosing the original adjustment. Trust me, they weren't loose and I was not putting tape on because they were loose. I think you misunderstood why I put tape on.
Thanks,
Gary

.OK...if the blocks weren't -loose that's good , and yes that was my concern ...... Mike :thumbup:

 

[cptjam]

Button it up!

Gary, put it all together, off the jack. Loosen the rear axle, use a rubber mallet, and tap the axle snug in the adjusters. Tighten axle, jack up, spin wheel; make sure it still tracks properly. You are worried for nothing! We align bikes with 40,000 miles, and all 3 wheels are way off. Yours will be fine! Call if you get stuck. Joe

 

[cognaccruiser]

Thanks all for the responses, tips and ideas. Will get it done today.

Gary