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Proper Oil Level Verification Procedure on 1330-engined Spyders

like some others -- I check it either hot or cold - I know where the oil should read in either situation --

their warm up procedure seems hokey
 
Are you saying that if you come in off a hot run, let it idle for a minute or so to stabilize things, and then take the reading you will be in error? I know that's what you are saying but I have to ask again. Just don't comprehend that.
Click to expand...
With 3 scavenge pumps and 1 pressure pump, the longer idle time allows the scavenge pumps to stabilize the quantity of oil returned in the reservoir for a more accurate

Steve, what about the qty of oil to add after an oil/filter change. Understand the qty has been changed from 5.6 quarts to 5 quarts. Pls clarify/verify. Thanks.
Click to expand...

  • SE6: Engine oil, filter replacement: 4.7L (5 US qt)
  • SE6: Engine oil, filter & HCM surface filter replacement: 4.9L (5.2 US qt)
  • SM6: Engine oil, filter replacement: 4.5L (4.8 US qt)
Also, much confusion about oil change interval---after the initial break in service at 3000 miles, is the next oil change done at 9300 miles or 12,300 miles??
Click to expand...
From the operation's guide, the break in for service is 3000 miles. Other maintenance intervals are every 9300 MI or 1 year - whichever comes first. In other words, the first time the unit has its service done the unit will have 3000 miles. Then, the first regular maintenance + next oil change will be at 12300 miles (9300 miles after the initial service). Afterwards, every 9300 miles should continue to be the norm.

Hope this helps answer your questions.
 
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Thank you very much

:thumbup: thanks for the clarification on the recommended amount of oil. I must assume that with my new '14 RTS SE that, as it is showing a little over the "full" mark on the dip stick that I should remove a half quart. It probably left the factory with 5.6 quarts in it. Would this assumption be correct?
Thanks again Steve for the info.
 
Last edited:
oil questions

BRPcare said:
With 3 scavenge pumps and 1 pressure pump, the longer idle time allows the scavenge pumps to stabilize the quantity of oil returned in the reservoir for a more accurate


  • SE6: Engine oil, filter replacement: 4.7L (5 US qt)
  • SE6: Engine oil, filter & HCM surface filter replacement: 4.9L (5.2 US qt)
  • SM6: Engine oil, filter replacement: 4.5L (4.8 US qt)
From the operation's guide, the break in for service is 3000 miles. Other maintenance intervals are every 9300 MI or 1 year - whichever comes first. In other words, the first time the unit has its service done the unit will have 3000 miles. Then, the first regular maintenance + next oil change will be at 12300 miles (9300 miles after the initial service). Afterwards, every 9300 miles should continue to be the norm.

Hope this helps answer your questions.
Click to expand...

Thanks Steve. That cleared up a lot of questions. Any chance that BRP will issue a longer oil dip stick for the 2014 RT's??
 
BRPcare said:
With 3 scavenge pumps and 1 pressure pump, the longer idle time allows the scavenge pumps to stabilize the quantity of oil returned in the reservoir for a more accurate


  • SE6: Engine oil, filter replacement: 4.7L (5 US qt)
  • SE6: Engine oil, filter & HCM surface filter replacement: 4.9L (5.2 US qt)
  • SM6: Engine oil, filter replacement: 4.5L (4.8 US qt)
From the operation's guide, the break in for service is 3000 miles. Other maintenance intervals are every 9300 MI or 1 year - whichever comes first. In other words, the first time the unit has its service done the unit will have 3000 miles. Then, the first regular maintenance + next oil change will be at 12300 miles (9300 miles after the initial service). Afterwards, every 9300 miles should continue to be the norm.

Hope this helps answer your questions.
Click to expand...

So which engine is in the 2014 Spyder RT LT? and how much oil does it take?
 
For those asking about a new dip stick for the 1330 ACE motor, don't think a new or different dip stick is needed. IMO if you follow the oil checking procedures detailed by Steve in this thread the dip stick will register full or near full with 5 quarts of oil on-board.
 
gypsy_100 said:
The normal operating temp is fine, and not unlike the V-twin. It's the 10-minute idle after the engine is at normal operating temp that seems a bit much. Are you saying that if you come in off a hot run, let it idle for a minute or so to stabilize things, and then take the reading you will be in error? I know that's what you are saying but I have to ask again. Just don't comprehend that.
Click to expand...

It's easy to comprehend. The BRP design engineers get paid by the hour.

It's like FORD products. You need a box full of "special tools" to work on their cars. Those design engineers go out and party their brains out and then design a bunch of tools. Then they take those tools and build a car with them:joke:
Ron
 
zbunker said:
It's easy to comprehend. The BRP design engineers get paid by the hour.

It's like FORD products. You need a box full of "special tools" to work on their cars. Those design engineers go out and party their brains out and then design a bunch of tools. Then they take those tools and build a car with them:joke:
Ron
Click to expand...


Have a buddy working for GM in Flint, MI.. That is his exact job. Make the tools that are needed to work on the vehicles. :popcorn: Tom :trike:
 
I know from experience with older Harleys that when they have sat for awhile, the oil can leak past the check valve and into the engine. If you checked the oil in the tank it would be low, which is why you check it after you run it for a while to pump the oil back into the tank. I don't know if this is the reason for BRP's oil check procedure but it sounds like it.
 
The service department does not know of this change

BRPcare said:
With 3 scavenge pumps and 1 pressure pump, the longer idle time allows the scavenge pumps to stabilize the quantity of oil returned in the reservoir for a more accurate


  • SE6: Engine oil, filter replacement: 4.7L (5 US qt)
  • SE6: Engine oil, filter & HCM surface filter replacement: 4.9L (5.2 US qt)
  • SM6: Engine oil, filter replacement: 4.5L (4.8 US qt)
From the operation's guide, the break in for service is 3000 miles. Other maintenance intervals are every 9300 MI or 1 year - whichever comes first. In other words, the first time the unit has its service done the unit will have 3000 miles. Then, the first regular maintenance + next oil change will be at 12300 miles (9300 miles after the initial service). Afterwards, every 9300 miles should continue to be the norm.

Hope this helps answer your questions.
Click to expand...

Steve,
Your posts have always been welcome.
I recently changed the oil and filter on my ride with the BRP kit and added the 5 US qts that you recommended.
I do this so I will know my machine and because I enjoy the experience and like saving some bucks. And I did save $ on the service check because they did not have to charge the labor. Thank goodness I do not have to make a living wrenching. I would starve because I am so slow.

I took the RT to the dealer yesterday for the 3000 check and they added oil because it was low they said. The service writer was not interesting in me emailing your post to them because they only go by the manual.

So now, I am confused. Is there a change to the manual that this dealership has not received or has not posted to their manual? I would be willing to walk that piece of paper into the service department.
Thanks
Steve S
 
BRPcare said:
Hi everyone,
There have been some questions on the right way for checking your oil on the 1330 engine. Below is the correct procedure:

Given the oil system design of the 1330 engine, oil level verification must be done under specific conditions which can influence the quantity of measurable oil in the engine.

These conditions are:

  • Engine oil temperature must be between 80°C and 95°C (176°F and 203°F) which is considered as being the engine's normal operating temperature. Don't mistake coolant temperature for engine oil temperature! Coolant will heat up faster than the engine oil.
  • Engine oil temperature is crucial since its volume changes based on temperature; that's enough to affect the measurable level.
  • Engine must idle 10 minutes. The 1330 engine is a dry sump design with 3 scavenge pumps and 1 pressure pump, 10 minutes of idle time allows the scavenge pumps to stabilize the quantity of oil returned.

Complete oil level verification procedure:

  1. Bring engine to operating temperature.
  2. Ensure vehicle is on a level surface.
  3. Allow engine to idle for 10 minutes.
  4. Stop the engine.
  5. Within 2 minutes of stopping the engine:
    1. Remove and wipe the dipstick clean.
    2. Insert dipstick and completely screw it in.
    3. Remove dipstick and read oil level on dipstick.
  6. Adjust level as necessary without overfilling.

Tips and Tricks:

Here are 2 ways the crucial criteria can be reached:

  • An engine started cold (20°C or 68°F) will take approximately 25 minutes to reach oil level verification criteria (oil temperature and idle time). Oil level can be reliably verified when the radiator fans have cycled ON twice,
or

  • The unit can be taken on a 15 km (9 mile) drive (normal riding) or a 6 km (4 mile) drive in 1st gear at 50 km/h (30 mph) which is approx at 4400 rpm THEN idled until the radiator fans have cycled ON twice.
When performing an oil change on a cold engine, the above recommendations must be done to reach oil level verification criteria. When performing an oil change on a hot engine, the new oil will heat up faster since the engine is hot therefore letting the engine idle until 10 minutes or until the radiator fans have cycled ON twice indicates the oil level can be verified.
We thus recommend checking the oil level at the end of a decent ride following the complete oil level verification procedure as outlined above.
​
Click to expand...

Hi,
One would think there would be a better way to check the oil level. Just imagine you come home from an all day into the late evening ride. The next day, you see a puddle of oil under the machine. A closer inspection reveals a slight trail of oil down the drive way and into the road. Now you have no idea how long and how much the machine has been leaking.
Would you take the machine on the "correct procedure" run to find out that there is no oil in the machine:yikes: It kinda stinks that there isn't a way to determine oil levels on a cold engine.
Ron
 
Thanks so much for posting the proper procedure

I appreciate that BRP care has taken the time to help us out.

Just a couple of comments. This is a long thread, so I may be duplicating what other posters have already said.

There needs to be a "Go-NoGo" oil level when the bike is cold. If you have a low oil level, do you really want to go out for a ride, and then let the engine idle for 10 long minutes before you find out about it ? Couldn't you potentially damage the engine this way ?

I'd like to see a chart that identifies the accuracy at the specific time. Something like this:

Cold: 95% accurate
Hot No Idle: 97% accurate
Hot 1 min Idle 98% accurate
Hot 5 min idle 99% accurate
Hot 10 min idle 100% accurate.

These are my own numbers that I've made up as an example. DO NOT FOLLOW THIS CHART.

It just seems too damn complicated to perform an incredibly simple task, that if inaccurate, could cause major damage.

And, what if someone were to err on the side of caution by filling up the oil reservoir to the fill point when cold. This would potentially add more than the specified amount of oil.
What happens ? Do you merely waste a few ounces of oil, or does something bad occur.

Just my opinion, I could be wrong. I'm sure somebody on this forum will let me knnow if I am.
 
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