Premature clurch wear on 2011 RTS SE5

[Wrongway]

Well.......the spyder is in getting a new clutch.
I bought my 2011 RT used in August with 18,000 miles.
Now at 25,000 miles the clutch is slipping quite noticeably and all that's left to do now is pay the dealer lots of money ($1300.00)
The dealer has all the necessary parts in stock and is hoping to have it done today so knowing how life goes I should get it back tomorrow. At least they gave me a nice loaner (2016 RTL) so I've had a chance to compare the new with the old.

When I first got the spyder I actually noticed what I call a surging at 50mph and up.
In hindsight I'm guessing that this was the beginning of the clutch wear.

As much as I tried to keep up the revs when shifting and trying not to lug the engine when cruising, I suspect I'm guilty of not doing what I knew I should do.

When I get the spyder back I'm going to try riding in trailer towing mode which will force the revs to stay higher.

So in closing all I can say is......Keep the revs up folks because it's true what they say about wearing out the clutch prematurely.

 

[classicvw]

Hi Greg. I wouldn't beat yourself up over this. Like you said, when you got the Spyder the clutch was showing signs of wear already so I'd put any "blame" on the previous owner, he probably didn't keep the revs up.

Just enjoy the heck out of it when you get it back!

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

SLIPPING CLUTCH

Hi Greg. I wouldn't beat yourself up over this. Like you said, when you got the Spyder the clutch was showing signs of wear already so I'd put any "blame" on the previous owner, he probably didn't keep the revs up.

Just enjoy the heck out of it when you get it back!

:agree: .... .... and I don't know how you could determine this, ....but if the oil in the engine NOW isn't the right kind this could be the issue ....Also the OIL level needs to where it should be ............... Mike :thumbup:

 

[Highwayman2013]

Make sure the oil is the correct specification and run that engine around 5,000 RPMs.

 

[SpyderAnn01]

When we do alignments I show our customers their RPM Profile in BUDS so they will know if they’re lugging the engine. I usually warn those with the Vtwin that they face a costly repair if they don’t keep the rpm up.

 

[edmarble]

Keep an eye on this

I wouldn’t be so quick to write this off as worn clutch plates at that mileage. I have a 2014 SE5 and have had two different clutch solenoids fail. One at 6k and one at 29k miles. Both were replaced under warranty and both felt like worn clutch plates. Both were diagnosed by pressure testing the clutch system. I would ask the dealer whether they pressure tested and what the numbers were. I would also ask to look at the old clutch plates to ensure they are really worn out. If you still get slippage after replacing the clutch, it might just be a solenoid problem. If it’s a reputable dealer, they probably wouldn’t intentionally sell you a more expensive repair, but if they just assumed that slipping means worn out clutch, they may be fixing something that’s not broken.

 

[ARtraveler]

All good advice above. :yes::yes:

 

[Wrongway]

Only BRP oil since I bought it. 2 oil changes.
As far as a solenoid, I suspect not because the slipping also occurs without shifting. I mean if I'm going along in 4th at 6,000 rpm and give it gas, I can feel it slipping then as well.
Anyway, I just spoke with the dealer and the job is nearly complete and I'll pick it up tomorrow if the mechanics road test goes well.

 

[Chupaca]

What they said....

:agree: you may have helped in the issue but it does look more like it came with the issue. May be the other owner did not use the right oil and did not maintain the proper rpm's when ryding. Thing is now you will be in charge of the whole thing...enjoy the ryde it will be much better...hyea:

 

[billybovine]

As Ann suggested. Get your rpm profile printout from the dealer. It's in the shop anyway.

Yes it is true that running a SE5 at too low a rpm will damage the clutch. But the risk to the clutch is greatly exaggerated by folks commenting on this forum. Regularly running your rpm at 3,000 or below, in gears 2 to 5 will certainly destroy your clutch over time.

The other issue is engine lugging. Because of the engine power curve. Regularly running your engine below 4,000 rpm in gears 3 to 5 will, depending on driving conditions, lug the engine. This will cause your fuel consumption to go way up with very little engine power for quick initial acceleration. This goes for a SE5 or a SM5.

 

[BajaRon]

I agree with those who suggest wrong oil. If the previous owner did not use the correct oil spec the clutch could have started slipping on them. If they ran it very long that way, even changing the oil to a correct product will not save the clutch. Once the damage has begun, it's pretty much downhill from there.

The other suggestions are also possible contributors. But I agree with those who say you don't necessarily have to keep the RPM's over 5,000. If you are on a downhill grade you can run a much lower RPM. Gradual acceleration also does not require a high RPM.

The basic rule of thumb is, Heavy Load on the Clutch, higher RPM. Light Load on the Clutch, a lower RPM is not going to hurt. In most cases keeping the RPM at 3,500 or above will work just as well as a 5,000+ RPM with better fuel mileage and less oil consumption.

The V-Twin engine likes to spin. It's not a Harley.