Power wire out of RT Back case

[Pennyrick]

I searched for a thread or two on this topic but came up empty. Maybe someone can assist.

We are leaving on a trip at month end and I want to use my Garmin Nuvi on the RT. I have used a RAM mount to get it where I want it up front but the battery power on the Nuvi will run down fast. I purchased a power extension from Radio Shack that I can use to extend the Garmin power supply out of the back case, under the seat and up to the unit. I don't really care if the wire shows up front because I don't intend to leave this on the Spyder permanently.

What I am having trouble with is running the wire out of the back case, to go under the seat. Is there an easy way to get into the area on the left side of the case where the second antenna (CB, I guess) would mount? I don't want to start removing screws until I know where I am going. I prefer not to drill a hole as the extension has large fittings at both ends, but if that is the only way, it would be nice to know the ideal location for it.

 

[Bob Denman]

I'm guessing here... but maybe somebody can clean up my thoughts!
If you want to get to the 12v plug in the top trunk, you're going to have to start removing the inner panels until things start becoming apparent. That's where things get sketchy to me because I haven't gotten that deep into the tupperware yet myself! pps:
But that's the best source for the power that you need! :thumbup:

 

[NancysToy]

There is no easy way. If you were not leaving so soon, I would recommend adding a Powerlet outlet up front and a Powerlet USB adapter. I use that to power my Nuvi. You also have to use a short Garmin adapter cord to fool the GPS, so it will charge instead of looking for a USB connection. Powerlet sells these, too.

No good way out of the rear trunk without standing on your head and holding your mouth just right. In the short run a fused cigarette pigtail running directly to the battery would provide what you need. You can probably find those parts locally.

 

[Phil]

:agree::agree:
What Scotty said.....

 

[Schultzi]

I searched for a thread or two on this topic but came up empty. Maybe someone can assist.

We are leaving on a trip at month end and I want to use my Garmin Nuvi on the RT. I have used a RAM mount to get it where I want it up front but the battery power on the Nuvi will run down fast. I purchased a power extension from Radio Shack that I can use to extend the Garmin power supply out of the back case, under the seat and up to the unit. I don't really care if the wire shows up front because I don't intend to leave this on the Spyder permanently.

What I am having trouble with is running the wire out of the back case, to go under the seat. Is there an easy way to get into the area on the left side of the case where the second antenna (CB, I guess) would mount? I don't want to start removing screws until I know where I am going. I prefer not to drill a hole as the extension has large fittings at both ends, but if that is the only way, it would be nice to know the ideal location for it.

Here is what i did,
I cut a little groove inthe plastic, so when you close the trunk seal will not pinch or mash the wire and run it down the same hole where the hinch is located. see pics

 

[bluestratos]

I have two methods on mine. I installed a fuse panel in the frunk that is relay controlled so it only powers up when the bike is running. When I turn the key off the GPS turns off automatically. If that is too much work, just buy a female extension and wire it directly to the battery and then run the wire up to the area under the mirror. I then snake my wire from the GPS over the dash to the mirror and down behind where the mirror meets the dash. I plug the GPS into the female side and its done and you see nothing more than the power wired from the factory feed. Mine has traffic built into the wire so it has to be out in the air to recieve a good signal anyways.

You only need to run a + wire from the battery and pick a ground up on the frame that you can see when you remove the mirror and the first access panel. If you want to really hide the + then remove the next panel and run the new fused wire along the frame next to the other hot wire you see coming from the battery. You should be able to buy a female access plug at radio shack that has either clamps or a mail end (this may be what you already have).

I keep a baggy in my glove box that fits over the GPS when it rains. I snap the GPS bracket right over the bracket and it is as water tight as necessary.

I bought a heavy duty suction mount form Bestbuy, it has a much larger suction disc and it has a ratched suction arm. I clean the windscreen, then pull the suction cup back with the little tap to get as much air out as possible then crank the ratchet hard. If done right it will not let go, any weather.

I also have drilled some holes just above the power plug in the trunk and can push wires out into the hinge area above and then down and out the back rest next to the speaker. I drill the holes with an electricians step drill bit. You can buy a rubber grommet with a small center hole then slice it open on oned side. That way you can install it after the wire is already in place. I am using this method to charge the intercom I have mounted to my helmet when the battery runs low.

Good luck,

Randy

 

[GeoffCee]

I purchased a power extension from Radio Shack that I can use to extend the Garmin power supply out of the back case, under the seat and up to the unit.

The power socket in the trunk is live even when the Spyder isn't running, so plugging in there is almost the same as connecting directly to the battery, except that there is a 3 amp fuse in the rear trunk's power socket circuit.


The job you want to do would be easier if you were to forget about using the rear trunk's power supply altogether and make your own fused connection directly off the battery. An in-line fuse of, say, 5 amps would be sufficient. One side of the fuse would be connected to the (+) positive side of the battery and the other side of the fuse would connect to the wire which goes to the centre connection pin of the Radio Shack's extension socket. Of course, you would have to take the Radio Shack connector apart. The other wire in the Radio Shack extension cable would go to the (-) negative side of the battery to complete the circuit. :thumbup:

 

[NancysToy]

The power socket in the trunk is live even when the Spyder isn't running, so plugging in there is almost the same as connecting directly to the battery, except that there is a 3 amp fuse in the rear trunk's power socket circuit.


The job you want to do would be easier if you were to forget about using the rear trunk's power supply altogether and make your own fused connection directly off the battery. An in-line fuse of, say, 5 amps would be sufficient. One side of the fuse would be connected to the (+) positive side of the battery and the other side of the fuse would connect to the wire which goes to the centre connection pin of the Radio Shack's extension socket. Of course, you would have to take the Radio Shack connector apart. The other wire in the Radio Shack extension cable would go to the (-) negative side of the battery to complete the circuit. :thumbup:

The RT accessory outlet has a 10 amp fuse, unlike the RS.

 

[GeoffCee]

The RT accessory outlet has a 10 amp fuse, unlike the RS.

Then you are ahead of my 2011 Spyder RT Operator's Guide.

Page 49, quote: "NOTICE: The 12 volt power outlet is not designed to supply current of more than 3 amperes."

Naturally enough, Scotty, I checked before I posted.

 

[NancysToy]

Then you are ahead of my 2011 Spyder RT Operator's Guide.

Page 49, quote: "NOTICE: The 12 volt power outlet is not designed to supply current of more than 3 amperes."

Naturally enough, Scotty, I checked before I posted.

You have apparently discovered an error in the operators guide, probably carried over from the RS. The RT has a 10 amp fuse for this circuit. The shop manual wiring diagram is correct.

 

[thehawk]

Ok, Scotty ...

... you're holding out on me. Where do I get a 2011 shop manual diagram?

I've been trying to find one since I bought my RT on June 1st.

thehawk

 

[GeoffCee]

You have apparently discovered an error in the operators guide, probably carried over from the RS. The RT has a 10 amp fuse for this circuit. The shop manual wiring diagram is correct.

This error deserves some publicity, there is a huge difference in the range of stuff which can be powered from a 10 amp circuit compared to a 3 amp. I fitted a switched/relayed 10 amp socket under the left pillion handrail where there is a universal power socket blank waiting to be used. Not sure I would have done that if I'd known the RT's rear socket-in-a-box was rated at 10 amps.

There is a warning in the Operator's Guide that if the rear socket is used without the engine running the battery may go flat. No surprise there if you can take up to 10 amps from it! :sour:

 

[Pennyrick]

Thanks for everyone's input.

I took the idea from Schultzi and ran the wire out through the case where the hinge is located. Filed a small groove in the back case, ran the wire out inside the hinge and covered the groove with a rubber clip. The 12 v plug extension is switched so I can turn it on and off once it is plugged in.

Ran the wire down under the seat and then along the left inside of the tupperware panel, along the inside of the front panel and into the frunk. Did the same thing with the wire going into the frunk as the back case. Filed a groove and covered it with a rubber clip.

Now I can take the GPS power cord and run it along under the mirror and connect inside the frunk.

Since the power cord is fused for 10 amps (thanks Scotty), I may check out buying a small cooler that runs off 12 volts to keep beverages iced when traveling.

 

[NancysToy]

... you're holding out on me. Where do I get a 2011 shop manual diagram?

I've been trying to find one since I bought my RT on June 1st.

thehawk

I don't have a 2011 wiring diagram yet, either, just the 2010. Rest assured that the 2011 Spyder accessory circuit is still 10 amps, however. I checked the fuse box again to make sure. F9 is still 10 amps, just like in 2010. This was publicized feature for the 2010 RT, so I don't se any reason that they would change it.