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Possible clutch problem

jayallday01

New member
Good morning folks,

I am in the process of getting my Spyder, 2008 GS SM5, back on the road after a long hiatus. I got a new battery installed and fired the bike up. Well, when I pulled the clutch in and dropped it into 1st, the Spyder lurched forward and stalled. This happened again and again. I notice the clutch lever doesnt have the familiar tension it once had. I am by no means a mechanic, so could it be a wire that engages the clutch came loose? Or is it an electronic issue? I am hoping you guys can give a bit of a diagnosis before I take it to a shop. Hopefully its something my neighbor, who is mechanically inclined, can fix at a minimal cost. Thank you.
 
Last edited:
Good morning folks,

I am in the process of getting my Spyder back on the road after a long hiatus. I got a new battery installed and fired the bike up. Well, when I pulled the clutch in and dropped it into 1st, the Spyder lurched forward and stalled. This happened again and again. I notice the clutch lever doesnt have the familiar tension it once had. I am by no means a mechanic, so could it be a wire that engages the clutch came loose? Or is it an electronic issue? I am hoping you guys can give a bit of a diagnosis before I take it to a shop. Hopefully its something my neighbor, who is mechanically inclined, can fix at a minimal cost. Thank you.


It is a hydraulic clutch & has no cables just a hose going from the clutch master cylinder on the left side of the handlebars down to the right side of the engine.

Take the top off the master cylinder & make sure the fluid level is where it should be. Top up with the grade of brake fluid embossed on the master cylinder cap.

You may also have to remove the rhs engine pod & bleed the clutch.
 
It is a hydraulic clutch & has no cables just a hose going from the clutch master cylinder on the left side of the handlebars down to the right side of the engine.

Take the top off the master cylinder & make sure the fluid level is where it should be. Top up with the grade of brake fluid embossed on the master cylinder cap.

You may also have to remove the rhs engine pod & bleed the clutch.

You guys are awesome! Saved me hundreds of dollars. I was looking in that little master cylinder window and had it been a snake....ha. Thank you so much.
 
Little checking..

If it was the low fluid and bleeding you should still check and see why. It may be leaking from the o-rings which should be replaced. Mine is a 2012 RS Sm5 and though I ryde all year my shifting was getting hard and found the low fluid was causing this. No fluid on the floor...refilled and some time after was low again. When I pulled the slave cylinder cap I found it leaking....:lecturef_smilie:

20170314_122917.jpg 20170314_122933.jpg
Sorry side ways on the pictures but that would be the cap and the leak....
 
If it was the low fluid and bleeding you should still check and see why. It may be leaking from the o-rings which should be replaced. Mine is a 2012 RS Sm5 and though I ryde all year my shifting was getting hard and found the low fluid was causing this. No fluid on the floor...refilled and some time after was low again. When I pulled the slave cylinder cap I found it leaking....:lecturef_smilie:

View attachment 146800 View attachment 146801
Sorry side ways on the pictures but that would be the cap and the leak....

Smart move, I will be sure to keep an eye on that.
 
How did it go?

The reservoir was almost dry. Not sure where it could have gone, but then too the bike has been sitting in my garage for an extended period. And I never checked levels since I first bought it. Regardless of that, the process was easy and that familiar tension is back in the clutch. Bike is holding gear with no problem. Now I think I need a gear position sensor. I will be in first gear...then it will show 5th, then 3rd, then Reverse, etc. I have some new plugs and wires coming as well.
 
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