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Popping and running rouGH AT 3-5000 rpm

Recluze

New member
I have been blessed with 33,000 trouble free miles. Well that party is over.

So I changed the oil and changed the plugs. To be fair I went from an "8" to a "9" on the heat range of the plugs at the dealers recomendation. I have the heat sink paste on the plugs. Plugs are torque to spec.

Replaced a spark plug wire that I broke screwing around with the plugs.

Started it up and oh baby it ran like C%$p. Took it for a ride and the engine stopped running at one point. No fault codes. No limping.

Brought it home and pulled the plugs. The forward cylinder looked like it was running rich-kinda black.

Disconnected the battery and let everything reset. Started it and it really ran bad shutting off several times. Checked for fault codes but there are none.

Obviously I did something in changing out the plugs but I am at a lost as to what. I pinched off the Evaporative hose and that did not improve things. I am stock except for a ground wire from the coil to ground.

Wow! I miss the Spyder I fell in love with. Any ideas?
 
Was the plug wire you replaced the one that now goes to the rich looking plug?
 
Rule #1

"First place you look, is last place you touched." :shocked:

I have run one heat range hotter in my SE5 since new as we start and stop it so often without it getting a chance to warm up.

This was done at the Dealer before we even took delivery as it had fouled out the stock plugs on them letting people hear it run before we got there to pick it up. :yikes:

They they knew we'd also be doing this so that is why they installed the one range hotter plugs, then and we have not had an issue even once with these plugs or their hotter range.

That said, it could be as simple as the plugs you now have are too cold or there could be an ignition miss to that cylinder?

I did not see if you said the cylinder running bad was the one with the replaced wire? Is it?

MM
 
You guys are too good.


First the wire I replaced was on the left side of the bike. The cylinder running rich or missing is on the right side.

So after letting my pea sized brain percolate on what you guys were saying, I woke up this morning knowing that I had a plug wire that was not fully on the plug. I just knew it! All indications were that this was the problem. Imagine my disappointment when I found out that this was NOT the problem.

But " The first place to look is the last place you touched" is wisdom. When it popped and sputtered to a stop on a rather cool morning I noticed a wisp of smoke coming from the side of the carb. Looking closer I found that the evaporative canister purge valve line was disconnected. Not only was it disconected but the brass/alloy tube fitting was in the end of the hose and not in the carb where it belonged.

I took it out of the hose and put it back in the carb but it was really loose. So I tapped it a bit with a drift punch and it went quite a ways in there. ( I think I am going to add some stud mount to this) I reconnected the hose and the Spyder is now purring like a well fed kitten.

I have elaborated on the details of this because this fitting being loose gives results that are very similar to the purge valve/ software/ rough running, popping problems that some are having. If pinching off the purge line does not help it run better, maybe this fitting is loose.

Lamont can probably postulate on the theory of all this. I am happy for the help I received here and having my toy back in order. Thanks for those who chimed in because I was at a lost.
 
Glad you figured it out and glad you shared the fix with us. :thumbup:

You guys are too good.


First the wire I replaced was on the left side of the bike. The cylinder running rich or missing is on the right side.

So after letting my pea sized brain percolate on what you guys were saying, I woke up this morning knowing that I had a plug wire that was not fully on the plug. I just knew it! All indications were that this was the problem. Imagine my disappointment when I found out that this was NOT the problem.

But " The first place to look is the last place you touched" is wisdom. When it popped and sputtered to a stop on a rather cool morning I noticed a wisp of smoke coming from the side of the carb. Looking closer I found that the evaporative canister purge valve line was disconnected. Not only was it disconected but the brass/alloy tube fitting was in the end of the hose and not in the carb where it belonged.

I took it out of the hose and put it back in the carb but it was really loose. So I tapped it a bit with a drift punch and it went quite a ways in there. ( I think I am going to add some stud mount to this) I reconnected the hose and the Spyder is now purring like a well fed kitten.

I have elaborated on the details of this because this fitting being loose gives results that are very similar to the purge valve/ software/ rough running, popping problems that some are having. If pinching off the purge line does not help it run better, maybe this fitting is loose.

Lamont can probably postulate on the theory of all this. I am happy for the help I received here and having my toy back in order. Thanks for those who chimed in because I was at a lost.
 
I have been blessed with 33,000 trouble free miles. Well that party is over.

So I changed the oil and changed the plugs. To be fair I went from an "8" to a "9" on the heat range of the plugs at the dealers recomendation. I have the heat sink paste on the plugs. Plugs are torque to spec.

Replaced a spark plug wire that I broke screwing around with the plugs.

Started it up and oh baby it ran like C%. Took it for a ride and the engine stopped running at one point. No fault codes. No limping.

Brought it home and pulled the plugs. The forward cylinder looked like it was running rich-kinda black.

Disconnected the battery and let everything reset. Started it and it really ran bad shutting off several times. Checked for fault codes but there are none.

Obviously I did something in changing out the plugs but I am at a lost as to what. I pinched off the Evaporative hose and that did not improve things. I am stock except for a ground wire from the coil to ground.

Wow! I miss the Spyder I fell in love with. Any ideas?


There some spyder spark plug wires that are failing.... pen holes on the boots causing it to ground out on the engine...
 
Thanks for the heads up on the pin holes. I will fire it up at night and see if I see a light show in there. My problem is fixed but the next one may be lurking. I only do one problem every 33k. That is all I can handle with my limited mental capacity.
 
I have been blessed with 33,000 trouble free miles. Well that party is over.

So I changed the oil and changed the plugs. To be fair I went from an "8" to a "9" on the heat range of the plugs at the dealers recomendation. I have the heat sink paste on the plugs. Plugs are torque to spec.

Replaced a spark plug wire that I broke screwing around with the plugs.

Started it up and oh baby it ran like C%. Took it for a ride and the engine stopped running at one point. No fault codes. No limping.

Brought it home and pulled the plugs. The forward cylinder looked like it was running rich-kinda black.

Disconnected the battery and let everything reset. Started it and it really ran bad shutting off several times. Checked for fault codes but there are none.

Obviously I did something in changing out the plugs but I am at a lost as to what. I pinched off the Evaporative hose and that did not improve things. I am stock except for a ground wire from the coil to ground.

Wow! I miss the Spyder I fell in love with. Any ideas?
Well, if'n ya got a little dab of b.r.p. anti-seize,:yikes: on the center electrode (easy too do) of the plug that will short it out big time, I been there & done that!!
 
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