Plastic Radiator Canister Cracked

[spyderdips]

Rode to work today and noticed radiator fluid under the spyder ('09 RS SM5, 23.5k miles) and in the right wheel well. Found out that the plastic radiator canister had a crack in it and there was fluid all over. This is the first time I have removed more than 2 panels off my spyder myself, so for many of the folks of this forum this might be obvious but for me it was like a treasure hunt. So with the help of a colleague drove to the nearest gas station and got the following antifreeze as the level of fluid in the canister was drastically low.

Once I topped it up to the "max" line started the spyder again and let it idle for a while and then it showed the leak as below. There is a white line in the center of the picture which is actually the liquid spraying out of the crack.

Switched off the spyder and drove to home depot and got the following glue.

The tape did not hold but the glue did the trick to seal the crack. Following pic after sealing the crack.

I was able to ride back home (30 miles) no issues. So now the question is how do I go about replacing this canister. Are there any detailed instructions that someone can send so that I can adventure it or is it recommended to get this done at the dealer ? I have changed my battery and installed spyderpops heat attachment (the basic one), that's it no other spyder experience. Do I have to get just the canister or the connecting hose/tube and metal clamps etc also needs to be replaced.

I just had service done about a week or so back, so is it just a my bad luck that this happened now?

Let me know guys,
Thanks in advance,

DS

 

[Chupaca]

Little checking..

This was an issue on the older models and they came out with an improved version. If you are doing your own work it is well worth getting a shop manual online it will make things so much easier.:thumbup:

 

[IGETAROUND]

radiator canister cracked

One other thing to consider is you now need to completely drain your coolant and replace it all. Bad things happen when you mix antifreeze colors. nojoke:yikes:

And yes there was a service bulletin on changing these canisters; check with your local dealer.

 

[r1100rider]

One other thing to consider is you now need to completely drain your coolant and replace it all. Bad things happen when you mix antifreeze colors. nojoke:yikes:

And yes there was a service bulletin on changing these canisters; check with your local dealer.

Don't forget to take hose off on lower radiator to drain many have ruined the radiator trying to remove the drain plug which cracks the glue job

 

[Culpjp]

One other thing to consider is you now need to completely drain your coolant and replace it all. Bad things happen when you mix antifreeze colors. nojoke:yikes:

And yes there was a service bulletin on changing these canisters; check with your local dealer.

What is the correct color to get? Even BRP sells two types. My 08 GS has the green in it.

 

[Big Arm]

I had to replace my tank last summer, on my '08 GS. The dealer did check with BRP, but it wasn't covered. Cost was around $60 - $65. I agree with the above poster, who stated to remove the lower hose from the radiator to drain. Do not remove the drain plug. It's really not that hard of a job to change out. Good luck.

 

[Trbayth]

Our bikes do not have DexCool in them. As long as you use an antifreeze that is safe for aluminum engines it doesn't matter what color it is.

While I was tracking down the hose leak last year I topped off with green (safe for aluminum.) When I drained and flushed last year (removed the drain plug btw with no ill effects) there were no clumps, no sludge, just slightly less orange antifreeze. Flushed with distilled water, still no problems. Filled it with green and it's been fine ever since.

Don't overthink this. :thumbup:

 

[Reginald]

Was changing my coolant with the BRP green fluid and needed to get more for a good flush. Found out it's not made anymore and only orange was available at the shop. Ouch!


According to the shop a bulliten says you can't mix it, but the Tech line say's you can. Huh. Flushed once with orange and refiled with orange. The problem with this is that only a third of the fluid drains out (2.2 qts of 3.2 qts). Means a little green is left.

Any insight on the issue?

 

[Cruzr Joe]

Our bikes do not have DexCool in them. As long as you use an antifreeze that is safe for aluminum engines it doesn't matter what color it is.

While I was tracking down the hose leak last year I topped off with green (safe for aluminum.) When I drained and flushed last year (removed the drain plug btw with no ill effects) there were no clumps, no sludge, just slightly less orange antifreeze. Flushed with distilled water, still no problems. Filled it with green and it's been fine ever since.

Don't overthink this. :thumbup:

If you mix the two different color antifreeze's from BRP it will coagulate and screw up your radiator system, BRP specifically states DO NOT MIX DIFFERENT COLOR ANTIFREEZE'S.

Cruzr Joe

 

[Trbayth]

If you mix the two different color antifreeze's from BRP it will coagulate and screw up your radiator system, BRP specifically states DO NOT MIX DIFFERENT COLOR ANTIFREEZE'S.

Cruzr Joe

Where? I've read my owners manual (and the relevant portions of the shop manual) multiple times and can not find anywhere where BRP says to not mix different color antifreezes.

And as I said in my original reply, when I changed and flushed my antifreeze, there was no coagulation.

 

[Koop]

The tape you used is a self-fusing wrap - it only sticks to itself and will not adhere to the surface. It's for wrapping a cracked hose or pipe or insulation on a wire or cable.

 

[PistonBlown]

I've found my Spyder pretty easy to work on once I got over my initial worry about the differences from a 'normal' motorbike. The RS's are straightforward really and it is satisfying to work it out for yourself. Problem is now you've started tinkering you'll find all sorts of changes you want to make as well as the normal maintenance