• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Phil's 2014 (neww) DARTH Mods

Loose your soldering gun.

you sir are an inspiration to my love of LEDS...you are also the bane of my other half's bank accounts existence..lol

I started a few weeks ago on the LEDS for my bike. Unfortunately she has been a clever girl and has been very difficult for me. I am not a good soldering person so i went with butt connectors. Now my back lights dont display red bc i think the connector didn't get a good contact. Now to tear the bike back apart and redo all the wiring and learn to solder better. Also had issues with LED strips sticking where i wanted them so i used hot glue...mostly worked....except that one strip to light up the radiator fan which promptly melted after a 30 minute ride.

There are wonderful products made by 3M and others that tap your existing wiring harness without cutting, stripping, soldering, and God forbid, putting black tape on your wiring harness.:lecturef_smilie:
 
Oh I've learned a lot since starting this project. I've taught myself how to solder the wires together, I did give up an have a company solder wire leads to my strips and have jst connectors and then bought those connectors to solder onto my "wire bus harness " which runs down both sides of the bike and the connectors allow each plastic panel to be removed and the jst connectors unplugged so they come away cleanly. I also striped the over spray off the back side of the panels where the leds were going, used 120 grit sand paper to slightly rough up the surface and 3m adhesive promoter. Those leds aren't coming off ever again :)
Now if I could solve my controller issues I'd be good. Remote doesn't like to send signal to the controller or the controller doesn't like hearing it. Replaced batteries in remote didn't help, next step is shortening power leads from battery to controller and see if that helps.
 
Stunning! I'm a huge fan of LEDs and your theme rocks!

Of course, my avatar doesn't really care for it though. :doorag:
 
Oh I've learned a lot since starting this project. I've taught myself how to solder the wires together, I did give up an have a company solder wire leads to my strips and have jst connectors and then bought those connectors to solder onto my "wire bus harness " which runs down both sides of the bike and the connectors allow each plastic panel to be removed and the jst connectors unplugged so they come away cleanly. I also striped the over spray off the back side of the panels where the leds were going, used 120 grit sand paper to slightly rough up the surface and 3m adhesive promoter. Those leds aren't coming off ever again :)
Now if I could solve my controller issues I'd be good. Remote doesn't like to send signal to the controller or the controller doesn't like hearing it. Replaced batteries in remote didn't help, next step is shortening power leads from battery to controller and see if that helps.

Hummm.... Some of the remotes HAVE been known to be DOA. I know that you know to eliminate as many variables as possible. If it is easy, pull the controller... Hook it straight to a 12v battery, connect a couple of LEDs to the controller, then try the remote. That's as simple as it gets. If it fails... Take it from there....
 
Ok... Last mod done today. I wanted a 52mm round clock/thermometer combo to go in the hole where the fuel gauge is. But alas.... I cannot find one. So... I found a rectangular one. I mounted it in a small plastic project box and away we go.....

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Videos

[video]http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z402/CorporateGreen/Darth2014%20Mods/F2613550-3767-49AF-81EF-D5E8FB5B2B61.mp4[/video]

[video]http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z402/CorporateGreen/Darth2014%20Mods/ED2D1337-FD5C-4CC6-9BBD-980A229D86E0.mp4[/video]

[video]http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z402/CorporateGreen/Darth2014%20Mods/60836F7A-1426-4430-A521-E543861F7B33.mp4[/video]

[video]http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z402/CorporateGreen/Darth2014%20Mods/0FBE0DC4-97A7-4150-BF51-C4C56223EC9C.mp4[/video]

[video]http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z402/CorporateGreen/Darth2014%20Mods/06AB6D33-92A9-437F-A07B-28B1B03EAAB5.mp4[/video]

[video]http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z402/CorporateGreen/Darth2014%20Mods/3B34114C-4F37-4A20-9B77-F59BD72A13E5.mp4[/video]
 
Connectors

I had a PM asking about what type connectors I use for all of the lights. The answer is- is depends :)

It depends on the electrical load, the stress the connector will undergo, and a few other things.

There are SEVERAL things happening on the frunk.
  1. RGB lights matching the Zone2 upper level LEDs
  2. Turn Signals in the air scoops
  3. White DRLS in the air scoops
  4. Lighted SpyderIchthus emblem in the front middle of the lid
  5. Lights in the interior of the frunk
  6. High Beam 'light the sides of the highway' assist LEDs.

To do all of that, I added several connectors so the lights could remain on the frunk if it is removed.

This is the frunk side of the connectors-
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This is the bike side--
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And this is with the two mated and ready to go--
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The grey square one that says RGB is a Deutsch type connector-- http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&ke...vptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_90hp4yfikv_b

They are rugged and highly water and dirt proof. It takes a bit to figure out how to assemble them, but once you get the hang of it, it's easy.

The one that looks more like a 4 pin trailer connector is just that. I used it for the higher current that the high beam assist lights draw. It is a bit of overkill, but I'm set for and future super burn your retinas lights :)
 
I've had a few emails and FB PMs with questions. I'm traveling so I don't have all of the answers with me......

But from the questions, I decided to go ahead and post a pic that previously I said I didn't want to post. I'm not really happy at the organization as you see it in the pic. It was in process, and I'm leaving room for one more controller. AND, I made them where they each are removable for maintenance. The larger unit in the lower left is the WiFi hot spot device. With it, I can use the iPhone app to controll the lights within about a 300' radius. The hotspot is USB powered so I installed a 12vdc - 5vdc USB power converter (hardwired). It has a spare USB 2amp outlet so I've set it up for the future.

Here's all of the LED controllers....
C69ED278-200E-4D8A-BBEC-76808565D07F.jpg


All of the wires enter and exit from the upper left of the saddlebag. I drilled about a 3/4" hole there.It's exposure to wet is very low. This shot does give a good view of the while LED illuminating the bag.


Thanks Phil!
Project has begun...
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Man I would need to see your Spyder in person and take tons of pics. I would love to be able to do half of what you have done to our Spyder. Some of your stuff is way over my head. Look great!
 
Man I would need to see your Spyder in person and take tons of pics. I would love to be able to do half of what you have done to our Spyder. Some of your stuff is way over my head. Look great!

Thanks so much! Darth and Psycho (old Darth) will be at Spyderfest 2015!
 
LOVE it RevJVegas!! I'd love to see it in person if you find your way north on 59 :)
Had to rush to put all the plastic back on so we could take it to LA for Thanksgiving.
I'll be putting her back up on the rack after xmas so I can finish what I started...adding the RGB, driving LED's etc. But it worked great with the existing single color LED's I have on it now. I really like how the isolator works; now there's no worry of killing the starter battery.
Need to get it wrapped up in time for the Spyder's on the Bayou event in March, and also make it to SF in April.

I'll let you know once I get to a "done" point ;), then maybe we should see about getting a few of the other H-town ryders together for an evening Sonic run or something.
 
iPAD Mini

I've had my phone mounted to my Providence power unit for as long as New Darth has been around. But seeing The navi has been difficult on the small screen. Enter the iPad Mini.

There were several options for mounting it, including putting IT on the Providence power unit. But after playing with several locations, this is where I settled in. Right now it uses a RAM ball that has a place for a screw (as you can see). I replaced the stock screw with a longer one.
More comments below....

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The power for the mini comes from a USB outlet behind it. Like many, I removed the analog guages. You can see my voltage/wattage/current draw/ amp hours meter on the right. Behine the mini, I installed a standard cigarette lighter outlet, and then plugged in a 2 USB outlet. Works great.

The ONLY issue is that all of the weight of the mini is held in place by a single bolt. Very likely, I'm going to fab a small additional support just fior comfort and safety.

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Phil, love all the mods to the new DARTH......they look great..:2thumbs:...looking forward to anymore that you come up with...:clap:
 
Phil, I see you still left the analog gas gauge in the dash.

I also removed that one and used the hole for a RAM mount that is very secure!

In this video I show how I did the RAM mount. FYI this was Stevedfive's idea I just elaborated on it :)


Bob
 
A++ Bob! VERY nicely done and reported!!

I AM going to take out the analog and put my 12v outlet in its place. That way my lightning power cord will disapear behind the mini. BUT... I really like what you did too!
 
Thanks so much!!

I wanted to put a note here to bump this thread. I had SO many ask questions about Darth and how we did the lighting and other mods. Feel free to share this thread. My goal is to help educate and show what can be done.

I'll do the same on Bobbie's bike, Psycho (being remaned soon...).
 
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