Park brake

[FalconAF]

My 8-week old 2018 RTL parking brake wouldn't release for the first time 2 days ago in a parking lot. It finally released after turning off/on the key and recycling through the digital dash startup 4 times. I already had an appointment scheduled for yesterday at my dealer for the 3000 miles service and mentioned it to them. They did the service and told me they were ordering a new parking brake motor under warranty. If it arrives before my road trip in a few weeks it will be replaced before the trip. In any case I'll be carrying 2 of the 12mm open end wrenches and a couple small wheel chocks with me from now on. Thanks for that info. So far, it hasn't happened again, but...… ray:

Quick question about this -> "The brake is located on the muffler side, can't miss it (2) 12mm nuts on a cable mounted on a steel bracket. Loosen the front nut first, then the cable mechanism will slide off the holding bracket. Bingo instant unfreeze."

What happens when "...the cable mechanism will slide off the holding bracket."? Is it still attached to the bike? Can I just ride with it that way after "loosening the front nut"? Or is something hanging down I need to secure after the "slide off the holding bracket" thing? Are parts gonna fall off if I don't? I have no clue right now.

 

[cptjam]

Rick, you could put the cable right back in its holder, just leave the end disconnected. I can show you the next time I see you. Joe

 

[FalconAF]

OK, I crawled on my garage floor (I'm really getting too old for that kinda stuff ) and took a look. So are you saying that I would loosen the front nut first, THEN the back nut ALSO, then just slide the cable out of the caliper (towards the front of the bike), then just retighten both the nuts without the cable itself in the caliper anymore?

If that's it, in an "emergency" I could probably do that without setting my RT on fire or something. No guarantees, but probably....

 

[oldguyinTX]

Spoke with my dealer yesterday. My parking brake problem is the motor with the pulley on it that moves the parking brake cable. He also told me that he had another 2017 RTS SE6 in his shop with the exact same problem that needed the exact same part. Anybody seeing a trend here?

 

[Bigmo]

When your parking brake fails and just blink, check the Fault Code, under Setting. If you see U0128, before doing anything else, open the seat and make sure the seat sensor cable is plugged in properly. This exact thing happen to me 2 days ago and it was the seat sensor somehow being unplugged (I know why, but I'll pass on that, no not me). Code U0128 states that a seat sensor wire may have been cut off or disconnected. among other things. I called 3 dealer for help, they had no idea. But keeping 2 12mm wrenches is not a bad idea.

 

[h0gr1der]

Mine is doing this exact same thing with code U0128, corrects itself later. The switch is good because the bike doesn't beep when I try to take off, indicating it got the release signal. I suspect the parking brake motor. I'm trying something, applying the parking brake without putting a lot of pressure on the brake pedal. I wonder if pushing the brake firmly while applying the parking brake sets the pads too firmly for the low torque motor to release. We'll see.

 

[Marr]

Had mine back for for a little over a week now. Everything seems to be working great. I’ve put almost 900 miles on it already, ( had to make for lost time). Every time I hit the ebrake switch to unlock it now, I say a little prayer. 9

 

[Bikerman]

Hello everybody. I recently experienced the non releasing parking brake on my 2016 RTL. No codes just warning light flashing or just lit up. Luckily while in my garage. Did the cable disconnect thing at the rear disc brake. Almost contacted the dealer. Then I remembered reading about properly adjusting the parking brake cable and not making it too tight. Took of all the required Tupperware and exposed the actuator which was locked in the on position. Tried pulling the inner cable but it would not release. So I undid the bolt that holds the cable wheel with the large gear that meshes with the small gear on the actuator. Tried to move the small sprocket on the actuator by hand but it would not move. I turned the ignition on and pressed the parking brake switch and the actuator gear started to turn and I could stop it by pushing down on the switch at the bottom of the actuator. So no problem with the actuator or both switches. Put everything back together and re-attached the cable at the rear brake but left the adjustment as slack as is possible. The brake works fine you cannot move the bike when it is engaged. The actuator sounds like it is not working so hard and the lever is not pulled so far forward. This may not be a fix for every parking brake problem but I have to wonder how many actuators etc. have been replaced because the parking brake is adjusted too tight.

 

[Eckhard]

This electric brake is too unreliable having failed twice on me in 2 years of ownership. The first time was at home and it wouldn't release. I removed and cleaned the switch contacts to make it work for a while. The second time it failed in the released position on the road and I had to put a rock behind the wheel to prevent it from rolling away. Embarrassing to say the least.

I would like to ditch this electric brake BS because I can't afford to be stranded on the road and I can't afford to pay the gentlemen at Can AM to fix and or replace exorbitantly priced parts. I would like to get a manual activation system. Good enough for Dodge trucks good enough for a summer toy.

The RS and RSS models had a pedal on the left side to set the parking brake and I would like to know if this can be fitted to my RT. Anyone done it yet or is this the wrong forum to ask this question?

 

[Arachnerds]

Arachnerds

We are new to the world of Spyders, just having bought a sweet 2011 RTL a couple of weeks ago. Woohoo!!! I never seemed able to get the parking brake engaged or disengaged but my hubs could do it almost every time. After even mentioning it to the dealer, who came up with a few of the same ideas as some mentioned here plus cycling the motor a few times by hand which has worked on others, hubs and I finally figured out why he could do it and I couldn't. It was the way in which he was doing a quick press-and-release on the button vs. the way I was doing more of a press and hold (waiting for the light to stop flashing). Well, problem FIXED! Now I've had absolutely NO problem getting it on or off.